Wiring questions

May 30, 2018
20
Cynthiana KY
Good afternoon all,
I hope this is the right forum to ask this in. Our pool is going to be installed tomorrow and I am a trying to get the wiring in order for the pump and swg. I am by no means an electrician but have done my fair share. Can someone please give me a good overview of a typical setup? I have a 1.5-HP 2-Speed Matrix Pump and a Solaxx Saltron Reliant Saltwater Chlorine Generator. I was doing to run 12/2 underground wire from the house breaker box that is a 20 amp single pole CAFI to a post behind the pool through pvc conduit. I was going to take that wire into an outdoor box. Is this correct? Also I know the SWG should only run if the pump is on, so I should also purchase some type of timer? Thanks, and any pics are greatly appreciated!
 
I'm not technically an electrician but I am in the electrical and solar trades and I'm very familiar with residential commercial wiring and NEC code.

20 amp 12/2 sounds good for a 1.5hp pump motor. I have a different Hayward cartridge filter setup with the 1.5 horsepower motor. No SWG.

I actually downloaded the manual to your Solaxx Saltron product. The timer is built in, and there are terminals for 120VAC on power supply of the Saltron to wire the Saltron to your pool pump. Depending on where you live and what your local building and electrical codes are as well as your frost line in the winter if applicable, the PVC pipe will have to be buried a certain amount of feet depending on your frost line to prevent from cracking in winter, and backfilled. Here is another thing with the regard to the legalities of installing your own electric as a homeowner. Technically you are allowed to extend a circuit or make it into a branch circuit that is already existing without having to pull a electrical permit from the town. If you are creating a new circuit with a new breaker, new wire, new box and circuit, etc, it typically will require you to pull a permit and electrical inspection. Whether you want to do that is totally up to you. Another thing I'd like to mention just for the sake of load balancing your electrical panel, and reducing getting built too much from your utility, and your electrical panel you have two main feeds coming in typically from the meter pan in residential. Black L1 Red L2, N and Ground. If you think about what is installed on your service panel. For example you have your dishwasher on L1 side and your electric dryer on L2 side, your dishwasher is 20 amps and electric dryer is 40 amps. Once I will be running higher amperage depending on how your appliances are stacked on that side if you understand what I mean. When this happens with poor distribution of load balancing on a panel the electric company wines up billing you for Peak demand which results in higher electric bills then intended. So when you add that 20 amp 12 to Circuit that's new, just keep in mind the design and layout of electrical panel on which side to add it to result in Optimal Performance.

Try downloading the manual from this link. I have taken the electrical information and copy it into here from the manual below.

salthttps://solaxx.com/products/reliant.html

Important Safety Instructions
Read and Follow All Instructions
All electrical work must be performed by a licensed electrician and conform to all national, state, and
local codes. Improper use or installation can badly harm the unit and its surroundings.
When installing and using this electrical equipment, basic safety precautions should always be
followed, including the following:
DO NOT OPEN THE SEALED COVER OF THE BOX – NOT A SERVICEABLE UNIT
● Disconnect all AC power before installation.
● WARNING – To reduce the risk of injury, do not permit children to use this product.
● The Control Box must be mounted vertically on a flat surface and at a minimum horizontal
distance of 5 ft (1.5m) (or more, if local codes so require) from the pool/spa.
● WARNING – Risk of electric shock. Connect only to a grounding type circuit protected by a
ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI) outlet. The installer should provide this GFCI requirement.
The GFCI should be rated for minimum 6 Amps and tested on a regular basis by pushing the test
button. If the GFCI fails to operate correctly, there is ground current flowing indicating the
possibility of electric shock. Do not use this unit.
Disconnect unit and have a qualified professional correct the problem before using.
● The Input circuit (LN1 & N/LN1) must be connected only after OVERCURRENT DEVICES, such
as fuse or circuit breaker to limit the amperage in the input wire to the maximum that is permitted
by the National Electrical Code.
● The Unit must be permanently connected, with copper wire, not less than 1.5 mm (14 Awg).
● The wiring of the unit must be performed according to the wiring instructions of this manual.
● A build-up of flammable fumes can result in a hazardous condition if the cell is allowed to operate
without flow. This device must be operated only with an approved inline flow sensor.
● The Flow Sensor must be installed between the last piece of apparatus and the Cell.
● Ensure that equipment and materials used in or around the pool and spa are compatible with salt-
based sanitation systems. Certain materials may be susceptible to salt and chlorine damage.
● ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER, NEVER WATER TO ACID.
● SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS.

