I can get some of that for you tomorrow. Came from saltpoolstore.com and it's model number GRC/J1400-3. There's a really good thread on TFP about this unit, but I don't have link in front of me. Advertised as exact drop in with same technical specs. Really nice looking, solid unit in person, and the clear housing is a nice touch to be able to see everything without disassembly.
AquaPure PLC 1400 - faulty board or salt cell?
- Thread starter Vol4Ever
- Start date
And voltage was north of 25 VDC when controller was issuing call for "cell on" back before I replaced anything at all. Old cell was getting same 123 which is why I replaced it to begin with.
Do you know how to check the current?
How old is the box?
Check the circuit board for any signs of overheating or damage.
How old is the box?
Check the circuit board for any signs of overheating or damage.
Sorry for delay. Spent some time today gathering more data & taking pictures. Answer to @JamesW questions: I don't know how to check current. Voltage was easy on Jandy but will be tough on Compupool since it uses built-in power cord. As to box age, I assume you are talking about the whole system? Pool was originally constructed in spring of 2014. I haven't counted, but I'm guessing we've gone through 5-6 Jandy cells since. Some warranty. Some out-of-pocket. It's honestly what pushed me to try an aftermarket this time. And the circuit board is visibly pristine. I've had the whole thing apart multiple times going through tech manual's button push and board touchpoint voltage troubleshooting steps.
Now on to today's report & pictures. First 2 are the new Compupool install. And this time we left spare PVC on both sides on purpose. We've had to re-plumb so many dang times, better safe than sorry! I can't speak to longevity yet, but that thing is wicked cool. When controller is in "cell on" mode without any errors, you can actually see the chlorine being generated. It's wild. Other troubleshooting pics are display screenshots. I didn't force any of these. Just tried to catch cell in its different modes during normal operation. Summary:
Something about reversing seems to be the culprit. I've noticed before that seems to be the mode when I'm getting 123. Unless the LED's indicate something else (like certain pattern means certain error) when service light triggers.
Any ideas?
Now on to today's report & pictures. First 2 are the new Compupool install. And this time we left spare PVC on both sides on purpose. We've had to re-plumb so many dang times, better safe than sorry! I can't speak to longevity yet, but that thing is wicked cool. When controller is in "cell on" mode without any errors, you can actually see the chlorine being generated. It's wild. Other troubleshooting pics are display screenshots. I didn't force any of these. Just tried to catch cell in its different modes during normal operation. Summary:
- CELL ON - working fine; can even see chlorine generating in the Compupool unit
- CELL RESTING - no errors
- CELL RESTING & REVERSING - no errors
- CELL REVERSING - error 123
Something about reversing seems to be the culprit. I've noticed before that seems to be the mode when I'm getting 123. Unless the LED's indicate something else (like certain pattern means certain error) when service light triggers.
Any ideas?
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Can you show the wiring in the box?
If you have the correct voltage to the cell and low current, then the cell is bad.
However, you have to measure the voltage to the cell when the code comes on.
Check the current by clamping around one wire.
Check the circuit board for damage.
If you have the correct voltage to the cell and low current, then the cell is bad.
However, you have to measure the voltage to the cell when the code comes on.
Check the current by clamping around one wire.
Check the circuit board for damage.
Sorry. Somehow fat fingered post before done! Anyway:
CELL ON - working fine; can even see chlorine generating in the Compupool unit
CELL RESTING - no errors
CELL RESTING & REVERSING - no errors
Will also take wiring pictures when I have time to go back out there & take it apart. Planning to keep watching. I checked it a few minutes ago & it was still in the cell on mode with chlorine visibly generating inside the cell. It's the intermittent part that has me stumped. Both the unit that came out and this new one exhibit exact same symptoms like this. If cell was bad, wouldn't it be in error in all modes, not just reversing?
Sorry for questions. Had this pool for quite a while, but still learning. NEVER had as much trouble as I'm having this year just getting it started up for the season. Always keep close eye on my chemicals and usually can keep pool crystal clear.
CELL ON - working fine; can even see chlorine generating in the Compupool unit
CELL RESTING - no errors
CELL RESTING & REVERSING - no errors
I wouldn't think the cell is bad is it's brand new. And it's exact same code that previous Jandy was throwing. I have a couple voltmeters, but unfortunately no split core amp clamp. Might be able to do it in series by disconnecting wire and bridging with meter, but I'd feel much safer with a clamp. Will try to pick one up when out & about this weekend.Can you show the wiring in the box?
If you have the correct voltage to the cell and low current, then the cell is bad.
However, you have to measure the voltage to the cell when the code comes on.
Check the current by clamping around one wire.
Check the circuit board for damage.
Will also take wiring pictures when I have time to go back out there & take it apart. Planning to keep watching. I checked it a few minutes ago & it was still in the cell on mode with chlorine visibly generating inside the cell. It's the intermittent part that has me stumped. Both the unit that came out and this new one exhibit exact same symptoms like this. If cell was bad, wouldn't it be in error in all modes, not just reversing?
Sorry for questions. Had this pool for quite a while, but still learning. NEVER had as much trouble as I'm having this year just getting it started up for the season. Always keep close eye on my chemicals and usually can keep pool crystal clear.
Maybe a damaged component or trace on the circuit board.
Check the circuit board for damage.
Check the circuit board for damage.
