Wiring Pool timer to filter pump help

[c_anthony27]

I am installing a brand new sub panel outside for the new semi above ground pool at the house

I have a question about wiring the filter pump, the light, and the wifi timer

I have a suraielac wifi timer
it controls 2 accessories ( filter, and light)

so i have it set up this way

from the sub panel circuit breaker
hot and neutral and ground to the wifi controller in the appropriate terminals

from the sub panel circuit breaker
- hot and neutral and ground to the outlet for the filter pump
from the outlet for the filter pump
- hot and neutral to the appropriate lugs on the wifi timer

from the sub panel circuit breaker
hot and neutral and ground to the outlet for the pool light
from the pool light outlet to the wifi timer
- hot and neutral to the appropriate lugs on the timer

so each outlet and the timer have its own breaker
is that the right way to do it

or should i be feeding the wifi timer with power from its own circuit breaker
and than the hot and neutral lines coming off of the wifi timer go to each outlet (filter pump & pool light) and thats it ?

nothing else connects to those outlets

thanks for any help

 

[nwardoh]

OK, this is wired for 2 loads off 2 breakers so ignore the right 2 posts.

Hot wire from breaker goes into the 3rd from the left. Use the red jumper that came with it from that terminal to the first one on the left. Neutral to terminal 2 on the left. Neutral to the pump also goes into that second terminal. Hot to the pump comes out of the 4th from the left which should be labeled CO1(commonly open 1). then grounds to ground.

This thing is just a smart switch. The wiring will be the same if you have one with the on board timer. Those first 2 terminals power the switch itself and then the 3rd/4th open and close the circuit to the pump based on the timer.

The timer uses next to no power so definitely don't feed it from a separate breaker, though it would work.

 

[c_anthony27]

OK, this is wired for 2 loads off 2 breakers so ignore the right 2 posts.

Hot wire from breaker goes into the 3rd from the left. Use the red jumper that came with it from that terminal to the first one on the left. Neutral to terminal 2 on the left. Neutral to the pump also goes into that second terminal. Hot to the pump comes out of the 4th from the left which should be labeled CO1(commonly open 1). then grounds to ground.

This thing is just a smart switch. The wiring will be the same if you have one with the on board timer. Those first 2 terminals power the switch itself and then the 3rd/4th open and close the circuit to the pump based on the timer.

The timer uses next to no power so definitely don't feed it from a separate breaker, though it would work.

View attachment 437755

ok
that makes sense

the only thing not clear to me is

am i running power to the outlets for the filter and light on their own circuit breakers also ?

meaning they are getting power direct from the sub panel ?

or are they getting power from the wifi timer ?

 

[nwardoh]

No, the power will go from breaker to timer to equipment. The timer just opens and closes the "hot" wire to turn things on and off. Think of it exactly as you would a light switch in your house.

 

[nwardoh]

Here is the rest of that picture.

Power comes off the breaker and goes through a GFCI(in the middle), then to the timer. I make my connections there through the switched portion and to power the timer. Then it heads down to that outlet to power the equipment.

 

[c_anthony27]

No, the power will go from breaker to timer to equipment. The timer just opens and closes the "hot" wire to turn things on and off. Think of it exactly as you would a light switch in your house.

thank you
thats what i was thinking also
just wanted to make sure

 

[nwardoh]

I'll add that it works very well. I actually bought the double version so I can control the salt water generator and the pump separately and will be swapping it out. I will use this single one for the lighting when we get to that point. Probably worth noting. If you have the 1 button version its all on and all off, you can not control the legs independently. If you have the one with 2 buttons then you can control them separate from each other.

 

[c_anthony27]

I'll add that it works very well. I actually bought the double version so I can control the salt water generator and the pump separately and will be swapping it out. I will use this single one for the lighting when we get to that point. Probably worth noting. If you have the 1 button version its all on and all off, you can not control the legs independently. If you have the one with 2 buttons then you can control them separate from each other.

i have the version that controls 2 pieces

so i think i am a little confused on how to do the filter pump outlet

i wanted that on its own 20 amp breaker

so i am sending a black line from the 20amp breaker in the sub panel (hot)
to the NO1 spot on the timer ? and than a black wire from that NO1 lug back to the outlet for the filter pump ?

or

1 black wire (hot) from the 20amp breaker from the sub panel
pigtail it so 1 wire goes to the timer in the NO1 slot
and the other tail goes down to the brass lug on the outlet for the filter pump ?

the neutrals i have all of them coming in to the wifi box
1 from the 15amp circuit breaker
1 from the light plug
1 from the filter pump plug
and they are pigtailed in a wire nut with 1 white wire going to the 2nd lug on the timer (N)

not sure which way i should handle that

thanks again for the help

 

[nwardoh]

Black wire from 1st breaker goes to Com1, then jumper from Com1 to L(first terminal)
Black wire to first outlet connects to NO1

Black wire from 2nd breaker connects to Com2, no jumper for this one.

Black wire to 2nd outlet connects to NO2

Pigtail your neutrals to the N(second) terminal as well as your grounds to the grounding lug. Connect the neutrals to the neutral screws on your outlets and the blacks to the appropriate brass screws on the outlets. Ground to the green screw.

That brass lug on the pump is for bonding and has nothing to do with the electric you are doing here.

Make sure your breakers are gfci otherwise you will need gfci between the sub panel and the timer. If you use GFCI after the timer they will likely be tripping all the time. You can then use regular outlets after the timer to actually plug your stuff into. GFCI dead faces will save a few bucks and a little easier to work with.

 

[c_anthony27]

Black wire from 1st breaker goes to Com1, then jumper from Com1 to L(first terminal)
Black wire to first outlet connects to NO1

Black wire from 2nd breaker connects to Com2, no jumper for this one.

Black wire to 2nd outlet connects to NO2

Pigtail your neutrals to the N(second) terminal as well as your grounds to the grounding lug. Connect the neutrals to the neutral screws on your outlets and the blacks to the appropriate brass screws on the outlets. Ground to the green screw.

That brass lug on the pump is for bonding and has nothing to do with the electric you are doing here.

Make sure your breakers are gfci otherwise you will need gfci between the sub panel and the timer. If you use GFCI after the timer they will likely be tripping all the time. You can then use regular outlets after the timer to actually plug your stuff into. GFCI dead faces will save a few bucks and a little easier to work with.

thank you

that makes more sense

i am using gcfi breakers on all the breakers in the sub panel

so my only question i have left is
if all the neutrals are pig tailed and run to that neutral lug on the timer

will they trip both breakers if there is an issue on just one line ?

i was thinking the neutral coming from the breaker for the pump filter (20amp breaker)
should just go right to its outlet
and and the black hots go to and from thw wifi timer

does that sound correct ?

 

[nwardoh]

You can do the neutrals either way. It shouldn't matter. I bypassed the neutral terminal for my second circuit on mine just so I didn't need to try and cram a pigtail in an already tight box. The neutrals are all tied together in the sub panel so it literally makes no difference how you do it.

 

[c_anthony27]

You can do the neutrals either way. It shouldn't matter. I bypassed the neutral terminal for my second circuit on mine just so I didn't need to try and cram a pigtail in an already tight box. The neutrals are all tied together in the sub panel so it literally makes no difference how you do it.

okay perfect

thanks again !!