AquaPure PLC 1400 - faulty board or salt cell?

[JamesW]

Can you show the wiring in the box?

If you have the correct voltage to the cell and low current, then the cell is bad.

However, you have to measure the voltage to the cell when the code comes on.

Check the current by clamping around one wire.

 

[JamesW]

You have a long thread and you need to summarize everything in your new posts as well as post pictures so we can keep up without reading through more than 100 posts to figure things out.

You also need to do any tests that we have asked for and provide all requested information.

 

[jesse-99]

Agree with James, a quick summary again would be helpful. And measuring the voltage/current at the time of the error. (@James -- thanks for the pic, I'm going to buy that MeterK unit online today)

And just to double check, are you being sure to test your Salt level with K-1766 kit (as opposed to just reading the salt level from the unit)? Low Current issues (120-123) seemingly -can- be a result of low salt ppm even if the PLC1400 isn't reporting a low salt issue. I've seen this myself when getting a 120/121 code on a brand spanking new PLC1400 with a new PLC back board too. At that point I was also ready to throw it against a wall, but then checked salt with my Taylor K-1766 and found I was around 2200-2400ppm (due to recent minor water drain/changeover), when the PLC1400 was reading 2900-3000 salt level. So I added a couple bags of salt, registered 3200ppm on my K-1766 (PLC1400 now shows 3500) and no more intermittent current errors since. FWIW.

EDIT -- also, do you have the "Jandy AquaPure, PureLink & Nature² Fusion Soft Workbook" .PDF as well for troubleshooting?

 

[JamesW]

Maybe it is the generic cell.

Maybe send it back for testing and warranty replacement.

Maybe get a genuine Jandy cell.

 

[Vol4Ever]

Really hard to summarize as there was so much testing and component changing over a long period. But it's almost like all previous steps just went out the window. Back to square 1 with original problem of error 123 and not knowing if it was cell or board except this time both are brand new. And yes I had to go offbrand on the cell. Budgets are extremely tight right now with an unexpected job layoff / career change. I've already sent e-mail to cell company (saltpoolstore.com) but don't have high hopes based on others reviews. In hindsight, that's probably a decision I would NOT have made had I known the sketchy company, but it's actually a product I found on this site in a different thread before I posted anything. Similarly long, but it read like it worked well in the end & I didn't research much past that which is all on me!

For now, I'm going to try @jesse-99 idea of adding a little more salt even though the onboard shows something like 3.2 salinity. The tri-sensor hasn't been changed either. Is it just a status reporting device, or does system actually make decisions based on what it reads?

 

[HermanTX]

I've already sent e-mail to cell company (saltpoolstore.com) but don't have high hopes based on others reviews. In hindsight, that's probably a decision I would NOT have made had I known the sketchy company,

They state an industry leading 5-yr limited warranty - whatever that means. I do hope they can offer some rebate.

 

[Vol4Ever]

They state an industry leading 5-yr limited warranty - whatever that means. I do hope they can offer some rebate.

When reading all their fine print, it's a pro-rate deal. First year, full replace. Second year, purchase new at 30% of retail price (70% off). Third year 50% retail. Fourth and fifth year 70% retail price. Warning, though. The model 1400 Platinum I bought, for example, is shown right now on their website @ $409 BUT list is $920. In year 2 I'd be paying 0.3 x $920, not 0.3 x $409 . . . already getting in the range of what I paid for it to begin with. By year 3, new unit is less expensive than a warranty claim! Hindsight is always 20/20 and I should've dug into deeper details other than just seeing "FIVE YEAR WARRANTY!" on website & assuming I was covered. No one to blame but myself.

 

[JamesW]

Can you check the voltage and current?

 

[Vol4Ever]

I had to order an amp clamp that's scheduled to get here Friday. Not sure how to check voltage on aftermarket as DC cord is hardwired into cell body with no exposed terminals. Can I check voltage by unplugging cell and seeing what comes out of the 2 wire connection (from panel) where it ties inside panelboard? Will be later before I can take it all apart.

