What to do first???
- Thread starter Harry26
- Start date
Thanks,This is the best my pool has ever looked...The BBB system definetly works.....Thanks for everyones help...
PH 7.6 fc5 cc.5 TC4.5? Bromine is .5....How do I raise it???Also,the water is crystal clear but,it has a slight greenish tinge to it...Not blue as in the above pictures...What steps do you recommend???
Welcome to TFP!
Here are some of my fave Pool School articles in case you missed any of them.
TFPC for Beginners
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
Here are the Recommended Levels for your pool.
Here is the Water Balance for a saltwater pool.
Here are the Recommended Pool Chemicals and how to add them.
Use PoolMath to figure out how much to add.
Here are some of my fave Pool School articles in case you missed any of them.
TFPC for Beginners
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
Here are the Recommended Levels for your pool.
Here is the Water Balance for a saltwater pool.
Here are the Recommended Pool Chemicals and how to add them.
Use PoolMath to figure out how much to add.
You do not have bromine in your pool, so ignore that.
Can you post a full set of test results?
The links posted above can help you start to speak our language
Can you post a full set of test results?
The links posted above can help you start to speak our language
Fc--5 OK,Just did these tests.....I don't know why my CYA is still so high...Higher than the last time I tested when it was about 80...I've must have totally refilled the pool by now...Muliple drainings and refills....Could the high CYA be making the green tint to the water????What is my next step????
ph--7.6
ta--80
ch--40
cya-100
ph--7.6
ta--80
ch--40
cya-100
I would bump your FC a little since your CYA is 100 though. Still not bad numbers
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Metals can make your pool get a green tint. I would try to drain to lower your CYA some and bring FC up.
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Metals can make your pool get a green tint. I would try to drain to lower your CYA some and bring FC up.
ok,i raised the fc,now it's way too high..15.....i also messed up and raised the ph up off the scale...i'm doing a drain and refill.partial..what best to lower ph? Muriatic acid or ph down at walmart????if muriatic acid,where do i get it???
Are you using PoolMath? There is no reason you should be all over the map like this.
Forget the pH, because the rest reads artificially high when the FC is greater than 10ppm.
Forget the pH, because the rest reads artificially high when the FC is greater than 10ppm.
i'LL TEST IN THE MORNING AFTER RUNNING THE FILTER ALL NIGHT.THE WATER IS CLEAR BUT HAS A SLIGHT GREEN TINT...HOW DO YOU LOWER THE FC???OR DO YOU??I SCREWED IT UP WITH TOO MUCH BLEACH AND TOO MUCH BORAX....II'LL REPORT AGAIN TOMMOROW...WON'T THE FC GO DOWN BY ITSELF UNDER BRIGHT SUNSHINE? OR SHOULD I JUST KEEP DRAINING AND REFILLING TO DILUTE THE FC?
WHY ARE WE YELLING! ? ! ? 
The FC will drop due to the sun. If the pH is still high, then lower it with muriatic acid which you should be able to find in any hardware store.
Why did you add too much? Did PoolMath not work for you?
The FC will drop due to the sun. If the pH is still high, then lower it with muriatic acid which you should be able to find in any hardware store.
Why did you add too much? Did PoolMath not work for you?
How have you been chlorinating your pool since the last partial drain? There are only three reasons CYA will go up:
If you added CYA in the last week
If you are using dichlor or trichlor pucks or shock
One or the other test was done incorrectly
As soon as FC is back below 10 test and adjust PH
Here are some of my fave Pool School articles in case you missed any of them.
TFPC for Beginners
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
Here are the Recommended Levels for your pool.
Here is the Water Balance for a saltwater pool.
Here are the Recommended Pool Chemicals and how to add them.
Use PoolMath to figure out how much to add.
If you added CYA in the last week
If you are using dichlor or trichlor pucks or shock
One or the other test was done incorrectly
As soon as FC is back below 10 test and adjust PH
Here are some of my fave Pool School articles in case you missed any of them.
TFPC for Beginners
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
Here are the Recommended Levels for your pool.
Here is the Water Balance for a saltwater pool.
