Difference between revisions of "Jandy AquaPure SWG" - Further Reading

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=Jandy AquaPure SWG=
 
=Jandy AquaPure SWG=
 +
[[File:Jandy AquaPure SWG User Interface.png|200px|thumb]]
 +
[[File:Jandy Aquapure SWG.jpg|thumb]]
 
The Jandy AquaPure system consists of a AquaPure Power Center or PureLink Power Centers and either a PURE700 cell or a PURE1400 cell. The PureLink Power Centers combine all the features of the AquaLink Power Centers and AquaPure water purification electronics in one box.
 
The Jandy AquaPure system consists of a AquaPure Power Center or PureLink Power Centers and either a PURE700 cell or a PURE1400 cell. The PureLink Power Centers combine all the features of the AquaLink Power Centers and AquaPure water purification electronics in one box.
 +
 +
[[File:Jandy Purelink Aquapure open.jpg|400px|thumb]]
 +
 +
[[File:Jandy Aquapure Power Interface Board.jpg|400px|thumb]]
  
 
The AquaPure salt-water chlorine sanitizing systems uses salt water to deliver water sanitation by generating chlorine.
 
The AquaPure salt-water chlorine sanitizing systems uses salt water to deliver water sanitation by generating chlorine.
  
−
The AquaPure cells can be controlled by the AquaPure control panel or Aqualink automation systems.  
+
The AquaPure cells can be controlled by the AquaPure user interface inside the control/power center or by the Aqualink automation systems.  
  
 
==AquaPure Cell Capacity==
 
==AquaPure Cell Capacity==
Line 15: Line 21:
 
[[File:Jandy AquaPure Cell Configuration.png|350px|thumb]]
 
[[File:Jandy AquaPure Cell Configuration.png|350px|thumb]]
 
Both cells use the same Power Center box. However there is a jumper on the Power Interface Board that is connected for the 1400 cell and cut for the 700 cell.  The Power Center comes configured for the 1400 cell and the JL1 jumper must be cut if using the 700 cell.
 
Both cells use the same Power Center box. However there is a jumper on the Power Interface Board that is connected for the 1400 cell and cut for the 700 cell.  The Power Center comes configured for the 1400 cell and the JL1 jumper must be cut if using the 700 cell.
 +
 +
[[File:Jandy Aquapure JL1 Cut.png|thumb]]
 +
 +
[[File:Aquapure Jumper.jpg]]
  
 
If you are switching from the 700 cell to the 1400 cell the JL1 jumper needs to be reconnected.  
 
If you are switching from the 700 cell to the 1400 cell the JL1 jumper needs to be reconnected.  
 +
 +
The PLC700's have a 2 prong plug system and the PLC1400's have a 3 prong plug system.
  
 
Page 17 in the [https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0325600.pdf Jandy Power Center Installation Manual] shows the location of the jumper.
 
