AquaPure PLC 1400 - faulty board or salt cell?

[generessler]

I bought one off Amazon $209 i think, and another locally for $179 at a pool store (I was shocked they had it and had it for so cheap).

Possibly the one from the pool store was old stock. Since Jandy was bought by Fluidra, at least some repair parts prices have become pretty insane.

 

[jesse-99]

Yeah I wondered, maybe it had been sitting on their shelf for years, lol. But, it definitely worked and solved my intermittent Service errors!

 

[Vol4Ever]

Pool was crystal blue when we left Saturday. Got home tonight to dark, dark green (again). SWG set at 90% and that's what it shows now. Still running fine except reversing error. Of course it rained heavily while we were gone and there's a few sticks and leaves that sat in pool. Too dark to mess with it now but back to square 1 tomorrow. That's multiple times now I've gotten it to crystal clear, only to go back green in the span of a few days. Sure hope some of this week's was simply due to me not being here & babysitting with the "worse than normal" inclement weather. Still gotta replace board too, but my gut is telling me there's STILL something else not quite right. Will check chems, but betting my bottom dollar chlorine has gone back to 0 even with SWG. Ugh this is maddening. Had pool just shy of 10 years and it's never given me fits like this.

 

[jesse-99]

Can you post test results tomorrow morning and a picture of the pool? Is it green cloudy or green clear? Can you add in LC to get FC back to normal levels in the morning (or tonight yet! and do an OCLT as well?).

 

[Vol4Ever]

It's algae based which I've never had much trouble before. Scrubbed walls and bottom multiple times, deep cleaned cartridge filters and shocked several times. Also used heavy algaecide dose followed by clarifier 24 hours later. The algaecide has fastest noticeable impact and appears to be gone...... But keeps coming back. I need to do more reading on SLAM program. Every other year I've shocked a couple times, used 2-3 manual chlorine tabs in skimmers, and it would quickly pull in line for SWG to keep up. Honestly never had to use separate algaecide either. This year has just been way different for some reason. Maybe I'm not dosing it heavy enough with algaecide even though it visibly disappears? Or is algaecide a waste of money?

Edit: I have cheapo dip strips to use for quicky when all is working OK, and then Taylor K-2005 drop kit when needing more accuracy. Is there something else I need in my test arsenal?

 

[jesse-99]

Algaecide is waste of money IMO if you're using chlorine (or a SWCG), as the algaecide will get consumed/neutralized by the chlorine anyways. Algaecides are effective at helping to prevent algae outbreaks when you -don't- have chlorine in your pool. But once you get algae, an algaecide won't get rid of it, only chlorine will.

Do you have a proper test kit (TF Test Kit or Taylor kit)? If not, strongly recommend getting one so you can verify you FC/CYA (and other things too!). You really need one if you're going to SLAM properly otherwise it's just a crapshoot.

 

[Vol4Ever]

Have Taylor K-2005. Never bought or used LC. Always shock packets and 3" tabs. Headed to bed now. Drove all day long back from beach and completely wiped out. Son has first 2 games of weekend baseball tournament in the morning. In other words, I'm not ignoring but it will be tomorrow afternoon before I get back into it all. Thx for the kind assist.

 

[HermanTX]

Taylor K-2005 drop kit when needing more accuracy. Is there something else I need in my test arsenal?

Since you have the K-2005, you can purchase the FAS-DPD test as a separate add on to make it a K2006 kit which is the recommended kit to test all FC, CC, CH, TA, pH and CYA

FAS/DPD Chlorine Test Kit

tftestkits.net

Since you have a Saltwater pool you should purchase a specific salt test which is K1766 which can be purchased

Taylor K-1766 Salt Test Kit

tftestkits.net

 

[Vol4Ever]

Board ordered & now time to attack my fishing pond. I mean swimming pool. I swear a good largemouth would probably do just fine if I threw him in there!

