Intellitouch i9+3

[Arivlin]

Hello,

I'm hoping someone can help. Last week I had to change the manifold on my Sta+Rite heater, when I doing so I inadvertently caught the low voltage wires underneath while bolting. I noticed it when I smelled an electrical burn. I immediately shut off the breakers. The smell was more pronounced at the Intellitouch control panel. I have spliced the wires and don't get an reaction when I touch the "heater" button on the panel.

Further, I have tested where the low voltage wires connect to the back of the board with a multi-meter, and while I do get a reaction when the button is hit the voltage doesn't change. I'm assuming I may have burnt on of the relays soldered to the smaller circuit board, but before replacing that expensive unit I wanted to see if anyone had experience with that type of short, and any other things to check.

Thanks for anything you can contribute.

Best,
Alex

 

[Jimrahbe]

Alex,

Welcome to TFP... A great place to be...

I suspect you are correct about the PCB damage. I assume you checked the three or four circuit breakers in the upper right side of the main control panel???

Sorry, that is about the only thing that I can think of..

Jim R.

 

[xyz]

Are these the heater control wires? Is it a pair?

 

[Pool Clown]

Disconnect the heater wires from the Intellitouch board. You can just unplug the buss from the board. Put your test meter on the two pins on the board, set meter to continuity test. Heater turned on (on Intellitouch) you should have continuity, off, no continuity. If you have the appropriate continuity, disconnect the control wire at the heater, connect those two heater wires back to their original configuration, and attempt to operate the heater by it's own control. If heater behaves normally, check your control wire for short or open.

If heater connection at board will not open or close, may be board. How old is this?

 

[JoelFitz]

The heater connection at the Intellitouch control board are powered by the heater so if you don't get 24v there you probably popped the fuse in the heater. Follow the wire into the high voltage compartment, shut off the breakers first. Volts come from the heaters transformer to the fuse, the 2 wire com line from the Intellitouch then makes the connection across to the upside which goes to the heaters control board. The fuse is a 1.25A fast blow ( but any 1.25 will work)

 

[Arivlin]

Thanks for the responses.

@Pool Clown, the low voltage wires are held by set screws, and not a buss connector. They're the wires on the top board, bottom left, labeled "gas heater". Unless I'm looking at the wrong ones. It's just a red and black wire. I was testing voltage and only got point 006. I didn't check for continuity. However, when I pulled the wires and touched them to a different 24v output the heater panel lit up on the heater. The heater didn't fire but I assume that's because there was no temp control through that work around.

@JoelFitz I checked the fuse in the heater and it's all good. I checked the high voltage and the heater is getting the appropriate 120v to it. I see the control unit, and I have diagnosed via the light on that before, but that doesn't appear to function now. I assumed the low voltage came from the Intellitouch, but if not could I be dealing with a bad brain on the heater? The personality kit for the Intellitouch is over $1,000 so I certainly don't want to buy that and find out that's not the issue.

Thanks again for all of the help.

 

[Pool Clown]

Grab that "buss" that the wires are connected to, and pull straight off the board. There will be two pins sticking out of the board. There are your test points.

You can also check: either end of the fuse and the yellow wire with the white stripe to the left of the fuse (yellow wire). You should get low voltage there, 28-32V something like that. That will prove the xformer on the heater (power to the board).

 

[Arivlin]

Thanks for all the help everyone. @JoelFitz after reading your post I traced down the circuit to understand better how this all works and discovered that I actually blew the transformer itself. A $61 part and 10 minutes to fix it took care of everything. Thanks again, for you all saved me a lot of money!!!