ZODIAC NATURE2 FUSION SOFT 1400 REPLACEMENT CELL Cracked.

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adamwallace

Member
Feb 28, 2020
22
Ontario, Canada.
Hi - We have a brand new pool opened in July of this year. We just had it closed and the Nature2 Cell was removed for winter. The casing is already cracked. I opened a call with service but would like opinions so I know what to say when the PB gets back to me. TIA
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Can't really tell. You will need to clean the cell and see if it works.

Have you ever cleaned the cell?

You need to keep the CSI between -0.3 and 0.0. Don't let the CSI go above 0.0.

Check the cell weekly for scale until you can get an idea about how much scale is accumulating over time.
 

Aquapure 1400 121 Error

Oh - Ha - he was confused how I had chlorine in the water he measured it as a "3". I told him I would start adding chlorine probably tomorrow since it was getting low. And he says no I mean why do you have chlorine now since this is not working are you adding it? Your chlorine level is fine. I...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Here is a cell breakdown so that you can get a better idea how it works and how it's constructed.
 
The cell needs to be cleaned when your water is unbalanced, as yours appears to be. The manual outlines cleaning procedures. I have the same cell which I inspected after 3 seasons and the cell had no calcium deposits at all. Jandy is very good with warranty and even though your cell shows unbalanced water, they still may replace it under warranty. I suggest you read pool school on this site to learn how to maintain your water so that your equipment and swimmers are happy!
 
Also, while you're being told to clean the cell..... you ONLY want to clean it when you see scale because each time its cleaned a bit of the magic metal that makes it all work (yay!) is lost. It shortens the cell's lifespan.

Try using a blast of plain water first, and if that isn't enough then move on to the more aggressive cleaning tactics.

Maddie :flower:
 

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adamwallace said:
Thanks everyone. The PB is replacing the cell. We will work on getting the PH / TA under control next season. We had our water tested several times when the pool was open and everything was showing good except TA/ PH.
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How are you testing your water? Do you have a Taylor/TF-100 or other proper test kit? The foundation for successful pool ownership is owner testing and chemical adjustment. Almost certainly if you are relying on your builder and/or pool store it isn't going to end well. Fixing TA/PH is not going to do much for the issue your cell experienced.
 
adamwallace said:
Local pool store was doing our water testing. Their reports show Saturation Index, Salt, pH, TA, Calcium hardness, Free Chlorine, Total Chlorine, CYA.
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Pool store testing is typically wildly inaccurate and rarely repeatable. Bring the same sample to 3 stores and you'll get 3 different results. Take the same sample to the same store and chances are you'll get different results. Pool stores are in business to sell products like bio-guard (and other useless/near useless) products. TFP has no skin in the game (the site doesn't even allow ads). We are here to help pool-owners have the best pool experience they can.

Also I wanted to ask, are you using the mineral cartridge with your FusionSoft? We do no support minerals being used in a pool. They are not a replacement for a sanitizer like chlorine nor do they reduce the level of sanitizer that you need.

Here is a good article on unnecessary "extras" that builders and pool stores try to sell you. Non-Recommended Pool Chemicals - Trouble Free Pool
 
Guess I learned a lesson. New pool owner, will buy a test kit for next season and read up on 'pool school'. Yes, there is a mineral cartridge. We went with a pool installer who has been around for 50+ years with numerous locations. Their service is excellent. We trusted they knew what they were doing. Questioned that later when they had set the salt system to run 50% of the time which was wrong. Are you saying on top of the salt we should be adding chlorine to the pool? It was shocked with chlorine at startup.
 
adamwallace said:
Guess I learned a lesson. New pool owner, will buy a test kit for next season and read up on 'pool school'. Yes, there is a mineral cartridge. We went with a pool installer who has been around for 50+ years with numerous locations. Their service is excellent. We trusted they knew what they were doing. Questioned that later when they had set the salt system to run 50% of the time which was wrong. Are you saying on top of the salt we should be adding chlorine to the pool? It was shocked with chlorine at startup.
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Your Nature2 FusionSalt is a saltwater chlorine generator. Your pool is a "chlorine" pool, it just creates its own chlorine. Your salt level is about 10% of what the ocean is. You should not need to add any additional chlorine unless you have an issue with sanitation or algae.

I have found the ones that have "been in business for 50 years" are the ones that know the least about anything modern. They not only started their company 50 years ago, they also stopped learning anything new in their industry 50 years ago.

I run no mineral cartridge in my FusionSoft. I just left in the block-out plate that was in it when it was installed. Your builder probably took your blockout plate when he put the mineral cartridge in. Perhaps you can get it back as they don't sell them and they are hard to come by. As an alternative, you can take apart an old mineral cartridge and just use the top. I run my variable speed pump 24 hours a day at low speed and set my saltwater generator at around 50%. That keeps my chlorine level around 7 which is inline (10%) with my CYA level of 70.

BTW: Which FusionSoft do you have? The 700 or the 1400 series?
 
adamwallace said:
Guess I learned a lesson. New pool owner, will buy a test kit for next season and read up on 'pool school'. Yes, there is a mineral cartridge. We went with a pool installer who has been around for 50+ years with numerous locations. Their service is excellent. We trusted they knew what they were doing. Questioned that later when they had set the salt system to run 50% of the time which was wrong. Are you saying on top of the salt we should be adding chlorine to the pool? It was shocked with chlorine at startup.
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No harm, no foul.. we are here to educate. And don't be afraid to ask questions. The old school Pool guys have typically not kept up with the changes in the industry. Even if you visit other pool support websites you will see a difference in the advice they give compared to ours. The TFP methodology is pretty well thought out. So be careful if you try to mix and match advice from other places. You can get yourself real confused if you do.
 
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PoolGate said:
Your Nature2 FusionSalt is a saltwater chlorine generator. Your pool is a "chlorine" pool, it just creates its own chlorine. Your salt level is about 10% of what the ocean is. You should not need to add any additional chlorine unless you have an issue with sanitation or algae.

I have found the ones that have "been in business for 50 years" are the ones that know the least about anything modern. They not only started their company 50 years ago, they also stopped learning anything new in their industry 50 years ago.

I run no mineral cartridge in my FusionSoft. I just left in the block-out plate that was in it when it was installed. Your builder probably took your blockout plate when he put the mineral cartridge in. Perhaps you can get it back as they don't sell them and they are hard to come by. As an alternative, you can take apart an old mineral cartridge and just use the top. I run my variable speed pump 24 hours a day at low speed and set my saltwater generator at around 50%. That keeps my chlorine level around 7 which is inline (10%) with my CYA level of 70.

BTW: Which FusionSoft do you have? The 700 or the 1400 series?
Click to expand...

1400 series. I actually do have the block-out plate here. Yeah, we run the pump 24 hours a day. I had the generator at around 30% near the end of season and salt was reading 3200 PPM which I think is good. CYA and Chlorine were both a little low compared to optimal during water testing.
 
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