Page 17 in the [https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0325600.pdf Jandy Power Center Installation Manual] shows the location of the jumper.
 +
 +
==Jandy Tri-Sensor==
 +
 +
The Jandy tri-sensor measures water flow, salinity, and water temperature.
 +
 +
The AquaPure does not have a flow switch, it has a flow sensor, which is a heated probe and and unheated probe and it works on the same principle as "wind chill".<ref>https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/need-intelliflo-and-jandy-aquapure-1400-folks.254612/post-2226671</ref>
 +
 +
If you have a No-Flow error try resetting the circuit breaker and re-calibrating the tri-sensor before you consider replacing it.
 +
 +
You can find instructions for replacing and calibrating the tri-sensor in the [https://www.poolsupplyunlimited.com/Products/Manuals/53059_20139413550.pdf AquaPure and PureLink Tri-Sensor Adapter Installation Kit Manual].
 +
 +
What is the Software number on the CPU?
 +
 +
If it’s 02110A10 or 01220A15, you use program A, otherwise you use program B on the in-line module on the trisensor cord. Don’t use the little adaptor card between the cord plug and the circuit board.
 +
 +
Here is a test you can do to diagnose the trisensor.
 +
 +
Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the board.
 +
 +
Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.
 +
 +
While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It should read 75° F or 24° C.
 +
 +
Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .
 +
 +
If the readings are correct then the board is O.K. and the problem is with the flow sensor. On the other hand if the readings are different then it indicates that there is a problem with the board.
 +
 +
==Salinity==
 +
 +
With the AquaPure 1400, the reading is in grams per liter, which is the same as 1,000 ppm. 3 gpl is 3,000 ppm.
 +
 +
If the salinity is above 4.0 gpl, the unit will cut off and give error code 145 (High Salinity).
 +
 +
The Salinity button C on the sanitizer user interface keypad can be used to determine salinity.
 +
 +
*3.0 to 3.5 gpl of salt is recommended for optimum water conditions.
 +
*Low salt concentration below 2.0 gpl will cause premature cell failure.
 +
*High salt concentration above 4.0 gpl may damage the power center.
 +
 +
Make sure that the salt is very well mixed by brushing thoroughly at least 5 times.
 +
 +
If the actual salinity is above 4.0 gpl (4,000 ppm), the pool needs to be diluted to get the level below 4.0 gpl.
 +
 +
The manual says that the unit can be damaged, which could void the warranty.
 +
 +
==Aquapure Cell Replacement==
 +
 +
When the cell needs replacement you should replace the cell, tri sensor, and power cord. They are sold as a kit.<ref>https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/plc1400-and-r0452400-compatible.260746/#post-2280305</ref>
 +
 +
You will also find the cell sold alone at a lower price then the kit and it is tempting to buy only the cell. The PLC1400 cell is Jandy P/N R0452400.
 +
 +
The Flow & Salinity Sensor is Jandy P/N R0452500.
 +
 +
The PureLink DC Cord is Jandy P/N R0402800.
 +
 +
==Replace the Power Cord When you Replace the Cell==
 +
 +
When replacing the cell, it's important to replace the power cord so that the connections are clean and the resistance is minimized.<ref>https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/six-month-old-jandy-plc1400-smoking-melting-rubber-wire-connector.198600/post-1752937</ref>
 +
 +
The prongs are sealed by O-rings and a compression plate held down by two screws. The problem is that the O-rings can leak, which creates a corrosive mix of water, salt, hydrogen gas and chlorine gas. This corrosion increases the resistance of the connection and generates a lot of heat due to the high current of 6 to 8 amps.
 +
 +
The center prong is the most common point of failure. You can usually see evidence of a leak when you know to look for it.
 +
 +
[[File:Jandy cell prongs LI.jpg|thumb]]
 +
 +
==Replacing Cracked Union==
 +
 +
Jandy uses a proprietary thread on their unions.
 +
 +
You can get this kit and cutout your unions and glue in a pipe and then replace the unions...
 +
 +
[https://saltpoolstore.com/products/copy-of-jandy-aquapure-3-port-cell-union-kit Jandy Aquapure 3-port Cell Union Kit]
 +
 +
==Audible Alarm==
 +
The audible alarm is described on page 34 of the Jandy® Pro Series AquaPure®/PureLink™ Power Center and Cell Kit | Installation and Operation Manual.<ref>https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0325600.pdf</ref>
 +
 +
Adjusting the audible alarm volume is also described on page 34 of the Installation Manual.
 +
 +
The audible alarm can be permanently disabled by removing the jumper from J2 on the control/power center Power Interface Board (PIB).
 +
 +
[[File:Jandy Aquapure J2 Audible Alarm.png|thumb]]
 +
 +
==Cold Water Operation==
 +
 +
From Page 39 of the Installation Manual:
 +
 +
Below 51°F (11°C), chlorine production is not permitted; operating the chlorinator in cold water might result in over-chlorinated pool water. If more chlorine is needed, activating the “Boost” mode will override this cold water feature allowing chlorine production for 24 hours of operation.
 +
 +
This applies to the Jandy AquaPure and the Nature2 FusionSoft as they are sister products. An optional "Spool" Piece (sold separately) used to be available to replace the cell during winterizing or cell maintenance. This piece has been discontinued and is no longer available. In addition, the AquaPure threads are proprietary and Jandy does not offer replacement proprietary unions (the "male" piece).
 +
 +
If removing the cell is desired so that water may circulate without the cell, specialized plumbing would need to be added during installation of the cell. One method is an additional PVC union after each end of the cell. This method would require the purchase of 4 unions. 2 for when the cell is installed and 1/2 of the other 2 unions (the "male" 1/2) for creation of the bypass pipe.
 +
 +
When a FREEZE CONTROLLER is used on pump equipment and the chlorinator is run through the winter, turn the CHLORINE PRODUCTION down to 10 - 20%.
 +
 +
==Jandy SP3P Dummy Cell==
 +
 +
Jandy has the [https://www.swimmingpoolsupplyusa.com/Jandy-SP3P-Cell-Cleaning-Kit-p/sp3p.htm Jandy SP3P Dummy Cell Cleaning Kit] that includes everything you need to remove, clean, store, and/or bypass your Jandy AquaPure 3-Port Salt Cell.
 +
 +
You can remove your cell for winter and install the dummy cell.
  
