Zero Current / No Chlorine

[smwalkley]

Most SWG systems throw a HIGH SALT alarm above 4500ppm and they will stop generating to protect the electronics. High salinity means low resistance which will cause the electrical current to exceed safe levels. If you know you have a good cell and electronics are still functional, then you need to drain and replace water in the pool to get the salinity down. At 5700ppm, you’re probably looking at draining half the pool water.

Understood and thank you. The tech recommended draining half the pool so at least that jives. Just frustrating the cell is alarming about low salt. Overall minimal effort to drain and refill half the pool to see if that helps. Otherwise i'm guessing it's either the new cell is bad or the main board is bad.

 

[smwalkley]

See above reply. Cells don’t work with overly high salinity so you gotta drain anyway. Might as well drain and see if your existing cell starts working.

Understood and thank you. Makes sense. Will do that and if it still doesn't work i think we've narrowed it down to the cell or the main board.

 

[smwalkley]

Most SWG systems throw a HIGH SALT alarm above 4500ppm and they will stop generating to protect the electronics. High salinity means low resistance which will cause the electrical current to exceed safe levels. If you know you have a good cell and electronics are still functional, then you need to drain and replace water in the pool to get the salinity down. At 5700ppm, you’re probably looking at draining half the pool water.

Understood and thank you. The tech suggested draining half the pool so I'm glad that jives with what you're suggesting. If draining the pool a bit and rebalancing the chemistry doesn't do the trick then I think that narrows it down to a faulty cell or a faulty main board.

 

[smwalkley]

Just updating this post if for no other reason than for someone searching in the future. We finally solved the issue. We drained the pool half way, refilled, and the salt was back to normal ranges around 3200ppm. We still had the zero current issue so we were able to get a Hayward tech to come onsite who re-flashed the electronics and upgraded the firmware (the version we were on was very old). After the upgrade the salt cell is now producing a current, is correctly reading the instant/average salt, and is generally working as it should. There was no need to replace any circuitry it was simply bad software. We even had the old T-15 cell tested at Leslie and it showed to still be working so we put that back on there and now have a new one spare for when the old one craps out. Thanks to you all who helped me out these last few months, much appreciated.