will a new water temp sensor fix this aquapure SWG scenario?

[fc01]

Hi all-
I have a ~1yr old Jandy AquaPure PLC700 salt cell kit with flow sensor. The AquaLink RS panel, flow sensor, and PDA read as follows:

I don't have any error codes. This must have happened recently b/c the pool chemistry tests fine except for low chlorine which led me to check the panel. After 2 days of observation the "Reversing" light never changes and the production is stuck at 0%. If I tap the "C" button I get a reading of 3.5 (which I think is 3500) vs 3200 on my own salinity tester. If I tap "D" the temp reads 81-84 which is correct. The PDA usually shows a pool temp but now it's "--" so I think I need to replace this sensor which is clamped down.


1. Can anyone please confirm if I'm on the right track or advise a better diagnostic or course of action?

2. Does this seem like the correct sensor or is there a better recommendation?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QN82YPV/

3. How long do these water temp sensors generally last?

Thanks for the assist!

 

[ps0303]

Seems like you have two issues. On the salt system, it could be a bad sensor. I would pull it and check to see if it's dirty or any corrosion on it. I would check to see if you could get Jandy to cover it under warranty. It's always worth a try.

As for the temp issue, that is part of the automation and not the salt system. You can temporarily swap the air temp sensor with the water temp sensor on the automation systems and see if it reads the a temp. That verifies that it is a sensor and not a controller issue.

As for the sensor you listed, that is an aftermarket one and it could be OK to use. Those aftermarket ones are hit or miss as far as quality and longevity.

 

[fc01]

@PoolGate @zac280 does my situation seem like the same problem and solution as this one? Thanks for any advice.

will a new water temp sensor fix this aquapure SWG scenario?

Hi all- I have a ~1yr old Jandy AquaPure PLC700 salt cell kit with flow sensor. The AquaLink RS panel, flow sensor, and PDA read as follows: I don't have any error codes. This must have happened recently b/c the pool chemistry tests fine except for low chlorine which led me to check the panel...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[PoolGate]

It doesn't look like anything is wrong with the Aquapure, just that it is set at 0%. Aquapure does not use the system temp gauges, it uses its own, which is working. Try increasing the percent or doing the "boost". And yes, it appears your pool temp gauge is not working. Although it typically shows "open" when that happens. Is your "filter pump" on? You will get no temp reading unless it is.

 

[fc01]

Yes, the pump is on in those pictures. On the PDA the "set AquaPure" has been and still is 80%. When I use the B button on the panel it stays at 0. I recall when everything was normal I could only change the percent via the PDA not the panel.

Is the 0% production because the "cell on" light is dark or is the "cell reversing" light is lit, or both?

I meant to summon you from this thread (not my own lol) because it seems similar. I will correct that now.

Broken water temp sensor disables aquapure?

My pool is less than 2 years old and I'm getting the pool temp short error in iAqualink. Posts in this forum point to it being a bad water temp sensor, so I ordered two on Amazon for $25. The weird thing is the aquapure display shows 0%, even though it's set for 20%. I know it's not making...

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks for any guidance. My current plan is to replace the temp sensor then try boost, but I can try boost first if you think that's a helpful diagnostic.

 

[PoolGate]

Occasionally Aquapure becomes disconnected from Aqualink. Power cycle everything and try again.

Is the 0% production because the "cell on" light is dark or is the "cell reversing" light is lit, or both?

No - Because the picture you posted says, "Chlorine production 00%".

Thanks for any guidance. My current plan is to replace the temp sensor then try boost, but I can try boost first if you think that's a helpful diagnostic.

Aqualink's temp sensor(s) have no relationship to Aquapure. It only relies on its own temp sensor. Try boost now.

 

[fc01]

For my power cycle attempt I turned off the breakers for filter/pump/heater/blower and system/power, but didn't touch GFI or lights. Nothing changed/improved.
Then I triggered boost via PDA and see this: Jb and "cell on".
Hope this adds some diagnostic value! Thanks.

 

[PoolGate]

OK - So this means your SWG is working. I still think somehow it is set to 0%. Try changing the percent to like 50% just to make a change.\

You also may see small bubbles coming out of the returns.

 

[fc01]

What do you think about turning off the GFI every breaker on the panel and letting the entire box rest overnight, rather than letting the boost complete it's 24hr cycle? I did change the percent to 50 (from 80) on the PDA already.

In a google search I came across this procedure. Should I do anything like this to slap my system off being stuck on 0%? Thanks.

Disconnect power to the Jandy controller and then disconnect the four wire com cable from the Aqua pure and turn controller back on, wait till it boots, then turn it off. Connect the com wire agian and turn the controller back on and see if it sees it then. If not, clear the memory.

 

[PoolGate]

What do you think about turning off the GFI every breaker on the panel and letting the entire box rest overnight, rather than letting the boost complete it's 24hr cycle? I did change the percent to 50 (from 80) on the PDA already.

In a google search I came across this procedure. Should I do anything like this to slap my system off being stuck on 0%? Thanks.

Worth a shot. If it is disconnected from Aqualink you should also be able to increase the percent with the arrow buttons on the panel. You can always manually stop the boost and try to get it to just work normally. Letting it sit overnight won't do anything that a 1 minute power cycle would do.

 

[fc01]

The fix was as simple as swapping the water temp sensor. In summary:

• Pool chlorine tested low despite ~1yr old Jandy SWG cell and salinity flow sensor. The Aqualink display panel showed "chlorine production 00%" and no error codes. The only lights were green in color, under "power on" "flow" and "cell reversing" and nothing changed all day in Auto mode.
• The water temp on the Jandy PDA was showing "--" (based on the water temp sensor in the plumbing) while the Aqualink display panel showed the correct water temp (based on the SWG flow sensor).
• The PDA's diagnostic menu confirmed a short.
• Using the PDA, I could trigger "boost" and the SWG would turn green under "cell on" and display "Jb".
• Using the "Service" mode on the Aqualink, I could dial up the chlorine production using the "B" button, the "cell on" would turn green, and the display would show "Jo".
• Swapping out the water sensor at the plumbing between the pump and filter, and wiring it to the green connection block in the panel remedied everything. I.e. the SWG cell will be prevented from proper operation without a functioning water temp signal from that stand alone sensor, regardless of what the SWG flow sensor says.