 
==AquaPure Cycle Time==
 
==AquaPure Cycle Time==
  
−
The AquaPure has a 3 hour cycle time. The percentage setting will control how much the cell runs during the cycle.<ref> https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/jandy-aquapure-1400-s-cell-reversing.138340/post-1225904 </ref>
+
The AquaPure has a 3 hour polarity cycle time (3 hours one polarity, 3 hours reverse polarity). The production cycle time used for chlorine production (observationally) is 30 minutes. The percentage setting will control how much the cell runs during the production cycle.<ref> https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/aquapure-cycle-time-wiki-correction.264622/#post-2321916 </ref>
  
−
For example, at 50%, the box will say "Cell On" for 1.5 hours then "Cell Resting" for 1.5 hours. Then, there is a two minute off time, then the box will say Cell Reversing for 1.5 hours, then Cell Resting for 1.5 hours etc.
+
For example, at 50%, the cell will run for 15 minutes and off for 15 minutes. Polarity will change every 3 hours.
 +
 
 +
Boost – 24 Hour 100% Chlorine Production Cycle.
 +
 
 +
To Enter Boost Mode Press and Hold “Temperature” Button 10 Seconds
  
 
==Jandy Warranty==
 
==Jandy Warranty==
Line 35: Line 150:
  
 
IMPORTANT NOTICE NO WARRANTY if purchased online. This is not a DIY product. Installation by a qualified pool professional required. Register product at Jandy.com/registration.
 
IMPORTANT NOTICE NO WARRANTY if purchased online. This is not a DIY product. Installation by a qualified pool professional required. Register product at Jandy.com/registration.
 +
 +
==Replacing Old Square Jandy PLC700/1400 Cell==
 +
 +
Jandy switched to a 3-port cell design to aid in cleaning and plumbing flexibility and no longer makes 2-port cells. However, the Jandy PLC700 cell kit (for pools up to 12,000 gallons) and the PLC1400 (with a 40,000 gallon capacity) kit contain new cells as well as all the necessary accessories to switch a 2-port setup to the new design.<ref>https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/jandy-old-square-salt-cell-replacement.201262/</ref>
 +
 +
Adjustments to the wiring are:
 +
 +
*Red goes to green and blue goes to black/white.
 +
*The sensor connects to the same spot. If there's a little adapter card between the old sensor cord and the circuit board, remove the adapter card.
 +
*Look at the label on the CPU for the firmware revision.
 +
*If the power interface board firmware is 02110A10 or 01220A15, you use program A for the trisensor. All other firmware uses program B on the trisensor inline module.
  
