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Right I forgot about them neutralizing the acid with the soda ash... I'll up the generator to 40% and drop a cup of acid daily and see what happens.

total hardness 250 free chlorine 2 cc 0 cya 60 alkalinity, 120 ph 8.2 salts 3500 ppm water temps 72 I'll add in some calcium as it should be around 300 or 350 but doubt that's causing it. Only thing I can think of is the acid wash but I would expect that to drop ph not raise it. Ran it...

Maybe I have bad acid... but I've been pouring in about a gallon of acid per day for the past week. This morning, I literally poured 2 gallons of 34% acid into the pool, and am going to dump in another 3 gallons tonight to try to get this pool below 8.0 ph. Pool this morning... 8.2. Poured...

So decided to close this out after doing some math. Outside of the time, the pump runs fine. So if I run it at the minimum rpm of 650, I believe it draws as much power as a lightbulb. Running it at 16 hours a day, maybe would cost me 30 cents a day. So roughly I am looking at 9 dollars a...

.... I will look into that. Thank you.

Going to pickup a cal pump as its the same pump as the circupool at half the price, and buy a digital intermatic timer, that should keep the time in sync. I'll look into the relay as a good backup option.

checked it out and I run the risk of not getting it up, which if I know myself, I kinda don't need another house project. Checked the price for a drive for the intelliflo vs a entire new pump and can get a brand new non polaris pump for the cost of the drive. So going that way.

So I was running my swg at almost 100% and could not keep the chlorine up. I added cya, and now it runs at 30%… Cya level is most likely the culprit.

I posted a while back that my intelliflo vsp loses its internal clock whenever the power goes out for more than 10 seconds (it resets to 12:00). The issue is that there are times that my booster pump will wind up running when the pump is off due to the power reset (the booster pump runs off a...

From what I read and looked at it is, around 400ish. It's a little ridiculous to invest that into the pump. Thought it'd be a cheaper fix but oh well. It'll be the next homeowners headache.

The keypads maybe 150 bucks which is fine, if its the drive its around 700 which makes little sense.

Have a Intelliflo VSP who has that ridiculous clock reset when power out issue. I'm looking to find the part to fix/replace it but apparently have 2 options. Do I replace the Drive itself? (Believe part is 356880z), or the keypad assembly (believe its 357527Z). Dunno where this failed...

Thanks. Going that direction.

Pools 40 years old. I have buried lines that provide 240 at 20amp to the booster, pump, and heater. Also have a buried 14 awg line used to power one of the lights in the pool. There is conduit damage and I would like to replace the lines themselves (not pull new lines, just run new lines...

So thought I’d circle around about this. So what broke seemed to be the salt cell itself. They gave me a warranty discount for a replacement and the pools chugging along. thanks everybody. Just got a bit irritated about this, but stuff breaks from time to time.

Well I figure that something outside, sealed, will eventually go bad. I’ll call them today. Priced out a new one and it’s about 1500.

The route cause is primarily the coping used. Uneven, non uniform from the 70’s when free form rock was used. We reused it vs putting in all new coping stones.

That was what probably should have been done.. I'll make a note to snap some photos this week. Just a bunch of travel lately.

So earlier this year the circupool rj60 blew a fuse. Replaced the fuse twice and it continued to blow. 1) Called them up and they said I can fix it myself and they'll send me the part to replace for 50 dollars. 2) Replace the part and the device didn't recognize the cell. 3) Called and...

Had the pool resurfaced about 4 years ago and we’re just starting to have some of the coping concrete break up and was looking to patch it. Also a tiny piece of tile came off and looking to fix that too. 1) what is the type of concrete needed to patch it? 2) is it the same for the tile and...

Agreed with that. Thanks.

If the power goes out for any type of duration, most if not all pools in this area will be damaged as most don't winterize them to any degree.

The booster piping itself would have water in it but even if the booster is off, water is running through it. I would think that since the booster piping tends to be smaller in diameter and flexible, that they can take a little strain but would be applicable to becoming frozen also. Just my guess.

So ordered a heater which came today for that purpose (keeping the shed relatively warm). And my logic is if my pool heater breaks early... its cheaper to fix and repair than digging up half my yard to fix pipes. I am less concerned on that aspect. Have a bypass already plumbed in so worse...

Natural Gas Raypak Heater. Its inside a pool shed (its vented, plumped correctly, etc, no fear or worry about carbon monoxide or fire if its run for a long time). The rest of the pool equipment is in that shed also (filter, pump, booster for pool vac etc). Pool pump's a intelliflo variable...

Were expecting mid 20's to possibly 0 for about 5 days straight. I have a raypak heater attached to my pool. Should I turn it on and leave it on for that 5 day period? If yes, leave it on 24/7 (no issue with that personally). If not, should I turn it on to get the pool to something like...

I can open up the valves enough to ensure that water is flowing through all the equipment. The pool equipment itself is inside of a small hut we have for it. I may order a heat fan to blow warmish air in the hut for the next few days (again.. cheaper than replacing equipment). Again have...