A brief experimental confirmation of pump RPM, flow, and current (cost) relationships

Sampo

Gold Supporter
Aug 19, 2022
68
Southeast PA
Pool Size
34000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I’m a longtime lurking reader of TFP who has recently decided to start posting (my intro is here). Thus, I thought that I’d share a tiny bit of experimental data that I generated last summer on pump speeds and their corresponding current draws on my system:

In abstract, I experimentally confirmed that my variable speed pump generates flows that increase linearly with pump RPMs over the entire range of tested speeds. But, as expected, the current draws for those flows increase exponentially. I’ve also plotted the cost of running my pump at various speeds to find a reasonable compromise: 50 GPM of flow would cost me $43.55/month if my pump were in continuous operation.

In more technical detail, I have a Jandy VS PlusHP 2.7 HP variable speed pump that I can set to arbitrary speeds in revolutions per minute (RPM). My pool has 2” piping. I’ve installed a FlowVis retrofit lid to my check valve that allows me to read flow with about +/- 2 GPM accuracy (available on Amazon with ASIN B074T1Q2C9). I used my Fluke T5-600 multimeter (ASIN B0006Z3GZU) in its ammeter setting to measure the corresponding 240V current draws on the adjacent sub panel; that instrument can read accurately at a resolution of 0.1A of AC.

I first set the pump RPMs to an initial value (1240 RPM) that resulted in a low flow of 30 gallons per minute (GPM). I then continued to vary the pump RPMs to find the values that were necessary to produce ever higher flows, each at 5 GPM intervals, up to a maximum of 90 GPM. Concurrently, I recorded the current draw (Amps at 240V) for each of these settings.

I had set out on this project after asking a simplistic question: “what is 'the best’ setting for my VS pump?” But I had quickly realized that this question doesn’t have a simple answer. I had initially looked for “pump curves” to see if they would add some insight. But I found them difficult to interpret for the task of dialing in my settings in the real world. Thus, I decided that it might be easiest to tackle the issue experimentally.

My first task was to determine the relationship between my pump speed and flow. When starting, I wasn’t quite sure what that would look like. But I hoped that it might be linear. If it had been logarithmic, then that would have suggested that extra inefficiencies (cavitation, etc.) were setting in at the higher speeds. But happily, the observed relationship was shockingly linear over the entire range that I tested:

(1) Flow per Speed.png


My second goal was to determine the relationship between my pump speed and its current draw. Since I had read some very helpful articles here on TFP, I already knew that pumps would draw dramatically more current at higher speeds. Indeed, as expected, the observed relationship grew exponentially, with ever-greater currents needed to sustain the increasing pump RPMs:

(2) Current per Speed.png


I also plotted the current draw for the various flow rates from the same data. I think this might have been the "ideal" pump curve that I would have liked to have had at the outset -- but unfortunately such curves probably cannot be provided by the manufacturers since they are dependent on other factors (e.g. piping) in each system:

(3) Current per Flow.png


Finally, using my approximate local electricity rate of $0.14/kWh, I estimated the cost of the various flow rates if I chose to operate my pump continuously 24/7:
(Measured Amps)(240V)(24h/d)(30d/mo)($0.14/kWh)/(1000W/kW):

(4) Cost per Flow.png

When beginning this small project, I had hoped that all these relationships might yield some “true optimum” for my pump speed -- that is, "the best" speed for my own pool. Ultimately, the observed data did not have an optimum “peak” or “valley". But they did show a reasonable “shoulder” to the growth of the current draw. Thus, I was able to pick an acceptable compromise for my own pump speed -- while avoiding an unnecessarily high electrical bill. Though I’ve changed my settings when needed based on my pool’s conditions, I’ve generally settled on 50 GPM at $43.55/month for continuous operation as a good compromise. Of course, I don’t operate my pump 24/7. But this baseline metric allows me to simulate my expected electricity use as I dial in my pool's settings.

Future directions might include pushing these data to further extremes of low and high pump speeds. It would also be interesting to determine the relationships with various inlet settings (all skimmers/drains open vs some closed) and at varying levels of sediment in my DE filter.

My raw data is provided here:

Pump Speed (RPM)Flow (gpm)Current (A at 240V)Cost of Cont Operation ($/mo)
1240​
30​
1.0​
$24.19​
1420​
35​
1.1​
$26.61​
1620​
40​
1.3​
$31.45​
1779​
45​
1.6​
$38.71​
1900​
50​
1.8​
$43.55​
2110​
55​
2.3​
$55.64​
2320​
60​
2.9​
$70.16​
2430​
65​
3.3​
$79.83​
2580​
70​
3.9​
$94.35​
2790​
75​
4.8​
$116.12​
2860​
80​
5.2​
$125.80​
3070​
85​
6.3​
$152.41​
3209​
90​
7.2​
$174.18​


Thanks for reading. And “CYA later!"

