I have a 24' above ground swimming pool with 2 main drains at the bottom. They come off the pump and split at a T, going to 2 drains. Can anyone tell me the best way to blow out both lines, so I can plug the drains to keep the water out over the cold winter months???
Winterizing dual main bottom drains
- Thread starter dualswim
- Start date
Can you take some pictures of the equipment pad, pump, filter, etc? You will have to push air through the system to remove the water (a lot of bubbling effect) and the main drains are probably hooked up to one area. Then, you either have to plug the line or shut off, creating an "air lock" in the lines. Do you have a valve that controls the follow the main drains and/or skimmers?
Depending on the length, an air compressor will work, and/or even possibly a shop vac. Longer distances require more of a pool blower, but we can start from here. Thank you.
Depending on the length, an air compressor will work, and/or even possibly a shop vac. Longer distances require more of a pool blower, but we can start from here. Thank you.
I have the exact same setup and I don't blow out or drain my main drains.
Pour RV antifreeze down your plumbing until you see it coming out both main drains (pink antifreeze is what I use and its easy to see). Should take you 2.5-3 gallons of antifreeze to fill your drain. Close your shutoffs and your done.
I have ball valves for my shutoffs and don't trust them. I feel they may leak, bringing pool water into my drain where it could freeze and break the plumbing. Because of this, I basically leave my plumbing attached. The skimmer basket and plumbing stays and the flexible line that connects to the pump gets removed from the pump and tied to the railing of the pool. This makes both these plumbing lines above the pools water level. I then pour antifreeze into the skimmer basket and into the plumbing line strapped to the pool railing. Now if my ball valve leaks (or just leave the valve open) it doesn't matter all the plumbing is above the waterline so no matter what there won't be an issue.
I rubber band a sandwich bag over the line strapped to the railing and I shove a sandwich bag into the skimmer overflow hole to prevent rain and snow getting in there over the winter.
Antifreeze is heavier than the water and is not going to move. In the spring I just undo the plumbing I strapped to the railing, lower it past the waterline and all the pink antifreeze comes pouring out.
Pour RV antifreeze down your plumbing until you see it coming out both main drains (pink antifreeze is what I use and its easy to see). Should take you 2.5-3 gallons of antifreeze to fill your drain. Close your shutoffs and your done.
I have ball valves for my shutoffs and don't trust them. I feel they may leak, bringing pool water into my drain where it could freeze and break the plumbing. Because of this, I basically leave my plumbing attached. The skimmer basket and plumbing stays and the flexible line that connects to the pump gets removed from the pump and tied to the railing of the pool. This makes both these plumbing lines above the pools water level. I then pour antifreeze into the skimmer basket and into the plumbing line strapped to the pool railing. Now if my ball valve leaks (or just leave the valve open) it doesn't matter all the plumbing is above the waterline so no matter what there won't be an issue.
I rubber band a sandwich bag over the line strapped to the railing and I shove a sandwich bag into the skimmer overflow hole to prevent rain and snow getting in there over the winter.
Antifreeze is heavier than the water and is not going to move. In the spring I just undo the plumbing I strapped to the railing, lower it past the waterline and all the pink antifreeze comes pouring out.
Have you ever tracked the temperatures through the cold months? How long does it stay in the 30's, 20's, or even longer.
I know people who do what you do. All comfort level. You would think the industry would come up with a better solution in the main drain. I also believe that if water would freeze that low, the ice expansion would be down to the bottom of the pool. With the water being in the low 40's or maybe lower, it would kind of melt.
I have a downspout that is hooked to PVC not even 3"-6" in the ground, under grass. Water sits all winter and freezes. Never had the pipe break in 2 years. The first year, I winterized and capped, but it was just too much work, so I left it alone. Same concept with main drain. If you have severe cold spells and frost lines well below or near the main drain, including bad drainage, then there could be some shifting underground causing all sorts of havoc.
Never tracked the temperatures here in Michigan. We seem to always get at least 2 weeks in the single digits. No idea if the pool has frozen solid or not.
I did my 1st year with the antifreeze and just the shut off, but was always so afraid the valve would leak. This is why I have been keeping the plumbing intact so any leak past the valve shouldn't matter. My buddy who has had his pool longer then me hires a guy to do his winterization and that guy just pours the antifreeze into the drain plumbing and shuts the ball valve when he sees pink antifreeze coming from both main drains.
Blowing the air out just seems like your on borrowed time before a tiny leak, lets all your air out and it fills your main drain back up with water.
I did my 1st year with the antifreeze and just the shut off, but was always so afraid the valve would leak. This is why I have been keeping the plumbing intact so any leak past the valve shouldn't matter. My buddy who has had his pool longer then me hires a guy to do his winterization and that guy just pours the antifreeze into the drain plumbing and shuts the ball valve when he sees pink antifreeze coming from both main drains.
Blowing the air out just seems like your on borrowed time before a tiny leak, lets all your air out and it fills your main drain back up with water.
I have released the main drain valve after closing it to see what happens. Yes, you are correct. Water does come gushing back in. But, in the spring, when I open the MD valve, the water does not behave in the same manner. The air will compress as it cools, so some water will get in the bottom of the pipe, but there is normally still enough air to keep the water below the frost line.I believe this only happens immediately and technically it is not lost air, but air that compresses during the cold weather.
I do not believe if a valve fails over time, the water will surface back. Air compression takes time under ground vs. the outside temperatures, which probably means that the process is over time, maybe as long as a month. With car tires, you could wake up to literally a flat tire because of overnight drops. I have seen a 5 PSI difference overnight, not because of air loss, but air compression in tires. Then again, my elevation is at 163 ASL (above sea level), while the bottom of the drain is at least 10 feet lower. This is all about physics and a little complicated.
The Cyclone is powerful enough to move most, if not all the water to 8'. Once air is trapped in there, eventually as the air compresses and cools, slowly water will fill back in the piping, but you will still be below the frost line. The idea of having water freeze, expand and contract does not sit well with pool owners.