- Dec 13, 2020
- 780
- Pool Size
- 19600
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
In case you haven't seen these
A troubleshoot guide for AquaPure. This one shows how to test sense voltages on the board as a proxy for current in case you don't have a clamp ammeter.
A training guide for AquaPure techs. << EDIT: This doc didn't have permissions set correctly. If you couldn't see it, please try again.
Fwiw, both of these say in different ways that when the control box is all good, a failing cell is indicated by high voltage at the cell (over 28V) as long as salt level is right and the cell is clean. Electrically, this makes sense ... anything that makes the electrical resistance of the path through the water inside the cell too high causes supply voltage to go up because it's less loaded.
Caveat: I'm no kind of SWG tech. Just an AquaPure owner and EE. I found these documents online in random places. Can't vouch for their correctness. They correspond exactly to my controls, which are about 16 years old. I have a 3-year old tri-port sensor. Cell age is unknown. It came with the house.
A troubleshoot guide for AquaPure. This one shows how to test sense voltages on the board as a proxy for current in case you don't have a clamp ammeter.
A training guide for AquaPure techs. << EDIT: This doc didn't have permissions set correctly. If you couldn't see it, please try again.
Fwiw, both of these say in different ways that when the control box is all good, a failing cell is indicated by high voltage at the cell (over 28V) as long as salt level is right and the cell is clean. Electrically, this makes sense ... anything that makes the electrical resistance of the path through the water inside the cell too high causes supply voltage to go up because it's less loaded.
Caveat: I'm no kind of SWG tech. Just an AquaPure owner and EE. I found these documents online in random places. Can't vouch for their correctness. They correspond exactly to my controls, which are about 16 years old. I have a 3-year old tri-port sensor. Cell age is unknown. It came with the house.
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Thx so much everyone. I have a crazy weekend with kids activities and extra family in town. I promise to circle back when I have more time to get back into it. I was able to get water clear & blue enough for weekend swims with manual chemicals and lots of love labor. Still plan to get to bottom of 123 though. I'm on a mission and all of you are *massively* helpful. Stand by...
This is bugging me too much, so I broke away from family stuff for a few minutes. Still exhibiting same symptoms today. When spot checking throughout morning, every mode is running fine with no errors EXCEPT Reversing which triggers 123. Can also confirm it is indeed generating chlorine as that's visible in the clear aftermarket SWG.
Tried to take a couple matching pictures to @JamesW and attempting to upload in higher resolution. Visibly, whole thing looks clean as a whistle but a trained eye my see something I'm missing. Does that relay simply unplug as opposed to something soldered? Don't want to break it!! And how would I test to see if it's the culprit? Thx!
EDIT: Also let me know if you see any jumpers or other items that were set incorrectly from day 1 that may have something to do with the high failure rate. For example, I see the JL1 cut/uncut notation between AP700 & AP1400 to bottom of board. Mine should be uncut (jumpered) but I'm not sure which close by physical jumper it's referencing.
Tried to take a couple matching pictures to @JamesW and attempting to upload in higher resolution. Visibly, whole thing looks clean as a whistle but a trained eye my see something I'm missing. Does that relay simply unplug as opposed to something soldered? Don't want to break it!! And how would I test to see if it's the culprit? Thx!
EDIT: Also let me know if you see any jumpers or other items that were set incorrectly from day 1 that may have something to do with the high failure rate. For example, I see the JL1 cut/uncut notation between AP700 & AP1400 to bottom of board. Mine should be uncut (jumpered) but I'm not sure which close by physical jumper it's referencing.
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Pull the board and look for obvious damage.
Maybe order a new relay and have someone replace it.
Maybe order a new relay and have someone replace it.
I found that 700/1400 jumper hiding down there after my last post and it's correct. So relay is soldered? I can actually do that if I have to. Pretty good with micro work. That relay's function is to trigger between on & reversing? All day cell has been operating exact same way with reversing being the ONLY error 123 mode and chlorine being generated when called for.
Here's another idea but it may not work. What if I reversed the cell's power connections? Theoretically wouldn't that make it backwards where all modes would be 123 except reversing, with reversing showing as OK? It's just a DC cord which is usually simple positive/negative but I certainly don't want to fry anything.
Here's another idea but it may not work. What if I reversed the cell's power connections? Theoretically wouldn't that make it backwards where all modes would be 123 except reversing, with reversing showing as OK? It's just a DC cord which is usually simple positive/negative but I certainly don't want to fry anything.
Try reversing the cell connections.
It won't hurt anything.
If "Reversing" is still bad, then the problem is probably with the board.
If the problem switches to 123 on the Forward direction, it is probably a bad cell.
It won't hurt anything.
If "Reversing" is still bad, then the problem is probably with the board.
If the problem switches to 123 on the Forward direction, it is probably a bad cell.
In this picture, there is some pink and white stuff on the board.
Do you know what that is?
Do you know what that is?
Sorry. My son's in a baseball tournament and then it started POURING when we got home. Haven't been able to do much else since taking those photos earlier. And I have zero clue about the pink/white. Honestly never even noticed it.
Baseball again tomorrow coupled with heavy rain forecast again but we'll see. I'll take a closer look at the pink/white and also try reversing the cell power leads. Next step is removing entire backboard for you, but I've never done that before. Guessing it's pretty straightforward
Baseball again tomorrow coupled with heavy rain forecast again but we'll see. I'll take a closer look at the pink/white and also try reversing the cell power leads. Next step is removing entire backboard for you, but I've never done that before. Guessing it's pretty straightforward