Who has a Jandy Aquapure or Nature2 FusionSoft?

[PoolGate]

I am trying to see what is "normal" for both voltage and especially current to the salt cell. I am hoping a few people here feel comfortable and are able to test the current to the cell. This involves putting a clamp on current tester (easiest) or an inline current tester between either the red or the blue cable that goes to the cell. This does involve opening up your panel so if you are not comfortable around electrical, do not do this!

You'll need to get to that cable. On mine it is 4 screws to open the bottom half of the panel and the cable is in the left raceway.

If you are able to test, please post your current and voltage and if you have the 700 or 1400 series cell.

Thanks!

 

[Jimrahbe]

PG,

I was going to recommend you, until I finally realized it was you that posted the question..

Jim R.

 

[JamesW]

To test the amperage going across the cell, you need to test the DC millivolts from K to H.

The reading should be approximately 120 DC millivolts.

• 20 millivolts equal 1 ampere on a 1400 unit,

https://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/jandy-aqua-pure-error-codes.pdf

Here is a test procedure given for testing amps. Based on the above information, the amps should be about 6.0 amps.

The voltage going to the cell under full load should be 22 to 28 volts DC.

If DC voltage exceeds 28 VDC or less than 120 DC millivolts, replace cell and DC cord.

Further in the troubleshooting guide, it specifies the above, which means that if the cell is getting less than 6 amps, it needs to be replaced.

In my opinion, the current being below 6 amps means that the cell is bad and needs to be replaced. The warranty service tech should be able to check the amperage and determine that the cell is bad. They should know the the minimum amperage.

Can you check the voltage?

Ask the warranty service tech and Jandy what the minimum amperage should be.