Replacing wiring for pump, heater, booster, lights, etc.

Oct 14, 2015
167
Dallas
Pool Size
30000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Pools 40 years old. I have buried lines that provide 240 at 20amp to the booster, pump, and heater. Also have a buried 14 awg line used to power one of the lights in the pool. There is conduit damage and I would like to replace the lines themselves (not pull new lines, just run new lines through the attic). The switch to one of the pool lights is clear across the pool and doesn't have a neutral on it and I want to address that with a smart switch. I have a few options here and wanted some thoughts.

note: the pool equipment, minus the light, is connected via a Intermatic Dual Timer. The pool light has its own independent line run to it, but its a old no-neutral line.

1) I could add a subpanel to the pool area and carry a 8 awg, 40 amp line there (the draw on the pump, heater and booster's 16 amps which is in spec with a 20 amp line, but adding in a light and 120v outlet overthere, plus the long distance of the line (over 100 feet) would mean that 40 amp line should be applicable). From that subpanel split off a 30 amp line to power the intermatic dual timer which runs the equipment, and split off a 15 amp line to power the light and outlet.

2) I could pull a pair of lines (a 10 awg line for a 240-20 amp current (its about 150 feet away so have to increase the wire size from 12 awg to 10 awg to support the potential 20 amp load with the 20% overheat), and a separate 12awg line for the 125-15 amp for the pool light and the outlet, and add in gfci breakers to the panel. Pool equipment is powered by the intermatic, and the light would be the same setup as above.

The spa blower and the far away light I intend to leave on a dedicated circuit just for them.

The pool equipment would be in a shed.

My current equipment is a intelliflo variable speed, a PA 60 booster, a raypak gas heater, a salt water generator (all these on the 20 awg), a pool light on a 120, and a outlet for random stuff.

Thoughts? Would you just add 2 separate lines, or install an actual subpanel?
 
I would put in a 40 amp subpanel and additional CB's.

  • 20 amp 240V GFCI CB for Intelliflo pump + SWG
  • 20 amp 240V GFCI CB for PA 60 booster pump
  • 15 amp 240 or change to 120V CB for heater
  • 15 amp 120V GFCI CB for pool lights (you can connect pool lights to LOAD side of GFCI receptacle)
  • 20 amp 120V GFCI convenience receptacle
 
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