Sampo
 
You can operate even slower, as long as the chlorinator and skimmers function correctly. For my pool, normal operation is 24/7 at 1,000 RPM, which draws ~75 W. Monthly electric cost is less than $6.
 
Interesting. I really should have pushed lower until the flow effectively stopped: I think I'll try that when the season starts. But with lots of trees around my pool, I'll also need to maintain skimming efficiency. Definitely worth a try! Thanks @pjt !
 
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So. I absolutely love the getting down to the nitty gritty. Hats off for that, and it seems you enjoyed it as well. But if the thought ever arises, you already went there and can check the chart. :)

That said, we do everything for a reason here. If your skimmers work great down to 1000 RPMs then you run 1000 RPMs when you want to skim. Or whatever RPMs(flow) the heater needs to turn on when you need to heat. Etc etc etc. Every function has a minimum that costs less than any speed/flow above it. Higher speed functions such as a heater (typically) will cover all the lesser speed functions by default when running the higher speed.

I need about 1000 RPMs and its so cheap we splurge all the way up to 1500 because we like the look of the water moving more.
 
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@Sampo, what you have basically done is to rediscover the pump affinity equations which some of us have known about well before the formation of this forum. Were you not aware of these equations or
did not believe they were true?

Pump Speed

Typically, a single speed pump will operate at around 3450 RPM. But there can be significant advantages when running at lower RPM. The pump affinity equations can be used to determine how a pump's characteristics will change with speed. So if the flow rate, head or hydraulic HP is known for any one speed A, it can be calculated for another speed B using the following formulas.
  • GPM B = GPM A * (RPM B / RPM A)
  • Head B = Head A * (RPM B / RPM A) ^ 2
  • Hydraulic HP B = Hydraulic HP A * (RPM B / RPM A) ^ 3
But what do these equations really tell us? For one thing, a reduction in speed has a proportional reduction in flow rate but has a much more significant reduction in the required HP required to generate that flow rate. This is the primary reason a two speed or variable speed pump can save so much energy at lower speeds.

For example, low speed of a two speed pump has about 1/2 the flow rate as high speed and the affinity equations tell us that it requires only 1/8th the power of high speed. Unfortunately, two speed motors lose about half their efficiency at low speed so the energy use is only about 1/4th of high speed but still significant.

Current generation variable speed pumps provide even more cost savings over their two speed counterparts. Plus, given the range in RPM settings, the pump can be optimized for the given pool plumbing. The flexibility of a variable speed pump ensures a maximum energy factor for nearly any operating condition. Plus, current DOE regulations pretty much dictate the use of VS pumps now. Larger single speed and two speed pumps can no longer be manufactured in the US.

Reference: Hydraulics 101 - Have you lost your head?

As for your original question:

I had set out on this project after asking a simplistic question: “what is 'the best’ setting for my VS pump?” But I had quickly realized that this question doesn’t have a simple answer.
Most VS pumps bottom out in terms of energy use with a maximum energy factor (GPM/Watt) of around 1000 RPM so if that RPM works for skimming, SWGs, heating, etc., then that would be your best choice.
 
My hat is very much tipped to @mas985 and his fantastic article on this topic (which I think I had read, but clearly didn't fully digest before setting out to do this). Yet I am very glad for my wasted effort, as it has really helped me understand this topic in a way that I didn't before (fluid dynamics is definitely not in my core knowledge base as you can evidently tell). I also remain impressed that these crudely derived experimental data ended up matching so well with the theory.

I really also appreciate the practical point from @Newdude : 1,000 rpm as a starting point is a great tip, particularly since I had anchored on the much much-higher setting that my PB had given to me -- and tried to work down from there. From what I recall, the 30 GPM flow didn't visually seem like it would have cut it for filtering all the debris that falls in my pool, but I'm now much inspired to try that out this year! Thank you again -- this community is amazing, and I have so much to learn!
 
Is it better to skim constantly at extremely low flow -- versus occasionally at a moderate flow? I've been concerned that leaves/debris would get stuck at extreme low flow states (not even clearing the skimmer weir, etc)? But I haven't tested this assumption: and clearly I should!
 
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Water should flow over the weir door rather than around the sides so that will determine (as well as other things) how low of an RPM you can actually run. Skimming does take longer at lower flow rates so some people like to run 24/7 to keep the pool as clean as possible. But this is only economical if the RPM is as low as possible while still providing good skimming.
 
So maybe that's where the interesting tradeoffs occur: at ultra-low flow rates, perhaps 12h of 1,500 rpm vs 24h of 1,000 rpm. Another interesting area for experimentation this year!
 