 
==Troubleshooting==
 
==Troubleshooting==
 +
 +
The [http://docshare04.docshare.tips/files/5369/53693905.pdf Jandy AquaPure, PureLink & Nature² Fusion Soft Workbook] gives a lot of good information on installation and troubleshooting.
 +
 +
Also [https://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/jandy-aqua-pure-error-codes.pdf Jandy AquaPure Troubleshooting].
 +
 +
===Pin Corrosion===
 +
A common reason for the cell failing and getting error codes 120, 121 or 123 is one or more of the pins corroding and separating from its plate. Most common is the center pin.<ref>https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/jandy-aquapure-1400-error-120.236117/</ref>
 +
 +
You can remove the two screws holding down the plate over the prongs and check the base of the prongs.
 +
 +
The cell cannot be repaired even though the plates may have life left in them.
 +
 +
Some members add dielectric grease to the pins when they do their annual work on the filter and check the cell.
 +
 +
<gallery>
 +
File:Jandy PLC1400 Corroded plate.png|Corroded Plate
 +
File:Jandy PLC1400 Corroded Pins.png|Pins Missing
 +
File:Jandy cell prongs LI.jpg|Screws to Remove
 +
File:Jandy PLC1400 Cell Prongs.jpg|Screws Removed
 +
File:Jandy P(LC1400 Corroded Center Pin.jpg|Center Pin Gone
 +
File:Jandy_PLC1400_Corroded_Center_Pin_Side_View.jpg
 +
</gallery>
 +
 +
===Jandy Aquapure Error Codes===
 +
 +
====Error 120====
 +
 +
120 is low current. That can be from low salt, low water temperature, a bad power cord, cell plates corroded or loose power pins. Make sure that temp is above 60, salt is 3400, power cord is good and look in the cell at the plates with a good light from both ends to see if the plates are corroded.
 +
 +
====Error 121====
 +
 +
A 121 error can occur for a number of different reasons: dirty cell, damaged cell, bad cell cable, low salt level, cell wearing out due to age, or damaged power supply.
 +
 +
Test the salt level with a K-1766 Taylor Salt Test.
 +
 +
====Error 123====
 +
 +
That error is low or no current to the cell. First thing to check is the cord. Look for heavy corrosion at both ends. You can sometimes fix it by cleaning off the corrosion.<ref>https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/aquapure-1400-receiving-error-code-123.46288/post-387518</ref>
 +
 +
Also look inside the cell at the cord end. The three pins go inside and connect to the plates. If one of them is rotted away, it's time for a new cell and cord.
 +
 +
Otherwise the back circuit board may need replacement.
 +
 +
===Cell Amperage===
 +
 +
You can check the amperage to verify if the cell is generating. The 700 cell has half the number of plates as the 1400 cell. In [https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/aquapure-1400-121-error.218408/ this thread], the amperage of the 1400 cell tests at about 5.6 amps, and the amperage of the 700 cell should test at about 2.8 amps.<ref>https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/jandy-aquapure-plc-700-not-producing-chlorine.220478/post-1929929</ref>
 +
 +
===Burnt Tri-Sensor Center Pin===
 +
[[File:Jandy Aquapure Tri-Sensor.jpg|150px|thumb]]
 +
 +
When the tri-sensor fails the salinity will be incorrect or you will get a no-flow error.
 +
 +
Note that the center prong is on the cell where the power cord connects to the cell. This issue is with the trisensor, which is a separate part that installs in the cell.
 +
 +
It's usually cheaper to buy the Aquapure 1400 cell kit that comes with the cell, trisensor and power cord vs. buying the parts separately.
 +
 +
If the cell is old, just get the PLC1400 kit.
 +
 +
===Aquapure Not Taking Aqualink Changes===
 +
 +
Aqualink prevents the Aquapure system from proper operation without a functioning water temperature signal from the Aqualink stand alone water temperature sensor, regardless of what the SWG flow sensor says.
 +
 +
It appears that Aqualink stops talking to Aquapure when the Aqualink water temperature sensor is inoperative.<ref>https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/will-a-new-water-temp-sensor-fix-this-aquapure-swg-scenario.243392/</ref>
 +
 +
Changes to Aquapure settings made on Aqualink will not show on the Aquapure and the chlorine % will be 0.
 +
 +
If the Aquapure is disconnected from the Aqualink, then you should be able to set chlorine production from the front panel on the Aquapure.
  
 
===Jandy PDA not displaying AquaPure info===
 
===Jandy PDA not displaying AquaPure info===
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A member had the problem of his Aquapure resetting to 35% every time it was powered on by the timer.<ref>https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/aquapure-keeps-resetting-to-chlorine-rate-35-from-pool-pump-timer.197670/post-1743853</ref>  After discussions with a Jandy representative it was determined the problem was a bad board.
 
