Hey y’all, I’m looking to purchase an automatic pool water tester. I have narrowed it down to crystal water monitor and the water guru sense 2. I’m leaning toward crystal water because the water guru sense 2 cassette refills only come with one updated cassette and two of the older version. I think that’s ridiculous. I know most people don’t like automatic water testers, and prefer the manual method, but I have a very hard time reading them and I’m not paying my pool guy anymore cause I don’t think he’s doing a good job. Please don’t recommend I find a new pool guy because I’d rather do it myself. Does anyone have either of the two mentioned testers and prefer one to the other? Looking for all pros and cons
Automatic Pool Water Tester
- Thread starter JennDub
- Start date
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,775
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
What tests are you having a hard time with?
If its ph (which should be the only color matching test you use) you can save yourself some coin & just get an apera ph meter. You’ll still need to check it against the phenol red test regularly & keep it calibrated.
The other tests from the kits we recommend all have a definite endpoint that is very easy to see even if you’re colorblind.
Test Kits Compared
If its ph (which should be the only color matching test you use) you can save yourself some coin & just get an apera ph meter. You’ll still need to check it against the phenol red test regularly & keep it calibrated.
The other tests from the kits we recommend all have a definite endpoint that is very easy to see even if you’re colorblind.
Test Kits Compared
If budget is not a main consideration look up photometer for pool water testing. These units can do all the manual tests and do not rely on colour eyesight. They will give a digital number instead.
Photometers, such as the colorQ have proven time and time again to be off considerably. We have been watching them for 17 (?) years and hundreds if not thousands of members have repeated the same thing eventually. The digital reading is a joke whether it's before or after the decimal point. Not only can it not read to .XX FC, .0X FC has never saved anyone. Heck. .X FC barely matters.
Here is Leslie's stated inaccuracy for their Accublue system.
Up to 50% off when 'in range'. At times, being 25% high, as is possible, you'd dose one way. If 25% low, as possible, you'd dose the other way. Talk about 'Dump and Pray'.
None of the electronic systems are very reliable.
The TF-100 kit is much easier to read than all the 5in1 test kits you get at Walmart.
The issue is price and calibration. Sorry, I should have qualified the answer better. I am talking about a proper lab-grade photometer, not a domestic item. These require annual calibration and would cost about $1500.00
Lab grade equipment is just entirely unnecessary when anyone can be a pro with the drop tests after 10 tries.
People themselves are the problem not wanting to get over that *entirely reasonable* learning curve.
I, myself, was one of them. I was all excited my fancy kit came in the mail and the full instruction card looked like rocket science, so the kit sat on the work bench for weeks. When I finally worked up the gusto to try, I facepalmed HARD that steps such as 'fill vial to 10 ml', 'add 5 drops of X' and 'swirl' seemed too difficult.
Completely agree. However where eyesight is an issue (looks in mirror) or colour blindness is actual. Then it may be there are few alternatives. 20 years ago I would be able to complete a test using a colour comparator faster and with as much accuracy as the best photometer. Today, unfortunately, age is not helping my eyesight, and I would struggle.
Again. You're your own worst enemy. I got you.
Orange is low and purplish is high. The price of beer remains unchanged when its 7.4 or 7.6.
7.8 and 7.2 mean it *might* be time to adjust next time, but also might not, and definitely not this time.
The pH is the only color comparison done with the Taylor test kit. All the rest change from pink to clear, red to blue, etc.Again. You're your own worst enemy. I got you.
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It’s just a little intimidating to me. What if I’m reading the color wrong? Just scary that’s all.
The one we use is:
Colorimeter | Water Analysis | MD 100 | Lovibond
Ideal for field testing, the MD 100 is an accurate, easy to use, rugged and waterproof colorimeter. The instrument comes in many versions that test for a variety of parameters. Find out more today.
www.lovibond.com
This photometer uses test methods that comply with the Standard Methods of Examination of Water and Waste Water.
Another alternative is Palintest. These two have a mixed history as Dr Palin worked for both companies.
You can’t read it wrong, pH is either orange or purple. Believe the advice that the Taylor kits don’t use color matching, except for the above listed pH test.
You’ll be able to read the electronic ones but they won’t be accurate anyway so it doesn’t matter much.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,775
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Here’s all the actual tests being performed- see for yourself
Again. I was there myself. And I was an idiot for doubting myself. I mean. I'm still an idiot. But for new and improved reasons.
*actual events that transpired
New to testing
You can get 10 years worth of R-0014 phenol red reagent for the cost of a decent pH meter. I'm not attacking meters or anyone who uses them but I think that promoting their use might give new users the wrong impression about how quick and easy the pH test is. Once you accept that your results are not going to be a million percent accurate with a subjective test like the phenol red, you're free. There's a wide range of acceptable pH and the phenol red test is more than sufficient to stay in that range.
If you do not have visual issues preventing the use of a colourmetric comparator, then they are the way to go. Yes, there is a period of adjustment as you learn to use the kit. However, in swimming pools, we are doing bucket chemistry. If your reading is out a bit, it won't matter too much e.g. read 7.8 instead of 7.4, and will be picked up a test or two down the line.
If, on the other hand, you do have visual issues preventing the use of a comparator, then a lab-grade photometer will work and, unlike the domestic units, be reliable if regularly calibrated.
If, on the other hand, you do have visual issues preventing the use of a comparator, then a lab-grade photometer will work and, unlike the domestic units, be reliable if regularly calibrated.