In the meantime, I did add a couple bags of salt to see what happens. Even though screen reads that it's fine, none has been added in a while. That's another test kit I need to order. All I have is the Basic Taylor K-2005.

 

[robl45]

Read through this. I don’t have codes but trying to determine if my cell or board is bad. I too have a compupool cell. I’m reading mid 8 volts on the board with the cell disconnected and 17 volts when the cell is connected. I’m not completely sure from the trouble shooting guide if I measure the dc voltage at the board with the cell connected or disconnected. The manual also says. If below 22 volts replace the board. But then in trouble shooting says if current is good and voltage is low replace the cell

 

[Vol4Ever]

Read through this. I don’t have codes but trying to determine if my cell or board is bad. I too have a compupool cell. I’m reading mid 8 volts on the board with the cell disconnected and 17 volts when the cell is connected. I’m not completely sure from the trouble shooting guide if I measure the dc voltage at the board with the cell connected or disconnected. The manual also says. If below 22 volts replace the board. But then in trouble shooting says if current is good and voltage is low replace the cell

I'm not sure. So far, that's been the only drawback I've had with the "inexpensive" cell. I do like the built in DC cord as it eliminates a connection that can go bad over time, but it does make it impossible to read cell voltages. I thought that would be as simple as unplugging the cell and simply checking the 2 wires coming from the board but there's evidently more to it than that. Maybe one of the more experienced guys can give you an idea how to measure when cell terminal posts aren't available. Frankly, I'd like to know myself when board side is only available place to check.

On another note, I went through all the mess in this whole thread, ultimately replacing both the cell and the board. Had to re-strip and terminate multiple wires as original installer hadn't been very careful and some were nicked where outer jacketing had been removed. Can't say if this was initial culprit but what FINALLY got my system working perfectly was redoing the 2 DC connectors that were FACTORY installed on the Jandy side. Weirdest thing I've ever seen, but those just felt kinda loose . . . . probably from all the plugging & unplugging! Re-terminated new connectors there & it's been running fine ever since. At this point, the only thing I can't comment on the aftermarket cell is longevity but my fingers are crossed.

 

[robl45]

I'm not sure. So far, that's been the only drawback I've had with the "inexpensive" cell. I do like the built in DC cord as it eliminates a connection that can go bad over time, but it does make it impossible to read cell voltages. I thought that would be as simple as unplugging the cell and simply checking the 2 wires coming from the board but there's evidently more to it than that. Maybe one of the more experienced guys can give you an idea how to measure when cell terminal posts aren't available. Frankly, I'd like to know myself when board side is only available place to check.

On another note, I went through all the mess in this whole thread, ultimately replacing both the cell and the board. Had to re-strip and terminate multiple wires as original installer hadn't been very careful and some were nicked where outer jacketing had been removed. Can't say if this was initial culprit but what FINALLY got my system working perfectly was redoing the 2 DC connectors that were FACTORY installed on the Jandy side. Weirdest thing I've ever seen, but those just felt kinda loose . . . . probably from all the plugging & unplugging! Re-terminated new connectors there & it's been running fine ever since. At this point, the only thing I can't comment on the aftermarket cell is longevity but my fingers are crossed.

My connectors going from the board and also connecting to the cord of the salt cell were not in the best shape. I changed them and now got 21.5 volts to 21.7 volts and the cell is working. I was trying to measure by sticking the probes in the back of the connectors which usually will do the job, but I was having no joy, so I finally just made little jumper harnesses so I could measure the voltage. I left them in side the cover at the bottom of the aqualink control panel in case/when I need them again to measure the voltage. I'm thinking the connectors heated up enough that they weren't really putting out the full voltage. I really do hate the Jandy system though, but its integrated so I deal with it. Literally the only part that hasn't been replaced on it is the screen. Front board, transformer, cell, sensor all replaced.