1. The Power Supply Box must be mounted vertically on a flat surface and a minimum of 5 ft (1.5m)
horizontal distance (or more, if local codes require) from the pool/spa.
2. Locate a position for your Box within 8 ft of where the Cell will be installed and within 6 ft of the timer
box to ensure enough cable is available.
3. Because the box acts as a heat sink dispersing heat from inside the box, do not block the four sides
of the Control Box. Do Not mount the system above a heater or inside a panel or an enclosed area.

3.4 Wiring the Power Supply Box
Ground, L1,L2
Nor
Line
Timer
Pump
Power
Supply
Box
1. Connect the green wire to the Ground lug of the timer.
2. Connect the black Load wire from the chlorine generator to Load 1 of the time clock.
3. If wiring a 240 Volt system, connect the white wire with black shrink to Load 2 of the time clock. If wiring
a 120 Volt system, connect the white wire with black shrink to the Neutral lug on the timer and
REMOVE the black shrink tube.
120 VAC
CL
Power Supply
Green
Black / White
Black
Ground
Neutral Load 1
Remove Black
Heat Shrink
3.3 Install the Power Supply / Control Box
Power Supply Box
Mounting Configuration:
1
3 2
Screws and Anchor
Hardware Kit Included
240V Install 120V Install

3.5 Wiring the cell.
Connect the two black wires from the Power Supply Box to the two Quick-Connects on the sides of
the Cell. Ensure the connections are perfectly clean of any debris.
Note: these wires are interchangeable.

3.6 Wiring the Flow Sensor

Find the sensor cable from the Power Supply with the 4 small connect terminals and push them on
their respective connectors on the Flow and Temperature sensors. Polarity DOES NOT matter.


Hope this helps out with your question.
 
You can not, per NEC, use 12/2 or any other romex type wire for a pool circuit as they do not have insulated ground wires. You need to pull individual #12 THWN wires thru conduit and use an insulated ground wire as well. Article 680 of the NEC will be your friend here.
Dan
 
AGREE 100 % ... I ran mine with 12ga THHN (almost 20yrs ago), but I have now found out the codes have changed (as per the "Article 680 of the NEC")((which is WAY MORE PROTECTION than I put in )). DO NOT mess with electrical safety !!! The Codes are there for a reason! Good Luck !!!

P.S. PROPER grounding and BONDING are a MUST !!! No cutting corners !!!
 
Would not 12/3 be better? This way it gives a spare wire in case their is a issue in the future.

I assume bc is British columbia. I am not sure on canadian codes. In the US, you need to run the wiring with an insulated ground wire. No form of NM, UF or other cable assemblies (romex, 14/2, 12/2, etc ) have an insulated ground wire and are rated for burial. THWN (the w is for Wet) is really the only option and price wise, depending on where you purchase it, is the most cost effective and easiest to pull thru the conduit.

Dan
 
If you are running wire anyway, why not run for a 30 amp 220 volt circuit and wire a subpanel at your equipment pad? Larger if you are looking to get a heat pump some day. Now is the time to do this!
 
Would putting in a dual function CAFI and GFCI circuit breaker in the panel make the most sense so the wire is protected the whole way?

I am running 12-2 from the panel to an outside outlet on the house. Then I was thinking of running conduit from the bottom of that outside box to the equipment pad. I am guessing the conduit needs to contain 12 gauge THWN wires. I like the idea of running an extra one and making sure it is capped off on both ends with a wire nut in case it was ever needed.

If I wanted to run 1 or 2 CAT5e wires out to the pool equipment pad at the same time for future automation, I believe that cannot be in the conduit (due to the differences in voltage) but can they be in the same trench?
 

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Typically I get direct burial cable and forgo the conduit. I put conduit at the ends only coming up above ground. Just too much trouble trying to pull cable through conduit.
 
Direct burial cable is in violation of NEC code for any power cables feeding pool equipment. Uninsulated electrical ground wires are forbidden around pools. Direct burial cable has an uninsulated ground conductor.

Low voltage can be in the same trench but can not be in the same conduit or junction box as higher voltage wires. Low voltage is considered 24: or below, anything higher is considered high voltage in a pool environment.
 
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