What am i doing wrong this year???

Jul 21, 2013
134
Philly
Free Chlorine 2
Total avail chlorine 2
Ch 230
Cya 30
Ta 110
Ph 7.6
Phosphates 500





Ok so i have learned what i know from this forum and use only liquid chlorine. I always put 1 whole gallon of store brand walmart bleach in the pool every morning. Never had a problem. A gallong would bring me roughly to 5ppm and by end of day i would be down to 1ppm. So now this year i notice that the walmart brand, along with clorox brand, says it only has 5.7% available chlorine instead of the 8% it always had. So lately i notice in my deep end i keep getting light green dusting on my walls. I hit the walls with the scrub brush and after a few days its back. Is that algae i assume? Now from this forum i learned pay no attention to the pool store when they try to sell you phosphates chemical and just keep using chlorine and you wont have an issue. Today my test results show 500ppb for phosphates. Do i still ignore that? Also another thing to consider is my de filter takes like all year to go up 10psi on the gauge. Which is new by the way. Gauge does work also lol. And i always wonder should i backwash even though the gauge hasnt went up 10psi? So could this problem be from me not backwashing? Also where are you guys getting your liquid chlorine from because it is not cost effective to dump two gallons of walmart bramd bleaxh in my pool everyday now that its 5.7%
 
It appears you are using pool store tests instead of your TF100? Why?

If the bleach sodium hypochlorite % is lower you need to use more of the product. And, you do not want to use Clorox brand at all as it is Cloromax.
With the household bleach market switching to a bunch of designer additives you are better off to use liquid chlorine. Walmart carries it in their pool section, Pool Essentials, 10% sodium hypochlorite.

You now need to SLAM Process. Review Pool School again and get out that trusty TF100. If the reagents are over a year old, order a refill kit from TFTestkits.net

Take care.
 
1. You are letting the FC drop WAY too low for your given CYA level ... see the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
2. You appear to be having a pool store test your water (phosphates!?!?!?) OR do you have the phosphate test for some reason?
3. You are not cleaning the filter often enough. Should clean it when the pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure. Waiting for 10psi is WAY too long.
4. You need a new gauge to do #3

Your main problem is #1 ... now that you see algae, you need to follow the SLAM Process process.
 
Yes i used leslies to test my water so that i could give you guys a reading today. My tf100 kit is empty on a few and a year old now so i need to order a new one asap.

- - - Updated - - -

According to the cya chart, do not let my chlorine level get below 2ppm since i run 30cya? Also is liquid still the way to go? Not sure that its cost effective anymore? If i have to dump 2 gallons in a day. How does the rest of my neighborhood get by on granular with no issues?
 
How do you know they do not have issues? You only see the "good side" of their pool story ;) and how do you know how much $ they are spending?

It seems that the household bleach may not be the deal it used to be. Often the liquid chlorine for pools in the 10% and 12.5% strengths are more cost effective now ... plus you know it does not have all the added "stuff" that the household bleach is starting to have.
 
Ok i just ran to leslies and got the 5 gallon jug of lc whoch they say is 12.5%. I entered it in the pool calc and it says to add 247oz to go from 1ppm to 12ppm for shock level with a 30cya. I will do that now if it sounds right to you guys/gals.
 

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