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The gubbermint put a desalination project in Wrightsville Beach, NC for over 20 years. The water there went from being nasty, sulferous near undrinkable to very good. The plant began supplying the city of Wilmington with water at a better rate than what they could treat from the Cape Fear...

They didn't name this "The Deep End" for nothing:unsure:

I can see the quarter.....but with all the wind and rain I can't read the date......:laughblue:

The two main depleters of chlorine are sunlight and organics. While the cover kept the sunlight from reaching it, organics: pollen, airborne algae, dust, etc, is everywhere. So, yes you could already have an algae bloom started, even if you can't see it. But getting your chemistry right can...

Welcome to TFP! Adding enough CL will keep the algae in check, doing the other stuff simply adds to your costs and aggravation. I know that it seems like you HAVE TO DO SOMETHING! But it just adds to your frustration. Keep the bugs at bay and when you get your test kit you will have accurate...

Since no one else has mentioned it, using chlorine (sodium hypochlorite) is actually adding salt to your pool. The negative effects come not from the salt, but from not maintaining a proper ph balance. Maintaining your ph will eliminate the corrosion problems. Going to a salt water pool will...

Welcome to TFP! Since you will be on vacation for a week you can take the time to memorize the ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry! (it's in Pool School.) When you return you will know how to continue treating the pool. Size of the pool doesn't matter, it's all water chemistry. Size will determine...

My RJ30+ prefers a bit more salt than what the manufacturer claims. Test kit shows 3400, swg swg shows 3200 but won't function below that. It works well so I don't care.

Tex has probably hit the nail. Hitting the on/off switch resets the timer to start the generating process. It works on a percentage of duty cycle.

I switched to salt in my first pool (agv) in 2006 (or there about.) Moved to a new pool in 2018 and brought the swg with me. I bought a robot last year. Except for snagging leaves, crayfish, frogs and other critters (which happens regardless of the chlorination method) I spend about 10 minutes...

I run my vsp @ 200 watts continually and let the swg cycle itself. Then adjust the output percentage as needed to increase or decrease the Cl level in the pool. I'll make an adjustment every other week until it stabilizes during hot weather then start turning it back down in the fall. Easy.

I bought a CircuPool with a 1$ upgrade many years ago. They have given me great service and responded to every question. There is a difference in the next size up in the number of plates. It was a no brainer for me,

The schematic simply shows a 230vac differential without a neutral. It shouldn't matter if it were from one hot source or two. The 60hz vs 50 hz may make it hum a bit from resonance.

For a buck? Certainly! Bigger is better.

Because your input is half of what it needs, the output is also half. Salt detection is done by conductivity. It is seeing low voltage and interpreting it as low salt. Either change out the transformer or give it 230 volts. 240 is more common but is still within the the 10% safe allowance.

Without a test kit, you have no real basis to start with. Pool$tore numbers are suspect at best. Please do several things: Get a proper test kit so you can do your own testing while at the pool. Read the Pool School. 2-3 times. Read the ABC's of water chemistry. Understand the SLAM process...

Your RJ60 will cycle automatically by time. Simply adjust your output and let it run. I set my RJ30+ for 25% in the spring, 35% in the summer. Check the chemistry daily and adjust your output as you need more or less. Crystal clear water is embarrassingly easy the TFP way!

DON'T put zinc in your pool water, that's not how they are installed. As long as you watch your ph and alkalinity ( and that isn't too critical with vinyl) you shouldn't have a problem.

It is pretty common for equipment suppliers to blame failure on salt, while not mentioning that salt is just sodium and chlorine, the normal sanitizer used. As Mark noted, some of the aluminum components are unaffected. There are significant differences in performance between aluminum alloys...

I like my RJ30+, it actually outperforms its' ratings. The all-in-one design looks handy, but allow sufficient spacing and location to be able to see the controls. I retrofitted mine from an earlier pool to an existing equipment install. The Core35 would not have been an easy job.

My RJ30+ was doing the same thing, testing showed 3200. So I added two bags of salt.....everything is fine. Sometimes they like a little more salt.

Yes...but improbable. Other than installing a kwh submeter to see how much it is really running, do you have any ideas of how to track it?

Seems to be using around 3 per day

CYA is stable, it's summer so sun and clouds. 32K pool. No cover, everything is typical for summer. It's not like I haven't been doing this for a while. This is my second swg, second pool. Not much pool load other than sun and heat. People a couple hours a day.

Here's the specs: TC 5 CC 0 CYA 70 PH 7.2 Borates 25 Temp 88 Pump runs 24/7 @ 200 watts. Water is crystal clear. All last year I ran my swg at 65%. All was well. Started it off the same way this year, couldn't keep the CL under 18. Started dropping it, now at 15%. CL stable at 5...

Your experience is not unusual. There is a spider called -what else?- "orifice spider". They inhabit both gas and lp grills and in your case the pool heater. You were likely smelling the mercaptan that wasn't completely burned. Not unusual either but it does give you an indication that...

Reminds me of a neighbors' unplastered gunnite pool when I was growing up. Took weeks for my fingerprints and toeprints to grow back. You learned in a hurry to stay away from the walls. Bathing suits wouldn't last long, either.

I bought my RJ 30+ for a smaller pool, then moved it to this one (32K). My plan is to replace the cell when it dies. So far I keep it set on 60% 24/7, pump @ 200 watts. CL stays high (6-7) while I'm waiting for more sunny days to eat the CL. Works for me.

I'd just replace the cell. That's what I'll do when mine finally quits.

If you have an Ollie's, they have the lowest prices around here.