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So new pebble plaster, fc=4 Ph=7.5 TA=130 CH=260 I dropped ph to 7.2 and turned on the waterfalls to get TA down. They have a puck floater in pool which I don’t mind for now until I get everything balanced. When should I add conditioner? I will use liquid, yes it costs more but I don’t...

The builder did not say anything about brushing until start up, but I am reading that I should be brushing from fill up. The issue is the EQ is not running and there are not chemicals as start up is tomorrow?

So we are finally getting to plaster on Thursday, I’m in the pool with a shop vac looking for an issues and I found three spots on one of the steps with rust. This isn’t a surface thing, this looks like it’s leaching from the rebar or a rebar tie. What’s the proper fix?

So we have gotten through a lot of issues,like seriously having to re-do almost everything 2-3x. So clean up crew comes to get the pool ready, pre plaster clean up. They pull the protective covers off the lights that have been covered in shotcrete and I notice one light is tilted up 15-20...

So the latest issue uncovered in my not so fun pool build. We noticed this small gap between the pillar and the second step into the pool Is very awkward and I think it’s going to become an algae farm. We noticed it after shotcrete a couple months ago but hav been dealing with so many other...

So we are looking to have the pool shell shot on Thursday. I noticed that we will be getting down to 32 a few days later. I read that may be too cold for Shotcrete or watercuring if it gets under 40 degree. Do we need to get a large blue tarp and cover the pool and put a small space heater...

So plumbing finished today, they pressurized the lines to 40 psi. Getting a consistent drip at the filter clamp and a little water at the top of the Hayward cartridge filter. Plumber tells me they sometimes do this? what? My Jandy never leakedm I check the clamp nut and it’s at spec @ 150...

So we are in contract for a new build. The PB has the electric sub come to my house and he tells me with a heatpump and long run, we need 1” conduit and 4 gauge wire. Pb call me today and tells me the electric will cost $1200 more. I’m like what, we signed a contract already, he tells me well...

We are doing a 33x15 rectangular pool, 3hp vs pump, right now the PB has 2” return and 2” suction lines. Is it worth going to 2.5” for $500? Any pro/con? Also I is there any benefit to having the skimmer in the middle of the pool or off to one side? Right now the skimmer Is 1/3 of the length...

Going a a Traditional 33x15 rectangular pool, 3-6’, no spa. Travertine deck, pebblesheen, Mediterranean with glass. Large baja step 7’ @ 18”. They do Hayward equipment, lots of PB do in AZ I found out. 2.7hp VS pump, 525 cartridge filter, automation, SWG for up to 40k gallons, AquaCA SQ166...

I can’t believe the hard sell on the ozone UV vs Salt. I am told the water is so hard in AZ and the salt will make the tile covered in calcium. It will eat up my travertine deck. They said if I do salt there is no warranty on the travertine, although, I am not really sure what there is to go...

Getting close to signing a contract anyone have experience with these? Realistically what’s the drop in water temp. Being in AZ I really don’t want 93 degree pool water in the summer, 82-85 would be nice when it’s 115 outside. Any issues with these things? Just trying to decide is the...

So we are embarking on our second pool build. Prior pool was 11k gallons, with spa, 2.5” returns, 3” suction, Jandy 2.7hp VS pump. We are only doing a pool this time, but will have 2 24” sheer decent water features on the back wall. the pool will be 17,500 gallons, 2” return, 2.5” suction...

I had a heater on my CA pool, but only used it for the spa and early in the season to bump up from 76-80. Just seems in AZ my main concern will be keeping the water cool. I am not doing a spa this time rarely used the one in CA.

So I moved a couple months ago from So. CA, put in a pool there back in 2016. Looking to do it again here. So things I learned, it’s not cheaper here, lol. First quote was $86k for a relatively basic pool, surface area about 430 sf. No spa, 3-5ft 30x 12. With a 9x7 Baja shelf. much higher...

So I can’t figure out what this is. Been getting worse over the past 5 years. I figure it was calcium carbonate, so I tried a cut mixture of Muriatic acid and water 4/1, got fizzing for a minute in a couple places but it’s still there. I read calcium silicant won’t be affected by acid. I am...

Moving to AZ, need to find a good builder, thanks for any recs!

So I noticed some water on the pad under my pump today, whats the most common issue? Assuming the O ring gasket between the wethead and the motor head? It’s not making noise so I assume it’s not the shaft seal?

So my aqualink is telling me the salt is at 4700ppm, my Taylor test kit says 3800PPM. this is after I cleaned the sensor on the salt cell, before cleaning it’s was reading low salt at 1700ppm? cell is coming up on 5 years old.

My cell is 5 years old in August, I cleaned the cell months ago, no corrosion on the plates, I get low salt on my system, aqua link says 1800 ppm, but me old school test states 3400ppm. Also code 144. Is the cell toast?

So I rarely use the heater, last time was a year ago, turned on pool heat yesterday, I heard the pump speed up but the heater did not fire up. When to look at the heater control panel, it’s dead, no display. No breakers tripped, any first suggestion? Oh, it’s only 5 years old.

So I can’t see any code on the board display, is there a trick to display the error code?

so gonna have one replaced, installer is stating the water level does not need to be lowered? wont water get stuck in the conduit this way? I mean I guess the light unit is sealed. Oh and of course jandy no longer makes same unit. Awesome.

So I am out at the equipment, when to clean the face of the gauge, the entire gauge and stem just break off the filter body? WTH??? Are you kidding me? i assume this can be replace, the gauge that is.

so last night I noticed on of my LED lights flickering and going on and off and or not holding the correct color. The are 3 year, 2 months old. Assuming the light is toast and will need to be replaced?

So in SoCal we have been having a lot of rain. Tested pool today, FC is fine but I am getting low salt on my aqualink at 2200 ppm. Ph is 7.8, but the TA dropped to 40ppm. CH dropped to 425ppm from 600+ I assume from the rain. So my CSi is fine with TA @40 and ph @7.8 but is my TA too low...

Ran to tests today FC was 10ppm TA was at 50 PH was 7.8 CH was 650 Salt 2800 cYA 65 Csi -0.03 Temp 59 Just never had TA go below 60-70, odd. FC is high as I adjusted the salt cell %.

I have been struggling with CYA for 2 years. It seems no matter how much I put into the pool I am "ALWAYS" around 40-50PPM. Perhaps I am just stupid and can't get this test done correctly but it's the most unforgiving test I think we can run for our pools. My largest issue is with the test...

This has been going on for a few months, right at start up and shutdown I get this squeaking sound for about 2-3 seconds. Jandy is telling me it’s normal, I asked okay, then why did it not do this for the first 2years? Any thoughts?

FC= 7 to 8 Ph= 7.2-7.8, TA = 70 CH=460 Salt=3200 Csi= -0.01 to -0.6 (at 7.8 csi is -0.01, adding acid brings ph back and csi to -0.06) Note that my ph rise goes from 7.2-7.8 in a week, normal? Also should I still be bringing back to 7.2? If not, I will be adding acid 2x per week, should I...