Will have to order the FAS/DPD later this week. One of the other vacationing joys is evidently our credit card got hacked. Thankfully CC company caught suspicious transactions before any damage was done, but still have to wait for new card to get here. Anyway, did some liquid tests today and also went to Leslie's to see what their electronic meter showed. I've gotten to know the guy there pretty well and he seems to genuinely care as opposed to just pushing product. And he takes his time with the testing. The few times I've double checked (today included), the results are within striking distance.

Anyway, I put 3# shock last night, chlorine tabs in each of the skimmers, and SWG is on 100% at least producing during forward cycle. My test and Leslie's showed 1 TC and barely any FC at all . . . even after all that manual. pH is 7.8, so I added a jug of muriatic to pull that down before starting SLAM. CYA is 60. Phosphates 9 & Salt 2,700.

I've never had to do SLAM before. I'm wanting to use 56% Cal Hypo as I have (12) 1 lb bags in my chemicals closet & TFP app shows that would be almost exact on the money to get to 24 FC. But it looks like that may get my salt all jacked up? Would be 8 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine if that Cal Hypo is simply a bad idea, but man it would be nice to use some of this stuff I already have on hand. These constant chemicals are getting expensive! And this is just a recommended initial dose. Is there a chance I'll be adding the same amount tomorrow and the next day, maybe slightly decreasing over time?

I'm seriously reaching a point to just drain WAY down & manually scrub as much as possible. Water isn't super expensive here (roughly $3 per 1,000 gallons). In other words, it would be about $100 (plus several days time) to re-fill the darn thing! With a new SWG already installed and a new board coming later this week, I could deep clean the cartridge filter and start over from scratch with everything being super clean . . . . . .

That or SLAM??

 

[mknauss]

(roughly $3 per 1,000 gallons)

If your water costs are not tiered, depending on what the water looks like, and if you can safely drain (check your local water table), a drain and refill may be advised.

 

[HermanTX]

Anyway, I put 3# shock last night, chlorine tabs in each of the skimmers, and SWG is on 100% at least producing during forward cycle.

It is recommended NOT to put tabs in the skimmer. This can build up acid in the skimmer if you pump is off and then directly flows to your pump, filter, heater, etc. If you have to use tabs, put them in a floater in your pool.
Your CYA is at 60 which is high for a SLAM but you are adding more CYA with the tabs.

I'm seriously reaching a point to just drain WAY down & manually scrub as much as possible. Water isn't super expensive here (roughly $3 per 1,000 gallons). In other words, it would be about $100 (plus several days time) to re-fill the darn thing! With a new SWG already installed and a new board coming later this week, I could deep clean the cartridge filter and start over from scratch with everything being super clean . . .

You still may have algae after the drain so be prepared for that. A drain will help you get your CYA down to 30 which is ideal for SLAM process.

I'm wanting to use 56% Cal Hypo as I have (12) 1 lb bags in my chemicals closet & TFP app shows that would be almost exact on the money to get to 24 FC.

It takes longer for Cal Hypo to dissolve and raise FC. Liquid Chlorine will mix very quickly.

 

[Vol4Ever]

The back PCB solved both of my SWCG issues

My new PCB is coming in tomorrow and I just thought about something. Does EVERYTHING have to be fully re-programmed when replacing that board? Stuff like filter schedule, cleaner schedule, LED light types, VFD pump speeds, blah, blah? I'm hoping those parameters are stored elsewhere, but I'll muddle through it if I have to.

 

[jesse-99]

I didn't have to do anything IIRC other than adjust the % it was running at (I think it defaulted to 0%).

Oddly enough, one of my PLC1400 SWCGs, the one that was throwing the 171/189 code intermittently , is now (today is the first time I saw it) showing a 120 code. -sigh- ... Maybe the cell just needs a cleaning. I'll give that a try first. I was code free for about 12 days on that SWCG I think? Argh.

 

[Vol4Ever]

I didn't have to do anything IIRC other than adjust the % it was running at (I think it defaulted to 0%).