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IMO, 12+ hours with the pump off is a long time for anything dropping in the pool to get waterlogged and sink.

The slightest breeze will easily overpower any circulation and that's even more time that you're not skimming.

When running 24/7 it doesn't matter when something drops in the pool, or when it's breezy, you'll start skimming immediately when the breeze dies down.

Start at low RPM and increase by 100 until the weir doors are bobbing away. Repeat the process until the cleaner works well (and any other functions). Note any speed and add 100 rpm to account for the filter getting dirty with slightly reduced flow.

Then it's a dance to dial in the skimming and filtering times. There's a bunch more time needed in the spring and fall than in the mid season. Or a rando week mid summer could be high if they plow/plant crops nearby. I can't be bothered and have 2 times. Summer time and winter time. All or nothing. :ROFLMAO:
 
Is it better to skim constantly at extremely low flow -- versus occasionally at a moderate flow? I've been concerned that leaves/debris would get stuck at extreme low flow states (not even clearing the skimmer weir, etc)? But I haven't tested this assumption: and clearly I should!
My SWG needs at least 1700 RPM. My skimmers do not skim very well at that flow.

I run my pool cleaner and pump at 2400 RPM for 3 hours a day to clean the pool surfaces and skim debris.

If the pool gets debris blown into it during the day I may increase the pump to 2400 RPM for an hour or so to skim it.
 
So maybe that's where the interesting tradeoffs occur: at ultra-low flow rates, perhaps 12h of 1,500 rpm vs 24h of 1,000 rpm. Another interesting area for experimentation this year!
Keep in mind, due to the pump affinity laws, hydraulic HP is proportional to RPM^3 which in turn affects the energy use by almost RPM^3 . So the drive motor will use more than 3x the energy at 1500 RPM vs 1000 RPM so there is no comparison. The lower RPMs at proportionally longer run times will almost always win out in terms of energy use.

The exception again is when RPM gets much below about 1000 RPM where energy use flattens out due to the drive electronics being always a constant energy use.
 
You can operate even slower, as long as the chlorinator and skimmers function correctly. For my pool, normal operation is 24/7 at 1,000 RPM, which draws ~75 W. Monthly electric cost is less than $6.
I have the same pump that you do. It makes significantly better numbers than the OP's for my pool at least. So he will need to take care. At 1000 rpm it looks like he'd see 20 gpm. That's pretty low for skimming.

I run mine at 1200 and get 48 gpm with 117 watts (0.6 amps if power factor is .8; I don't know what it really is, but this is typical). Yeah. The Intelliflo is a beast.
 
I run mine at 1200 and get 48 gpm with 117 watts (0.6 amps if power factor is .8; I don't know what it really is, but this is typical). Yeah. The Intelliflo is a beast.
Are you sure about those numbers?

To get 48 GPM with 1200 RPM, the plumbing curve would need to be close to:

Head (ft) = 0.003 * GPM^2

Which is extremely low head loss and not at all common. Plus, the wattage for that operating point should be 230 watts, not 117 watts so one of the numbers is not right. What is the pump model#?

Also, unlike an induction motor, a VS pump motor drive should have a power factor very close to 1.
 
I run mine at 1200 and get 48 gpm with 117 watts
Is this from the pump's display?

What is the System Pressure in PSI being reported by the pump?

What is the filter pressure?

The pump does not do well in reporting metrics in edge cases.

The pump estimates flow from power usage, but the power use flattens out at lower RPMs, so it is probably not reliable at 1,200 RPM.

If you have a cartridge filter and a heater bypass, the numbers might be possible, but they seem unlikely.

If the water is going through the heater, there is no way that you will get those numbers.

Intelliflo Pump Performance Curves..png

1708879805929.png

IntelliFlo VF Flow and Power vs Flow Pump Curve.

 
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So maybe that's where the interesting tradeoffs occur: at ultra-low flow rates, perhaps 12h of 1,500 rpm vs 24h of 1,000 rpm. Another interesting area for experimentation this year!
Using your own data shown - a speed of 1240rpm is $24/mo for 24 hrs. Increasing speed 50% (roughly) to 1900rpm shows a cost of $44/mo for 24 hrs. So dividing that by 2 for 12 hrs per day would be a rough estimate of $22/mo. This is back of napkin math but it would be a wash.
I like 24 hr operation as it is constant circulation because you never know when wind blows or debris falls in the pool.
 
These are great insights, and much appreciated. One question for these low-flow speeds: do you guys close off your deep end drains in order to boost the flows into the skimmers? I have two skimmers and a double main drain, and have previously left them all open except when manually vacuuming.
 

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