bjennifer said:posting some pictures, these show the pool drained a foot or so and a few areas buffed out, however you can see how terrible the white surface is.
Ok this I can try with my limited skills.PoolGuyNJ said:When a F/G shell is limed up (calcium scale) like the one in the picture, it didn't get that way quickly and nor will the cure. It formed because calcium got in the pool and CSI was positive for a lengthy period of time.
If you have a heater, its best to take it out of the water loop.
Drop the pH to about a 5 or so and run it (no swimming!). This will slowly dissolve the calcium that coated the shell over a period of days. Normal pump run times are used.
Expect the CH level to rise.
Check the hardness of the fill water.
Dilute the pool as needed. Never exceed more than 50% at a time. If you have a high water table, don't exceed dropping more than 25% unless you have a dry well/sump and can pull any water out from behind the shell.
Try to get the CH level under 300 ppm. Target the CSI to be slightly negative and scale can't form. Recoonect the heater once the pool is rebalanced.
Let me know what you decide . I decided to wait on the process . Mine looks terrible when the pool is drained, with water in it no so bad. I am keeping my ph low and may add scale remover.jjbl said:I have been reading the streams concerning the white scale on the fiberglass pools. I too have this problem. My salt cell failed this summer when we had a lot of rain. When it would report that the salt was low, I would add it. In the last month I noticed something different. A white line at the top of the spa when the water would get a little lower from evaporation. I read what many have tried and what "Scott" has recommended. Has anyone tried his solution yet? My stream stopped on September 4th. There is no one within 100 miles of here that knows how to help so I have to make sure the person doing the "fix" knows what to do.
I have removed all the water, the light fixture and niche has been ruined and it covers the entire inside of the spa. I am afraid to leave it dry for fear that it will be worse. Somehow keeping it moist would help??
Scott's solution seems a bit drastic and I am not sure I can do it all. Maybe my only solution is to get rid of it. ;-((((
Yes, as the CH rises (dissolves into the water from the walls) in order to keep the Calcium Scale Index (CSI) negative as the calcium hardness goes up you will need to add fresh water - if and only if - the fill water has a lower calcium hardness than your pool does at the time of the dilution.nomad26 said:And here is where you start to lose me.
Check the hardness of the fill water ? That one confuses me . Am I filling the pool with fresh water ?
Beyond ground water I think there can be structural concerns.nomad26 said:I am confused with diluting the pool as needed never exceed more then 50 percent at a time ?
I do not have a dry well / sump, I would guess my water levels are low in my area. I live in California in a warm valley, for 5 to 6 months we do not have any rain, when we dug the hole for the pool the soil was very hard clay.
Use www.poolcalculator.com plug in your pool's measured values and the CSI is computed for you. CSI essentially measures the potential for scale to form. If the CSI is 0.6 or higher scale is likely to form. On the other hand if the CSI is below -0.6 then the water is very calcium hungry and can damage tile grout and plaster finishes - or in your case remove scale from fiberglass.nomad26 said:I understand getting the Calcium Hardness level under 300 ppm,
The CSI I need to read up on not sure what that is.
The answers I have seen here are:jjbl said:How do you go about changing the CH? What do I add other than water? If I add my well water back to the pool, and do not run it through the "salt cell,"
will that make a difference? Is there a chemical that is available that lowers calcium?