I replaced my circuit board today with one that had been on previously (I replaced it unnecessarily because the problem back then was a flow switch) and the little red thingy on the bottom left that says R22 blew up and fried. Any idea what I did wrong? I'm sure I had the jumpers in the right place...
Why did my circuit board blow up?
- Thread starter Tinaja
- Start date
Meadow
0
Tina,
I believed this a duplicate post. Please read your PM.
That red thing is a Varistor, designed to protect downstream components from excessive transient voltage or voltage spike and/or over voltage. Not sure why it went up in smoke in your case, but it did what it is supposed to do. It sacrifices itself and burned to protect downstream components. Just curious, did it pop the upstream fuse or breaker? I don't have a specific type number to reference but it is identical to the other red thing above the terminal in your picture.
Can you read the number printed on it?
Here's an exert from Wiki: Varistors are used as control or compensation elements in circuits either to provide optimal operating conditions or to protect against excessive transient voltages. When used as protection devices, they shunt the current created by the excessive voltage away from sensitive components when triggered.
update; I searched and the part number is V150LA2P. Link did not work but here's the Digi-Key Part # F3005-ND
I believed this a duplicate post. Please read your PM.
That red thing is a Varistor, designed to protect downstream components from excessive transient voltage or voltage spike and/or over voltage. Not sure why it went up in smoke in your case, but it did what it is supposed to do. It sacrifices itself and burned to protect downstream components. Just curious, did it pop the upstream fuse or breaker? I don't have a specific type number to reference but it is identical to the other red thing above the terminal in your picture.
Can you read the number printed on it?
Here's an exert from Wiki: Varistors are used as control or compensation elements in circuits either to provide optimal operating conditions or to protect against excessive transient voltages. When used as protection devices, they shunt the current created by the excessive voltage away from sensitive components when triggered.
update; I searched and the part number is V150LA2P. Link did not work but here's the Digi-Key Part # F3005-ND
Last edited:
Meadow gave you good advice. It was probably a surge that took it out.
Most people that have a problem with Aquarite units (Same as Swimpure) fry the big black MOV (in the upper right of your pic).
You can try to replace that varistor that fried if you want, and see if that fixes the board. You may need to replace the one at the top of that terminal block too.
Most people that have a problem with Aquarite units (Same as Swimpure) fry the big black MOV (in the upper right of your pic).
You can try to replace that varistor that fried if you want, and see if that fixes the board. You may need to replace the one at the top of that terminal block too.
Thanks for the replies. Both of the red varistors blew up - RZ1 and RZ2 and scorched the board. I once had a power switch by my pool equipment but when I got a new pump and intellitouch, it disappeared, so I have to go in the garage and turn off the breaker. So I had it off and replaced the board. Went in the garage and turned the breaker back on. Walked to the Swimpure and saw smoke. Started walking back to the garage and heard a pop. They fried. So, it was a power surge in that the power was off and then the power was on.
I later took it off and put the other one back on just so something would be attached and my water would circulate. I noticed that of the color cables - gray, violet, white and blue, the white had come loose or I had not connected it properly. Maybe that had something to do with it but I don't know what those color cables are for.
Thanks.
I later took it off and put the other one back on just so something would be attached and my water would circulate. I noticed that of the color cables - gray, violet, white and blue, the white had come loose or I had not connected it properly. Maybe that had something to do with it but I don't know what those color cables are for.
Thanks.
Meadow
0
Those wires carries the incoming AC feed to the primary winding of the transformer. So far, I have had no luck in obtaining a main board to play with and therefore, can't tell which is 120V & 220V. Can't tell either if those Varistors are soldered Line to Line or Line to Gnd.
I'm 95% sure that the colored wires were not installed correctly.
People who have certain types of colorblindness can have trouble getting this part right.
Meadow
0
I will confirm if mis-wiring the x'former would cause the varistors to fail. I am getting close in stripping my working PCB and switch to bleach just to draw a schematic diagram.
Here is what the troubleshooting guide says but I don't see how both sets can be 120 volts.
Troubleshooting Guides | Support Center | Hayward Residential and Commercial Pool Products
Meadow
0
Thanks James, so with the transformer having 4 wires tells me that there are 2 separate 120V winding in the primary. Both sets of 120V in parallel is for 120V input and of course, in series is 220V. Now, if the transformer is not connected at all in the PCB and AC power is applied, then the varistors are hot if they are soldered line to line. They are still vulnerable to voltage spike and would torched itself, right?
Anyway, without a schematic diagram I can only make assumptions. But I'll come back and share to all what I can for educational purposes.
Without the colored wires connected, there's no path for current. I'm 99% sure that it was a miswiring of the colored wires.
So, I think that:
1 …grey…winding one, leg one
2…white…winding two, leg one.
3…violet…winding one, leg two.
4…blue…winding two, leg two.
For 230 volts, the jumper goes between 2 and 3, which connects the windings in series.
For 115 volts, the jumpers go from 1 to 2 and from 3 to 4, which puts the windings in parallel.
So, I think that:
1 …grey…winding one, leg one
2…white…winding two, leg one.
3…violet…winding one, leg two.
4…blue…winding two, leg two.
For 230 volts, the jumper goes between 2 and 3, which connects the windings in series.
For 115 volts, the jumpers go from 1 to 2 and from 3 to 4, which puts the windings in parallel.
It was only the white one that came loose but I guess that was enough. Lesson learned - make sure everything is tight and secured - double and triple check. Thanks.