Will this work for a Salt Water Chlorinator
- Thread starter captainstabbins
- Start date
Angle doesn't make a difference just cut out the chlorinator to give yourself more room. Need som more pictures for more guidance.
Cap,
Depending on the cell, water has to flow "up" through the cell and not down.
What cell do you plan to install?
Thanks,
Jim R.
Depending on the cell, water has to flow "up" through the cell and not down.
What cell do you plan to install?
Thanks,
Jim R.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,238
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I'm not sure the cell will fit between the inlet and outlet pipes. Once in hand, you can check for clearance. If it fits, you're good to go.
You have some options, but here are a few things to consider assuming your current plumbing is 2":
One option is to cut the outlet pipe as shown in the photo, loosen the union, and swing the pipe straight down to the ground (parallel to the inlet pipe). Cut the elbow off the check valve as shown. Run a 90 degree out from the pump to another 90 inline with the chlorinator. You should have room to fit the cell and the flow switch before the check valve. The check valve will accept a 2.5" coupler on the outside. Use a reducer bushing to get you back down to 2" pipe to connect to the SWG union.
If you decide to remove the chlorinator and check valve, you'll be left with a useless 2" coupler on the diverter valve. You could cut that coupler flush with the valve face and slip a 1.5" pipe inside. Then use a reducer bushing with 2" coupler to get you back up to 2" pipe size.
Just throwing a few ideas out there for you...
You have some options, but here are a few things to consider assuming your current plumbing is 2":
- You can loosen the union at the heater outlet, trim the pipe, and swing that pipe at any angle you want.
- Your check valve will accept two sizes of plumbing; 2" inside slip (pipe) which is currently used and 2.5" coupler/fitting on the outside of the socket. Use a 2.5" to 2" reducer bushing to connect pipe.
- Your diverter valves accept two sizes; 1.5" inside slip (pipe) or 2" coupling on the outside (currently used)
One option is to cut the outlet pipe as shown in the photo, loosen the union, and swing the pipe straight down to the ground (parallel to the inlet pipe). Cut the elbow off the check valve as shown. Run a 90 degree out from the pump to another 90 inline with the chlorinator. You should have room to fit the cell and the flow switch before the check valve. The check valve will accept a 2.5" coupler on the outside. Use a reducer bushing to get you back down to 2" pipe to connect to the SWG union.
If you decide to remove the chlorinator and check valve, you'll be left with a useless 2" coupler on the diverter valve. You could cut that coupler flush with the valve face and slip a 1.5" pipe inside. Then use a reducer bushing with 2" coupler to get you back up to 2" pipe size.
Just throwing a few ideas out there for you...
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