Zero free chlorine??

Brandin

New member
Jan 6, 2021
2
Ann Arbor Michigan
Pool Size
450
Surface
Vinyl
No matter what chemicals I add to my hot tub I cannot seem to make my free chlorine levels go up. It stays at zero. Been trying different shocks and such for about 3 weeks now.
Right now it says my total chlorine is good.
Free chlorine is zero
Ph is around 7.6
Alkalinity is at 140
Cya cyanaric acid is right around zero



as a side note (if it makes a difference) I am using the frog @ease chlorine/mineral system.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
A few questions.

How are you testing the water? Depending on the types of shock products you have been using I would be surprised if your CYA is "right around zero", so I suspect you might be using test strips.

How old is the hot tub and has it ever been purged with a product like ahhsome?

How often is it being used?
 
It would be a good idea to invest in a better testing method. I use the TF100 kit available from tftestkits.net. It has all the tests you need and is very reliable.

Chlorine is in the water when you add it, but it is consumable. As you soak in the tub, you are consuming chlorine. When you get out, anything left behind will consume chlorine.

You should read this article if you haven't already. Spa & Hot Tub Maintenance A Basic Guide - Trouble Free Pool
 
Hey Brandin and Welcome !! Some things to consider : First things first is an accurate test kit as said above. The ‘guess strips’ as they’re known around here aren’t worth the paper they’re attached to. They will let you know there IS chlorine in the water, but how MUCH chlorine is anybody’s guess. So you can’t possibly know what you have, to know what you should do about it. The PH and TA part of the strips are only even close if you decipher the right shade at exactly 15 seconds later. Any more or less and the color changed again. Or there’s an extra drop of water on the pad so it doesn’t read right (not that it would be right in the first place).

A hot tub can swing so much faster than a large pool that proper testing is even more critical.

Also consider the proportions. One person in a 500 gallon hot tub is the same as 75 people would have been in my 35k gallon pool. Imagine how fast my pool would have clouded up from the body oils, sweat and other organic nasties. If you have 3 people in your hot tub, that’s literally the same gallons per people as 225 people in my pool. Let that sink in for a minute. :)

I had no idea how much gunk we carried before my hot tub. Suits fresh from the washer would foam from residual laundry sauces and hair fresh from the shower would leech shampoo and conditioner. and then we were all sweating in 104 degree water which was exfoliating our dead skin.

Case and point is that although a few uses per week is considered 'normal usage' for hot tubbing, it is a ridiculously high amount of usage from a chemistry standpoint compared to a pool. As such it requires far more treating to maintain the balanced water. smaller doses like 1/4 cup of bleach compared to gallons of bleach in a pool, but you may need to add them every 45 mins if you're having a long evening in the tub.

And yup, you guessed it, without a reliable testing method, its a random guess of where you are and how to get to where you should be.
 
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The @ease system has a particular type of bound chlorine that creates a "reservoir" of sorts. Usually there is no more than about 0.5 ppm of FC present at any point, the remainder is bound into a type of chlorine that will show up as combined chlorine, or CCs, on a CC test. I suspect your strips are not capable of measuring a FC that low.

That said, I've seen a detailed, reliable review of the @ease system here, and the author ended up switching away from it for a couple of reasons. For automatic chlorine additions a saltwater chlorine generator (SWCG) is in many ways a better choice than the @ease system. Along with a good quality drop based test kit containing an FAS-DPD test, as has been outlined here.
 
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An ahhsome purge & refill then following the dichlor then bleach (liquid chlorine) method mentioned above is the way to get back on track. Total chlorine is free chlorine(good) + combined chlorine (bad).
When cc’s are more than 1ppm you need to go to slam level for your cya FC/CYA Levelswith liquid chlorine until they go down. Use PoolMath to calculate additions.
It is often simpler to purge/ refill in a spa than to go the slam route. Especially if cc’s are persistently high.
You have not listed the actual chemical names for the “types of shock” you have been using but
Note that use of MPS will falsely register as cc’s when testing and dichlor contains stabilizer (cya)
Definitely read up onABCs of Pool Water Chemistry for a better understanding.
 
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