A member had the problem of his Aquapure resetting to 35% every time it was powered on by the timer.<ref>https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/aquapure-keeps-resetting-to-chlorine-rate-35-from-pool-pump-timer.197670/post-1743853</ref>  After discussions with a Jandy representative it was determined the problem was a bad board.
 +
 +
===Salinity Calibration===
 +
 +
You can check the calibration by doing the following below procedure.
 +
 +
*If the unit reads 2.8 gpl for salinity, then the unit has not been recalibrated.
 +
*If the unit does not read 2.8 gpl for salinity, then the unit has been recalibrated.
 +
 +
You can recalibrate the unit if you are really sure about the actual salinity and you want the box to match your readings.
 +
 +
Test procedure:
 +
 +
*Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the front board. Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp.
 +
*While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.
 +
*While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It should read 75° F or 24° C.
 +
*Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .
 +
 +
===Salinity Recalibration procedure===
 +
 +
*Press the “Salinity” button and hold it until it beeps 3 times. The system will beep when you push it and then at 5 seconds and again at 10 seconds.
 +
*Release the button after the 3rd beep. Press and release the “Temperature “ button within 5 seconds to enter the salinity calibration screen.
 +
*The system will display the salinity reading, press the up arrow to increase the reading and the down arrow to decrease the reading.
 +
*When the proper reading is reached press the “Temperature” button within 5 seconds to store it in memory.
 +
 +
See pages 13-14 in [https://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/jandy-aqua-pure-error-codes.pdf Jandy AquaPure Troubleshooting].
 +
 +
===Aquapure Display Garbled===
 +
 +
[[File:Jandy Aquapure Display Garbled.jpg|thumb]]
 +
 +
Check the ribbon cable and reboot the system.
  
 
===Power Center Transformer===
 
===Power Center Transformer===

Latest revision as of 18:41, 10 March 2024

Jandy AquaPure SWG

Jandy AquaPure SWG User Interface.png
Jandy Aquapure SWG.jpg

The Jandy AquaPure system consists of a AquaPure Power Center or PureLink Power Centers and either a PURE700 cell or a PURE1400 cell. The PureLink Power Centers combine all the features of the AquaLink Power Centers and AquaPure water purification electronics in one box.

Jandy Purelink Aquapure open.jpg
Jandy Aquapure Power Interface Board.jpg

The AquaPure salt-water chlorine sanitizing systems uses salt water to deliver water sanitation by generating chlorine.

The AquaPure cells can be controlled by the AquaPure user interface inside the control/power center or by the Aqualink automation systems.

AquaPure Cell Capacity

The AquaPure system offers two cells that can generate different maximum amounts of chlorine in a 24 hour period. You use the % generation control to adjust the actual amount of chlorine generated to meet your pools chlorine need.

  • PURE700 - 0.625 lb./24 Hr. (283 gm/24 Hr.)
  • PURE1400 - 1.25 lb./24 Hr. (567 gm/24 Hr.)

Model Configuration

Jandy AquaPure Cell Configuration.png

Both cells use the same Power Center box. However there is a jumper on the Power Interface Board that is connected for the 1400 cell and cut for the 700 cell. The Power Center comes configured for the 1400 cell and the JL1 jumper must be cut if using the 700 cell.

Jandy Aquapure JL1 Cut.png

Aquapure Jumper.jpg

If you are switching from the 700 cell to the 1400 cell the JL1 jumper needs to be reconnected.

The PLC700's have a 2 prong plug system and the PLC1400's have a 3 prong plug system.

Page 17 in the Jandy Power Center Installation Manual shows the location of the jumper.

Jandy Tri-Sensor

The Jandy tri-sensor measures water flow, salinity, and water temperature.

The AquaPure does not have a flow switch, it has a flow sensor, which is a heated probe and and unheated probe and it works on the same principle as "wind chill".[1]

If you have a No-Flow error try resetting the circuit breaker and re-calibrating the tri-sensor before you consider replacing it.

You can find instructions for replacing and calibrating the tri-sensor in the AquaPure and PureLink Tri-Sensor Adapter Installation Kit Manual.

What is the Software number on the CPU?

If it’s 02110A10 or 01220A15, you use program A, otherwise you use program B on the in-line module on the trisensor cord. Don’t use the little adaptor card between the cord plug and the circuit board.

