Changing sand in Hayward filter question

[Splaker]

Good questions. So I use strips (I know, not exactly scientific) but have usually had very clear water over the 8 years I've owned this pool. It is a fresh water pool. I usually add Chlorine pucks to the skimmer. I shock once per week with two 450 gram pouches of shock distributed by scattering the granules carefully into the deep end. Keep in mind that I am in Canada and our pool season is barely underway. I opened it two weeks ago (when the weather was still chilly) so we haven't even used it yet. Right now the pump is turned off as the suction to the pump was so low/poor, I was afraid I'd damage the pump (with my luck...)

I did get a test done today at my LPS - this is what they came up with:

 

[proavia]

As mentioned several times in your other thread - you have algae.
Test strips and pool store testing have proven to be unreliable and inaccurate.

If your filter is clogging up that quickly, it isn't a filtering issue it's a chemistry issue.
Even if thise LPS results were to be believable, your FC is too low for your CYA.
FC/CYA Levels

You need a reliable test kit
Test Kits Compared
Once you have one, do a OCLT
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Most probably you will need to SLAM
SLAM Process

EDIT - I see a moderator merged your two threads. Will be easier to keep track of it all in one place.

 

[Splaker]

One of the main reasons I've figured it's mechanical is because of the amount of problems I've had with this pool over the last 18 months. We lost a pool season last year before we finally found the leak.

I am glad to read your posst because it seems to me that these procedures you suggest are not expensive or overly complicated. It's pretty crazy to think that algae build up can slow down the suction like that. So should I also do a deep clean of my filter? I've never performed that. My water was pretty dirty when I opened the pool this year. We had VERY high water levels in the pool this year (due to a lot of snow in March followed by rains in April). I drained off a lot of it with a submersible pump.

I am going to buy the test kit today and work on these procedures you've recommended. Hope they work!

Thanks.

 

[Splaker]

Another of the reasons I figured it is not an algae issue is because, although the water is murky, it's blue. I figured water with high concentration of algae is green.

 

[proavia]

Fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.
This assists us in providing help specific to your pool without having to ask you each time.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/account/signature

Murky water and a filter clogging up quickly is a classic sign of algae.
I don't know why you continue to think it's a mechanical issue.
You have nowhere near enough chlorine in your pool water.

Get that test kit ordered ASAP.
Either a Taylor K-2006C (yes, the 'C' is important) locally - or TF-Pro sent to an address close to the US/Canadian border and drive across to pick it up.

Read thru all the links posted in previous message above.

 

[Splaker]

I'm not insisting it's mechanical. Just surprised. I'm learning as I go along. I looked into ordering the Taylor 2006 kit.. TF kits don't ship to Canada. To bad because I just had my sister up here visiting from the US and could have had her bring one.

Anyhow I will add the equipment list shortly to my signature. I know the names but not the specific models.

 

[mknauss]

TF kits don't ship to Canada.

As Gene stated, if you are anywhere near the US border, you can ship a kit to a mail drop and drive over the border to pick it up. Costs a few dollars.

 

[Splaker]

4 hour+ round trip... not interested. That's a good day with light traffic. often 5+

 

[Splaker]

Fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.
This assists us in providing help specific to your pool without having to ask you each time.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/account/signature

Murky water and a filter clogging up quickly is a classic sign of algae.
I don't know why you continue to think it's a mechanical issue.
You have nowhere near enough chlorine in your pool water.

Get that test kit ordered ASAP.
Either a Taylor K-2006C (yes, the 'C' is important) locally - or TF-Pro sent to an address close to the US/Canadian border and drive across to pick it up.

Read thru all the links posted in previous message above.

My signature info is there.. hope I got all pertinent info!

 

[reggiehammond]

Another of the reasons I figured it is not an algae issue is because, although the water is murky, it's blue. I figured water with high concentration of algae is green.

Murky is algae. There’s different types of algae and different types require different amounts to gain color.

The good news is - your pool is not far gone - it’d be a simple SLAM procedure to get you back in order.
It’ll require the right testing tools - specifically the FAS-DPD chlorine test.

