Will my pool become salty?

Caver01

Member
Oct 4, 2023
15
West Linn, OR
Pool Size
3722
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Thanks to TFP, good forum advice and conversation, and some relatively simple investment on my part to understand most of the details, I have gained confidence and feel very comfortable now, having taken ownership of a 3000+ gallon indoor Endless Pool. Having procured a TF-100 test kit, I have learned to use it and have established what I think is very stable pool chemistry. . . but I think there will come a time I need to re-evaluate what I think I know about my setup.

First, my pool is relatively small I think. Certainly more than a spa, but not so big that I need help. Second, the TF-100 test kit has proven its value over and over, giving me the confidence to make adjustments (using the Pool Math App as a guide). Here is my routine:

Pool is heated to 80F. Filter runs on timer, about 4-5 hours per day. Pool stays tightly covered with a security cover. Pool is rarely used--one swimmer for an hour, maybe once per month!

Once per week, or every other week:
Tests almost always show pH around 7.5.
FC can test around 1ppm -- I will then add about 8oz of liquid bleach to bring to 3ppm
CC is NEVER above .5ppm
TA 80ppm
CYA 20ppm (pool is indoors, remains covered)

My water is clear. I don't have an algae issue. No bugs or debris. Skimmer is always clean. Filter is always clean. I am basically maintaining a crystal clear pool that doesn't get used much at all right now.

So, as you can see, my routine for the past 10 months is to regularly check chlorine to make sure I don't run into a problem. That's like a cup of chlorine only, every week or two, and an occasional spoonful of something to balance the PH. I don't worry about CYA, as there's no sunlight to break down effectiveness of chlorine. Sure, if the pool starts getting used a lot, I will have to watch closely.

My question is this: If I am adding a cup of chlorine every week or two--and CC is not an issue, and FC stays between 1 and 3ppm, that added chlorine over time is eventually going somewhere. According to another thread, it's combining with sodium and becoming salt. So, does that mean eventually I will need to do a massive water change? I have only added water to the pool twice. The cover keeps it from evaporating, so we are talking about running a hose for like 10 minutes once every six months--hardly even visible--waterline changes like half an inch.

Do I need to add some other test kit reagents to my TF-100 to check how much NaCl is building up to indicate a water change is needed?
 
01,

Why?? Many of us have saltwater pools and they are great..

What do you thing is going to happen?

Keep in mind that saltwater pools have a salinity of about 3,500 ppm.. the ocean is at 35K ppm...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
You can use the "effects of adding..." calculator in pool math.
8 oz of 10% liquid chlorine adds about 3 ppm of salt to the water in your size pool.
If you're adding that much every single week, it'll take you about 20+ years (starting from zero of course) to reach the salinity of my pool. And you aren't always adding it every week.
As a side note, before I even put my SWG in I was considering adding salt to my pool just for the better water feel.
 
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Caver,
The salt is of little consequence.
The only issue I see is that you are letting the fc fall quite low. This may not have bitten you yet but I suspect it will at some point. 1ppm is extremely close to zero ppm at which point nasty stuff will happen.
It is recommended to always maintain a reserve of at least 2ppm fc even at lower or non existent cya levels.
FC/CYA Levels
We also recommended having 30ppm cya to help buffer the harshness of those adequate fc levels on swimmers, surfaces, & equipment - even in indoor pools.
This is a small tweak that will help you avoid having to slam or drain your 3k gallon pool/spa.
Note*
clear doesn’t equal sanitary
& while the presence of elevated cc’s is certainly indicative of a problem their absence doesn’t necessarily mean there’s nothing icky floating around so you want to be sure to follow the chart & stay above minimum at all times so you know you’re covered.
 
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Thanks for the info!

I added CYA and bumped the chorine up a bit. Re-tested everything again today and the pH had dropped--which I suppose I expected having added a bunch of acid. Tossed in some borax--all according to PoolMath and we should be good to go, with my new normal carrying some CYA and maintaining at least 2ppm FC. I appreciate the tweaking advice and now I have some good targets and understand them. Much appreciated.
 
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According to another thread, it's combining with sodium and becoming salt. So, does that mean eventually I will need to do a massive water change?

It is not combining with sodium. When you add salt (NaCl) to water it separates into Na+ and Cl- ions.

The chlorine in your pool turns into Cl-, as it is used up. Usually, we just say it turns into "salt", but what we mean is that it turns into chloride.

The "salt" drop test actually only tests for chloride, it can't distinguish if that chloride has got into the water by adding Sodium Chloride, Calcium Chloride (this is also a "salt", used to increase CH in pools or as ice melt), chlorine turning into chloride, or whatever.

The drop test result is reported in units of mg NaCl / L (which we call ppm, because 1 litre of water has a mass of 1kg, and then you get mg/kg = 1/1000000 = ppm), i.e. how many milligrams of NaCl added to a litre of water would have resulted in the same amount of chloride ions - but that doesn't necessarily mean that there is any sodium in the water. There usually is, for example from adding baking soda, dichlor, liquid CYA or from the fill water, but you actually don't know from just running the "salt" drop test.