Here is a test you can do to diagnose the trisensor.

Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the board.

Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It should read 75° F or 24° C.

Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .

If the readings are correct then the board is O.K. and the problem is with the flow sensor. On the other hand if the readings are different then it indicates that there is a problem with the board.

Salinity

With the AquaPure 1400, the reading is in grams per liter, which is the same as 1,000 ppm. 3 gpl is 3,000 ppm.

If the salinity is above 4.0 gpl, the unit will cut off and give error code 145 (High Salinity).

The Salinity button C on the sanitizer user interface keypad can be used to determine salinity.

  • 3.0 to 3.5 gpl of salt is recommended for optimum water conditions.
  • Low salt concentration below 2.0 gpl will cause premature cell failure.
  • High salt concentration above 4.0 gpl may damage the power center.

Make sure that the salt is very well mixed by brushing thoroughly at least 5 times.

If the actual salinity is above 4.0 gpl (4,000 ppm), the pool needs to be diluted to get the level below 4.0 gpl.

The manual says that the unit can be damaged, which could void the warranty.

Aquapure Cell Replacement

When the cell needs replacement you should replace the cell, tri sensor, and power cord. They are sold as a kit.[2]

You will also find the cell sold alone at a lower price then the kit and it is tempting to buy only the cell. The PLC1400 cell is Jandy P/N R0452400.

The Flow & Salinity Sensor is Jandy P/N R0452500.

The PureLink DC Cord is Jandy P/N R0402800.

Replace the Power Cord When you Replace the Cell

When replacing the cell, it's important to replace the power cord so that the connections are clean and the resistance is minimized.[3]

The prongs are sealed by O-rings and a compression plate held down by two screws. The problem is that the O-rings can leak, which creates a corrosive mix of water, salt, hydrogen gas and chlorine gas. This corrosion increases the resistance of the connection and generates a lot of heat due to the high current of 6 to 8 amps.

The center prong is the most common point of failure. You can usually see evidence of a leak when you know to look for it.

Jandy cell prongs LI.jpg

Replacing Cracked Union

Jandy uses a proprietary thread on their unions.

You can get this kit and cutout your unions and glue in a pipe and then replace the unions...

Jandy Aquapure 3-port Cell Union Kit

Audible Alarm

The audible alarm is described on page 34 of the Jandy® Pro Series AquaPure®/PureLink™ Power Center and Cell Kit | Installation and Operation Manual.[4]

Adjusting the audible alarm volume is also described on page 34 of the Installation Manual.

The audible alarm can be permanently disabled by removing the jumper from J2 on the control/power center Power Interface Board (PIB).

Jandy Aquapure J2 Audible Alarm.png

Cold Water Operation

From Page 39 of the Installation Manual:

Below 51°F (11°C), chlorine production is not permitted; operating the chlorinator in cold water might result in over-chlorinated pool water. If more chlorine is needed, activating the “Boost” mode will override this cold water feature allowing chlorine production for 24 hours of operation.

This applies to the Jandy AquaPure and the Nature2 FusionSoft as they are sister products. An optional "Spool" Piece (sold separately) used to be available to replace the cell during winterizing or cell maintenance. This piece has been discontinued and is no longer available. In addition, the AquaPure threads are proprietary and Jandy does not offer replacement proprietary unions (the "male" piece).

If removing the cell is desired so that water may circulate without the cell, specialized plumbing would need to be added during installation of the cell. One method is an additional PVC union after each end of the cell. This method would require the purchase of 4 unions. 2 for when the cell is installed and 1/2 of the other 2 unions (the "male" 1/2) for creation of the bypass pipe.

When a FREEZE CONTROLLER is used on pump equipment and the chlorinator is run through the winter, turn the CHLORINE PRODUCTION down to 10 - 20%.

Jandy SP3P Dummy Cell

Jandy has the Jandy SP3P Dummy Cell Cleaning Kit that includes everything you need to remove, clean, store, and/or bypass your Jandy AquaPure 3-Port Salt Cell.

You can remove your cell for winter and install the dummy cell.