With the right tools, pool care can be really easy. I promise. No more lost swim seasons!

 

[Splaker]

Murky is algae. There’s different types of algae and different types require different amounts to gain color.

The good news is - your pool is not far gone - it’d be a simple SLAM procedure to get you back in order.
It’ll require the right testing tools - specifically the FAS-DPD chlorine test.

With the right tools, pool care can be really easy. I promise. No more lost swim seasons!

I bought my kit! Got the Taylor. I'll be testing this evening!

Will update later.

 

[Splaker]

As mentioned several times in your other thread - you have algae.
Test strips and pool store testing have proven to be unreliable and inaccurate.

If your filter is clogging up that quickly, it isn't a filtering issue it's a chemistry issue.
Even if thise LPS results were to be believable, your FC is too low for your CYA.
FC/CYA Levels

You need a reliable test kit
Test Kits Compared
Once you have one, do a OCLT
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Most probably you will need to SLAM
SLAM Process

EDIT - I see a moderator merged your two threads. Will be easier to keep track of it all in one place.

Just re-reading this and watched the OCLT vid, and it says that if there is visible signs of algae (as there is) then the OCLT isn't necessary. A SLAM is required. Should I wait til dusk to test my water (I am on EST here) - that about 4+ hours from now. I've not added chlorine in days and they system isn't running.

 

[Splaker]

I didn't have a chance to test last night - will be doing so this morning or early PM.

What is the ideal time in the day to start a SLAM? I know the sun can really eat up FC so should I wait until this evening?

On a positive note, I got the system running last night and noticed that I pump was able to maintain its prime. I was surprised. I did do a goo backwash yesterday evening. I BW and rinsed a bit longer than normal. 2 minutes for each. I suppose it was in need of the BW.

I also vacuumed the bottom as lots of stuff has blow in over the past few days with the breezy weather we've had (lots of pollen).

 

[ajw22]

Anytime is the right time to begin the SLAM Process.

If you need to do the SLAM Process then sooner is better then later. The algae will keep on replicating until you eradicate it.

 

[proavia]

Signature looks good - just add what test kit you are using.
You will need a test kit that has at least the FAS-DPD test to do a SLAM.

As far as the OCLT, I recommended you do that because it didn't seem you were quite convinced you had an algae issue. But since you said you have visible algae, it isn't needed to confirm the need to SLAM. You will be doing an OCLT toward the end of your SLAM though.

 

[Splaker]

So Igot my readings - crossing fingers I did it right!

FC - 0
PH - 7.4
TA - 48
CH 100 (or 110?)
CYA - ? (the black dot inside of the small Taylor test tube did not disappear from view, which it was supposed to as I mixed the reagent) - my LPS results should similar conclusion - 17 PPM

So should I just go ahead and start adding liquid chlorine? When you don't have any CYA won't that chlorine just get eaten up quickly?
If I am adding, should I simply track what I add then test? I have a total of 30 Litres of liquid chlorine.

Any other steps?

 

[ajw22]

How did you get a TA of 48?

Add 5 ppm of liquid chlorine daily. Test daily and add more as necessary.

Get your CYA/stabilizer into the water. 30-40 ppm.

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Splaker]

TA:
1. I filled the large tube to 25ML with pool sample
2. Added 2 drops of R-0007 and swirled
3. Added 5 drops of R-0008 and swirled
4. Added R-0009 dropwise, swirling and counting after each drop until color went from green to red
5. Multiplied x 10

I will do it again in case I messed this up...

How do I calculate ppm? My pool is about 20K gal. (80Kish Litres)

 

[ajw22]

TA:
1. I filled the large tube to 25ML with pool sample
2. Added 2 drops of R-0007 and swirled
3. Added 5 drops of R-0008 and swirled
4. Added R-0009 dropwise, swirling and counting after each drop until color went from green to red
5. Multiplied x 10

With multiplying by 10 how do you end up with an answer of 48?

How do I calculate ppm? My pool is about 20K gal. (80Kish Litres)

PoolMath

Effects of Adding function.

 

[Splaker]

You're right - I am going to do the TA again.. probably brain fart... got a million things going on at the house!

thanks