Working on getting a new 24' above ground pool going

[Mike Edwards]

We just finished getting our above ground pool filled about a week ago. The pool builder suggested I come here to learn about how to maintain it. I've been reading and reading and just got my Taylor K-2006 kit today. I also got some Aquacheck test strips to give myself a sanity check and to build my confidence in the testing.

The pool was built with a Pentair Rainbow Chlorine feeder. But I've since read that that's not necessarily what I want to use. After filling the pool, the builder came back and checked everything and loaded the chlorinator with 3" pucks and set it on ~.5. No idea what units that .5 might compare to but it's 0-5 total. I understand that while this will feed FC, it will also add CYA and at some point that will be so high the FC becomes unmanageable. He also added some Borax and two gallons of 6% bleach. I added two bottles Monday. The water has always been crystal clear.

Today I did my first water test with the Taylor kit.

FC = 0 It never turned pink
CC = 0
PH = 7.6
CYA = 0 There was no cloudiness after mixing the reagent with the water in the sample bottle
I didn't check CH because it's a vinyl liner.

A strip confirmed the zero's but the PH appeared lower. I'll go with the taylor kit results on that.

My questions:

Since he filled the chlorinator with pucks, can I just let that run until the CYA gets up? It took 9 pucks and he said that should keep everything good for a month. After the CYA get's to a good level then I'll switch to Bleach only. Is there a downside to this other than running the pool low on CYA for a while?

Does anyone have a recommendation on a flow rate setting on that chlorinator to keep any level of FC present? I understand that flow rate might need to drop as CYA comes up. Otherwise I'm just going to raise it .5 each day until I start showing some FC.

 

[spinPHD]

You can use pucks, but I would recommend just getting stabilizer separately to get it to 30 and then use bleach/liquid chlorine exclusively for sanitation. It really takes a longer time, and you will probably waste more money on replacement reagents because you need to monitor FC and cya more closely, than if you just bought a $12-$15 bottle of stabilizer and got numbers dialed in right now.

 

[Mike Edwards]

Ok, that makes sense. I can see that the CYA reagent won't last but about 3 tests per bottle. I'll shut off the chlorine feeder and leave the pucks in it to use it if we go away for vacation.

I'll pick up some stabilizer today on my way home.

 

[Holydoc]

Mike, I know you will enjoy your new pool. I bought a 27' AG last year and have loved it.

I would also recommend getting your CYA to 30 and your FC up to 6. Liquid chlorine or bleach would be the best way to raise your FC. The other advantage here is that with 30 CYA, your FC will be more protected and thus you will not loose it so quickly. Currently with no CYA, you will have a very difficult time keeping any chlorine in the pool.

You did not give a TA reading. TA will help stabilize your pH. You want to get the right amount where your pH does not drop or climb too fast. My TA is usually kept fairly high, around 80-90, which keeps my pH stable around 7.6. Yours will vary according to your pool. I would start with a TA around 40 or 50 and check my pH for a week. If it continues to drift down, then add Baking Soda to raise your TA to 60. Continue to do this until you find your water staying stable on a certain pH.

Most of all... Have fun and enjoy that pool!

 

[Mike Edwards]

I had left the chlorine feeder on 2 and the pump has run about 6 hours since I checked yesterday.

FC = 1
CC = 0
TA = 60
PH = 7.4
CYA= 0

I shut the chlorine feeder off and I'm going to add 2 lbs. of CYA to a sock in the skimmer. The pool math says 3.4lbs to get me up to 30, but I I want to sneak up on it.

I'm also going to add 1/2 gallon of 10% bleach.