AquaPure Cycle Time

The AquaPure has a 3 hour polarity cycle time (3 hours one polarity, 3 hours reverse polarity). The production cycle time used for chlorine production (observationally) is 30 minutes. The percentage setting will control how much the cell runs during the production cycle.[5]

For example, at 50%, the cell will run for 15 minutes and off for 15 minutes. Polarity will change every 3 hours.

Boost – 24 Hour 100% Chlorine Production Cycle.

To Enter Boost Mode Press and Hold “Temperature” Button 10 Seconds

Jandy Warranty

Here is an excerpt from page 423 (892)[6] of their 2019 catalog:[7]

"This Jandy Limited Warranty does not apply to Jandy branded products purchased through the Internet or other e-commerce platforms, with the exception of Jandy branded valves, parts, and accessories. This warranty applies only to products installed and serviced by a contractor who is licensed and qualified in pool equipment by the jurisdiction in which the product will be installed, where such state or local requirements exists. In the event no such state or local requirement exists, the installer and maintainer must be a professional with sufficient experience in pool equipment installation and maintenance."

Here's another item of interest from p 877:

IMPORTANT NOTICE NO WARRANTY if purchased online. This is not a DIY product. Installation by a qualified pool professional required. Register product at Jandy.com/registration.

Replacing Old Square Jandy PLC700/1400 Cell

Jandy switched to a 3-port cell design to aid in cleaning and plumbing flexibility and no longer makes 2-port cells. However, the Jandy PLC700 cell kit (for pools up to 12,000 gallons) and the PLC1400 (with a 40,000 gallon capacity) kit contain new cells as well as all the necessary accessories to switch a 2-port setup to the new design.[8]

Adjustments to the wiring are:

  • Red goes to green and blue goes to black/white.
  • The sensor connects to the same spot. If there's a little adapter card between the old sensor cord and the circuit board, remove the adapter card.
  • Look at the label on the CPU for the firmware revision.
  • If the power interface board firmware is 02110A10 or 01220A15, you use program A for the trisensor. All other firmware uses program B on the trisensor inline module.

Troubleshooting

The Jandy AquaPure, PureLink & Nature² Fusion Soft Workbook gives a lot of good information on installation and troubleshooting.

Also Jandy AquaPure Troubleshooting.

Pin Corrosion

A common reason for the cell failing and getting error codes 120, 121 or 123 is one or more of the pins corroding and separating from its plate. Most common is the center pin.[9]

You can remove the two screws holding down the plate over the prongs and check the base of the prongs.

The cell cannot be repaired even though the plates may have life left in them.

Some members add dielectric grease to the pins when they do their annual work on the filter and check the cell.

  • Corroded Plate

  • Pins Missing

  • Screws to Remove

  • Screws Removed

  • Center Pin Gone

  • Jandy PLC1400 Corroded Center Pin Side View.jpg

Jandy Aquapure Error Codes

Error 120

120 is low current. That can be from low salt, low water temperature, a bad power cord, cell plates corroded or loose power pins. Make sure that temp is above 60, salt is 3400, power cord is good and look in the cell at the plates with a good light from both ends to see if the plates are corroded.

Error 121

A 121 error can occur for a number of different reasons: dirty cell, damaged cell, bad cell cable, low salt level, cell wearing out due to age, or damaged power supply.

Test the salt level with a K-1766 Taylor Salt Test.

Error 123

That error is low or no current to the cell. First thing to check is the cord. Look for heavy corrosion at both ends. You can sometimes fix it by cleaning off the corrosion.[10]

Also look inside the cell at the cord end. The three pins go inside and connect to the plates. If one of them is rotted away, it's time for a new cell and cord.

Otherwise the back circuit board may need replacement.

Cell Amperage

You can check the amperage to verify if the cell is generating. The 700 cell has half the number of plates as the 1400 cell. In this thread, the amperage of the 1400 cell tests at about 5.6 amps, and the amperage of the 700 cell should test at about 2.8 amps.[11]

Burnt Tri-Sensor Center Pin

Jandy Aquapure Tri-Sensor.jpg

When the tri-sensor fails the salinity will be incorrect or you will get a no-flow error.

Note that the center prong is on the cell where the power cord connects to the cell. This issue is with the trisensor, which is a separate part that installs in the cell.

