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Not in your case. 2" plumbing is fine and can actually free up the pump allowing it to run more efficiently in some cases. Just keep an eye on the level to eliminate the prime issue and you'll be okay. As long as the pump has a full prime it isn't working too hard and can take whatever you're...

What are the time and air temp. readings on the mobi? If 12 noon and 0 degrees you lost communication. Either way I would google how to reconnect the mobi touch and try that. There might be an issue with the transceiver board. You can remove the cover to the antenna and observe the lights. There...

Not always

Gas pressure. If the gas valve opens and you smell gas you can rule out almost everything else. Can do a resistance test on the igniter. Cold it should be in-between 40-70 ohms. Other than that it sounds like a gas pressure issue. I haven't heard or seen an issue with the LT/LX for clogged...

The Mastertemp/Max-E-Therm heaters are only 84% efficient, peanuts. I think you need to step up to the big boy heater..... the ETi400 with it's whopping 96% efficiency ;)

To second what ps0303 stated, that isn't correct wiring for that heater. It looks to be leftover pool light cord which isn't UL listed for the power draw in your heater. You need to call them back and have them redo the supply wires correct as it can affect your warranty. Also that knock out is...

White is for the Ez-touch unless something changed recently. You can find the model number in the battery compartment.

As to your original question of checking the bypass and cleaning the filters I would have to assume they're talking about the pool filter not a filter in the heater, never heard of one except on high dollar efficient ones. As to the bypass, the Lxi has a bypass in the in/out header. Threads in...

@davedive, Yes, the manual has a excellent flow chart for troubleshooting. Need a multi-meter, follow the steps. No power or lights is an easy diagnose as it has to do with the low voltage side. Check the wire above the fuse, this is the 24v from the transformer which then goes through the...

The Ez-Touch and the PS4-PSL4 take two different wireless controllers. Is the front face sticker white or gray? Part # for the Ez-Touch is 520547 and the PS4-PSL4 is 522464.

The check valves you have are Ortega checks. They have gray bodies and a threaded on cap. It appears you have 2, one on the spa return line..... weird, and the other just out of the picture on the pool return side. I believe your problem is there. Probably just needs the diverter replaced. You...

All you need to do is check the orange/white 2 pin connector on the board. This is the 24v from the transformer. Might save you from taking apart the heater. it's located as plug #4 from left to right, can't miss it.

A couple of things to check. 1.) Return 3-way diverter seal is ripped. You can check this by pulling the diverter apart. Rare but I've seen it happen. 2.) Chlorinator or Polaris is plumbed in a way to allow return to the pool in spa mode. I've also seen this more times than I'd like to admit...

I don't think it's worth it if you don't have an automatic controller. There're some here that have figured out how to wire them up using an external control but to me that's too much trouble. You'll be okay with a check valve and partially opened diverter valve. If you want to get fancy, also...

If you have about 6-7 grand Pentair just introduced a 96% efficient heater called the ETi 400 that looks pretty good. If their Master Temp 400 version heats a typical spa in 30 minutes @ 84% efficient I can only imagine how fast this sucker would do it.

The heater connection at the Intellitouch control board are powered by the heater so if you don't get 24v there you probably popped the fuse in the heater. Follow the wire into the high voltage compartment, shut off the breakers first. Volts come from the heaters transformer to the fuse, the 2...

Yes, what ps0303 said. It's more than likely the thermal regulator. On the newer MasterTemp you can access the regulator from the front of the heater (where the pipes are). There should be 3-4 3/8" screws holding the access panel to the cabinet. Once this is removed the regulator is behind the 4...

Easy answer, install a check valve on the main spa return line and leave the line partially open to naturally flow to the spa when the pool is circulating and the check valve stops the siphoning when the pool shuts off. Several options available but most are dependent on what type of control...

You basically have 2 options here. The valve will accept 2.5" fittings around the outside so you'll need to cut the new 90 off in order to glue a 2.5" on the valve. 1) a 2.5" 90 with a 2" reducer bushing or 2) a 2.5" coupling/ 2" reducer and a 2" street 90. Either way it's going to be close.

Quad 60 is more than enough for a 12k pool. You'll want a backwash valve otherwise you can be stuck cleaning it every couple of days if things get messy in the pool. IMO it's worth the money. FYI you'll need a sand valve not a DE for the Quad filter as well due to the plumbing being comparable...

Just so I understand you correctly....... The pump used to be a VS pump that a single speed motor of 2HP was replaced? If this is correct please note that VS pumps on Pentair ystems are wired to the breaker not the relay. If your VS pump is no longer a VS but a single speed 2HP you need to...

No, you do not gain efficiency by bypassing flow to the heater. I tested it out at a friends pool and when we timed it we actually lost efficiency when we ran his VS at low speed 1250. It took almost 1.5 times as long to reach max temp versus max rpm 3450

Seal and possibly melted impeller but as Conrad said if it's not leaking you should be good.

Unless they've figured out the issue don't waste your money on the controller. There's an issue with not being able to break the neutral line on the lights and it knocks them out of sync. This was as of a couple years ago. This is more of an FYI for future searches as you have Pentair automation...

You should be able to use #172855 Strainer Air Vent. Not sure which one you had originally but this one will work. GL!

Your timer is grounded via the enclosure not the actual timer mech. no issue there. The ground bar is beside the GFCI and it appears the larger green wire is from the supply conduit on the far left. Not much of an idea what the capacitor (if that's what it is) is for. Appears to be wired to the...

Short answer, yes you have the wrong valve. How to correct it depends on which valve you have. Can you see anything like "SM-20 or High Flow" or is it a piston type push/pull valve?

Is a problem, needs to be fixed. Have you run the heater? My bet is a broken internal bypass. Then the barb on the plunger snaps it rattles around till it wallers out a spot big enough to allow it to escape. If you know how to service the thermal regulator it should be clear if the bypass is...

Yes, what ps0303 said. It can be a long wait for someone to pick up but worth it. Pentair will send a warranty station to check it out. - - - Updated - - - I'm sorry, I misread your original post. Do you ever feel heat from the exhaust of the heater or just cold air? If no heat you can check...

Please don't listen to SAC, good lord dude and your a warranty station???? DO NOT RUN YOUR PUMP DRY! I've seen the result of the tremendous heat build-up on the seal that has caught fire and melted/burned down an entire equipment set. Please just let it die of natural causes. The reason all...