Here are the Recommended Pool Chemicals and how to add them.
Use PoolMath to figure out how much to add.
Not sure what you mean by "why are we telling"
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I haven't put anything but BBB in the pool.....CYA going up is probably do to bad testing....
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I don't know if anyone saw my post in another forum about a member (Rockey) asking me to test Clorox pool products......Did anyone else get the same PM????
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I haven't put anything but BBB in the pool.....CYA going up is probably do to bad testing....
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I don't know if anyone saw my post in another forum about a member (Rockey) asking me to test Clorox pool products......Did anyone else get the same PM????
I retested this morning.....Fc 9
PH 8 Should I put some P_H down in or just keep running the filter or drain and refill somemore????
I'm dreading my water bill this month.....I can't test CYA until I get more R0013.....I ordered a 16 oz. bottle....Quick question...Can I use half the water sample and half the reagent,would I get the same results????
PH 8 Should I put some P_H down in or just keep running the filter or drain and refill somemore????
I'm dreading my water bill this month.....I can't test CYA until I get more R0013.....I ordered a 16 oz. bottle....Quick question...Can I use half the water sample and half the reagent,would I get the same results????
I would get some Muratic Acid and use that to get the PH down while your FC is under 10. You can get it at Lowes in the pool section. Make sure to get the 31% one. There is one that is lower so...........not as cost effective.
You are going to have to keep your FC up with the still high CYA.
Use pool math to tell you how much to add. I have a 2 cup measuring I just just for adding bleach and another one I use just for the MA. Here is a link to it.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
Let us know if you need any help with it. It is a wonderful tool but does take a little doing to get used to.
Kim
You are going to have to keep your FC up with the still high CYA.
Use pool math to tell you how much to add. I have a 2 cup measuring I just just for adding bleach and another one I use just for the MA. Here is a link to it.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
Let us know if you need any help with it. It is a wonderful tool but does take a little doing to get used to.
Kim
You won't be able to fill the tube all the way, but if you have high CYA you might be able to get your reading with a half sample.
I'll echo what the others said, if your FC is over 10, ignore your PH reading. High FC levels throw off the PH results. Wait until the FC drops below 10 to test your PH. I think you are chasing your tail with this and adjusting the PH constantly when you don't need to.
Speaking of adjusting PH, if your PH down is a powder, don't use that all the time. That powder is sodium bisulfate (aka, dry acid), and will lower PH but it also adds sulfates to the water. High levels of sulfates can damage concrete. And the only way to get rid of sulfates is drain/fill. Rain water and splash out will also bring that level down as well. A much better alternative is hydrochloric acid (aka, muriatic acid), it will lower your PH and won't add anything extra to the water.
Your green tint may be due to the use of algaecides, a lot of them contain copper. Copper is responsible for green staining and green hair (the Statue of Liberty is also made of copper). You may want to get your water tested for metals to know what your dealing with, and then use an appropriate treatment to lift the stains and then a sequestrant to keep them from re-depositing on the pool surface.
I'll echo what the others said, if your FC is over 10, ignore your PH reading. High FC levels throw off the PH results. Wait until the FC drops below 10 to test your PH. I think you are chasing your tail with this and adjusting the PH constantly when you don't need to.
Speaking of adjusting PH, if your PH down is a powder, don't use that all the time. That powder is sodium bisulfate (aka, dry acid), and will lower PH but it also adds sulfates to the water. High levels of sulfates can damage concrete. And the only way to get rid of sulfates is drain/fill. Rain water and splash out will also bring that level down as well. A much better alternative is hydrochloric acid (aka, muriatic acid), it will lower your PH and won't add anything extra to the water.
Your green tint may be due to the use of algaecides, a lot of them contain copper. Copper is responsible for green staining and green hair (the Statue of Liberty is also made of copper). You may want to get your water tested for metals to know what your dealing with, and then use an appropriate treatment to lift the stains and then a sequestrant to keep them from re-depositing on the pool surface.
Harry, yes you can use half the amount of reagent and water for the cya test. It doesnt need a lot of liquid to reach 80 or 100. More than thats a waste if you know the level is high already