Oddly enough, one of my PLC1400 SWCGs, the one that was throwing the 171/189 code intermittently , is now (today is the first time I saw it) showing a 120 code. -sigh- ... Maybe the cell just needs a cleaning. I'll give that a try first. I was code free for about 12 days on that SWCG I think? Argh.

Please tell me that's NOT the one you just put the new board on. Reads like you have multiple?

 

[jesse-99]

I both back PLC boards in BOTH of my PLC1400's.

One PLC1400 was throwing a 123 error intermittently. I tried cleaning the cell, replacing the cell, and replacing the power cord. None of that fixed the random 123 code so I replaced the back PCB board (which seemed to fixed the code).

One PLC 1400 was throwing 171/189 error intermittently. I replaced the back PCB board and for almost 2 weeks it was fine, now suddenly it's throwing a 120 code. So I guess I'll try cleaning that cell, OR putting in the cell that I removed from the ohter unit (since it didn't seem bad).

 

[jesse-99]

Okay so the PLC1400 showing the new 120 code was cleaned this morning with MA, there was some gunk in it, so hoping it's better. So far no codes, but I'll wait 72 hours before saying its fixed.

 

[Vol4Ever]

Welll fudge. Thought I was there. New cell and now new PCB. Got it installed Thursday and it ran fine all day. Producing chlorine with no error in either forward or reversing. While waiting on board, I had shocked the daylights out of pool while brushing furiously. Water *finally* back crystal blue and leaves/sticks all gone from recent heavy storms.

Then I get up yesterday to the control panel display reading 0%. SWG set at 65%. Played with it all day long including a temporary set to 100%. Talked to tech support for about 30 minutes but it seemed to be a newer tech. All he could come up with after multiple troubleshooting steps was elevated ambient temp (100+ and high humidity) was causing system to act squirrelly. Recommended I check again at night after temps dropped. Same thing. Even got up this morning to temps in high 70's. Still same thing.

At first I thought it was due to mode. Isn't the setpoint simply a time function? In other words, say I had it set at 50% to make math easier. I assumed that meant it would be "cell on" generating chlorine for 30 minutes and then "cell off" for 30 minutes doing nothing. Possibly with "cell resting" LED lit? May not be on an exact hour cycle like that, but you get the idea. Is that not how the system works in terms of % setting? Is it controlled by something other than time?

From memory, doesn't control panel display ALWAYS show current setpoint, regardless of what mode cell happens to be running? I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure out what's wrong now! . Ugh

EDIT: Forgot to mention actual setpoint isn't resetting. Handheld remote continues to show 65% in the AquaPure field. It's staying synced as when I temporarily changed onboard controller to 100%, field on handheld remote reflected the change when it was turned back on.

 

[ajw22]

The AquaPure has a 3 hour cycle time. The Aquapure reverses polarity every 3 hours. The percentage setting will control how much the cell runs during the cycle.

For example, at 50%, the box will say "Cell On" for 1.5 hours then "Cell Resting" for 1.5 hours. Then, there is a two minute off time, then the box will say Cell Reversing for 1.5 hours, then Cell Resting for 1.5 hours etc.

The Aquapure information disappearing from the Aqualink and displaying 0 on the Aqualink is a known problem, if that is what you are seeing. The Aquapure is generating but the data is not getting to Aqualink. Power cycling everything usually fixes it.

 

[Vol4Ever]

I'll keep an eye on that. When power cycling (at main disconnect level) into full re-boot, does system still remember where it happened to be in its previous 3 hour rotation, OR should that force it into starting a new cycle from scratch?

I guess I could set it to 100% for a little while and make that question irrelevant. As long as it's on, it should be generating other than maybe the short 2 minute windows during mode swaps.

Tech also mentioned trisensor which is the lone item that hasn't been replaced yet, but I couldn't figure out what it had to do with the operational % issue at hand. Sensor appears to be fine as water temp, salinity, and "good flow" all report accurately, connector wire is in mint condition, internal measuring ports are clean with no film or scale, blah, blah, blah

 

[ajw22]

Generation cycle starts a new cycle when you cycle the power. Nothing is remembered.