What to add first?

May 28, 2018
55
Ocala Florida
With all the rain we've had the Pinch a Penny report was interesting.

Add salt (does(n't) your salt generator report a fault?), add Acid, add Chlorine, add Stabilizer.

But what they didn't say was in what order.

What basic chemistry I know tells me to be sure each is throughly mixed and _sometimes_ order matters.

So does order matter or no?

Thanks
CVT
 
No worries. Welcome to TFP.
Its tough to know what to add or work on without knowing numbers. Here’s where you usually can’t go wrong. Adding straight bleach each day until you get the test kit. The amount depends on your pool size. If however you have ammonia in the pool it will just get quickly consumed. Is your pool clear?
If you have a salt pool, adding back to your SWG recommended levels at this time will not matter.
 
I see your signature now. So whatever level your Hayward turbo cell recommends would be fine to add salt at anytime. Again without a good test kit it will be tough to know what and how much to add including even the salt as the control box is not always accurate.
 
No protocol other than waiting 30 minutes or even an hour and circulating each. Under the TFP METHOD it would be rare to have to add more than a couple of chemicals at any one time. Salt at anytime. MA and chlorine don’t mix well so add either one and circulate and brush to aid in mixing and wait at least 30 minutes to an hour before adding the other. If I was adding both I would want my PH CORRECT before adding other Basic chemicals. Obviously PH and FC are the most important. Adding salt to your pool to the proper level at anytime will allow your SWG to function correctly after you get the water balanced. Just guessing that you will need to SLAM the pool. You are going to need to know PH, FC, CC and CYA TA and CH before you do this. Again until there are RELIABLE numbers the sequence of events can’t be guessed at. You could be adding a gallon of straight bleach to the pool each day until then.

Day to day, after you get the pool where it needs to be you will find with a SWG that you won’t be adding multiple chemicals a day or week. Typically with a SWG you will only be concerned with a slowly rising PH and dose with muratic acid weekly.

There are are lots of experts on this forum that can guide you through each and every step. However, one of the key tenants to the TFP method is reliable DROP TEST numbers coming from you. Once you post those you will be amazed at the amount and accuracy of the advice you will receive.
 

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Good morning Chuck! Lets get this pool party started :party:

Order of importance:

FC-to get and keep the pool clean in appearance and sanitary

PH-for comfort (eyes and skim) as well as surface and equipment care. Too low and you can mess up everything

CH-important for the plaster

CYA-helps keep the sun from eating the FC........think of it like sun screen for your FC. Too much though is NOT good though as then you will need more and more FC as it is a ratio thing. Here is a link to a chart about it: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

TA-is last.....it is important in that it works hand and hand with PH but we will tweak your TA level when you get your test kit and we know all of the numbers.

I have a set of links for new pool owners. You may have seen some of them but I want to make sure you get all of them:


Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule

Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

Pool Math

Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Make sure to ask any and all questions you might have no matter how small! We have all been where you are at one point.

I would LOVE to see a pic or 100 of your pool and horses!!!

Kim:kim:
 
Good morning Chuck! Lets get this pool party started :party:

Order of importance:

FC-to get and keep the pool clean in appearance and sanitary

PH-for comfort (eyes and skim) as well as surface and equipment care. Too low and you can mess up everything

CH-important for the plaster

CYA-helps keep the sun from eating the FC........think of it like sun screen for your FC. Too much though is NOT good though as then you will need more and more FC as it is a ratio thing. Here is a link to a chart about it: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

TA-is last.....it is important in that it works hand and hand with PH but we will tweak your TA level when you get your test kit and we know all of the numbers.

I have a set of links for new pool owners. You may have seen some of them but I want to make sure you get all of them:


Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule

Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

Pool Math

Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Make sure to ask any and all questions you might have no matter how small! We have all been where you are at one point.

I would LOVE to see a pic or 100 of your pool and horses!!!

Kim:kim:



See Chuck. All you have to do is say expert and it’s like a guardian Angel appearing!!!!!
:angel::angel::angel::testresults:
 
Thanks for both input;
I'm printing from the forum web pages as I absorb them. And as time allows.

Sidebar: funny how a half hour task (this AM - fit one extra cup shelf) can consume a whole morning [emoji45].
Attached is pool shot (supervising horses in background), pool light that I can't find switch for and pool pump and filter.
8dd1887d3f20cb1c97a0d7f0d9b83cf2.jpg
2804d560eb076bc8872840cc905d1992.jpg
a3a225cfffe0549a86e8aba3079fd7ea.jpg
 
See Chuck. All you have to do is say expert and it’s like a guardian Angel appearing!!!!!
:angel::angel::angel::testresults:

LOL right back at ya! I had this open and was working on it as I got ready for my morning's job (burning the brush pile) so I did not see that you had answered. I could have just said "what Dreb said ^^^^) and called it good! :hug:

Kim:kim:
 
Chuck, you can buy the remote online. I have the same light and you can operate it manually. You can move the switch on the right to the on position and you should here a hum and the white part on top of the box should light up. It take a few moments for it to warm up and light the pool up. The button on the left controls the colorwheel which would change the color of the light. If its like mine the model is Fiberstars 6000 system.

- - - Updated - - -

I'm currently running mine manually as my remote is not working and my colorwheel is not turning but the light still works. The bulb the lights up the pool is in the box and it could be burnt out.
 
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