It's usually cheaper to buy the Aquapure 1400 cell kit that comes with the cell, trisensor and power cord vs. buying the parts separately.

If the cell is old, just get the PLC1400 kit.

Aquapure Not Taking Aqualink Changes

Aqualink prevents the Aquapure system from proper operation without a functioning water temperature signal from the Aqualink stand alone water temperature sensor, regardless of what the SWG flow sensor says.

It appears that Aqualink stops talking to Aquapure when the Aqualink water temperature sensor is inoperative.[12]

Changes to Aquapure settings made on Aqualink will not show on the Aquapure and the chlorine % will be 0.

If the Aquapure is disconnected from the Aqualink, then you should be able to set chlorine production from the front panel on the Aquapure.

Jandy PDA not displaying AquaPure info

Many AquaPure display problems seem to get fixed by powering the Power Center and Aqualink panel if connected off at the circuit breakers, waiting a few minutes, and powering everything back on.[13]

AquaPure Resets to 35% Everytime it is Powered On

A member had the problem of his Aquapure resetting to 35% every time it was powered on by the timer.[14] After discussions with a Jandy representative it was determined the problem was a bad board.

Salinity Calibration

You can check the calibration by doing the following below procedure.

  • If the unit reads 2.8 gpl for salinity, then the unit has not been recalibrated.
  • If the unit does not read 2.8 gpl for salinity, then the unit has been recalibrated.

You can recalibrate the unit if you are really sure about the actual salinity and you want the box to match your readings.

Test procedure:

  • Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the front board. Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp.
  • While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.
  • While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It should read 75° F or 24° C.
  • Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .

Salinity Recalibration procedure

  • Press the “Salinity” button and hold it until it beeps 3 times. The system will beep when you push it and then at 5 seconds and again at 10 seconds.
  • Release the button after the 3rd beep. Press and release the “Temperature “ button within 5 seconds to enter the salinity calibration screen.
  • The system will display the salinity reading, press the up arrow to increase the reading and the down arrow to decrease the reading.
  • When the proper reading is reached press the “Temperature” button within 5 seconds to store it in memory.

See pages 13-14 in Jandy AquaPure Troubleshooting.

Aquapure Display Garbled

Jandy Aquapure Display Garbled.jpg

Check the ribbon cable and reboot the system.

Power Center Transformer

Older Power Centers use a rectangle transformer P/N T1005 that is no longer available. Currently, Jandy has part R0481400 which is the round transformer.

A member found that the new part fit perfectly with the same mounting holes. Even the High Voltage side wires were color coded identically. The only difference is the new part has a ground wire that was attached to the common ground.[15]

  • Jandy T1005

  • Jandy R0481400

  • Jandy T1005

  • Jandy T1005 Burnt Plug

  1. ↑ https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/need-intelliflo-and-jandy-aquapure-1400-folks.254612/post-2226671
  2. ↑ https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/plc1400-and-r0452400-compatible.260746/#post-2280305
  3. ↑ https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/six-month-old-jandy-plc1400-smoking-melting-rubber-wire-connector.198600/post-1752937
  4. ↑ https://www.jandy.com/-/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0325600.pdf
  5. ↑ https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/aquapure-cycle-time-wiki-correction.264622/#post-2321916
  6. ↑ http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/1a29b06c#/1a29b06c/892
  7. ↑ https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/when-did-jandy-declare-war-on-diy.176586/post-1558946
  8. ↑ https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/jandy-old-square-salt-cell-replacement.201262/
  9. ↑ https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/jandy-aquapure-1400-error-120.236117/
  10. ↑ https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/aquapure-1400-receiving-error-code-123.46288/post-387518
  11. ↑ https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/jandy-aquapure-plc-700-not-producing-chlorine.220478/post-1929929
  12. ↑ https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/will-a-new-water-temp-sensor-fix-this-aquapure-swg-scenario.243392/
  13. ↑ https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/jandy-pda-wasnt-displaying-aquapure-info.194647/post-1715658
  14. ↑ https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/aquapure-keeps-resetting-to-chlorine-rate-35-from-pool-pump-timer.197670/post-1743853
  15. ↑ https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/jandy-power-center-transformer-replacement-aquapure.194422/
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