If this is accurate, then most of the TA was cyanurate and the pH was very low.
Probably destroyed the heat exchanger.
Weird Blue Stuff in Sand Filter
- Thread starter tylerhunt
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- copper sand filter
Probably destroyed the heat exchanger.
No question in my mind. Chronically acidic water and blue stuff in the filter? OP what you were holding in those photos used to be your heater...
Most likely, the TA was below zero and it was only recently raised when they decided to put the house up for sale.
The pH was probably somewhere below 4.
The pH was probably somewhere below 4.
I just want to let the OP know he can only drain down to about 2 feet in the shallow end. This protects (we hope) the liner you have from shifting and wrinkling.
Maddie
Maddie
When I first tested it the sample turned red instead of green. The next time I checked it it was 20.
I greatly appreciate this reply. My shallow end is only three feet, so that sounds like I’d only be draining it down about a foot. The deep end is eight feet, so if I can only do a foot at a time, seems like this would have to be repeated quite a number of times to sufficiently dilute the water.
It’s been a journey getting here, but I’ve been slowly awakening to that reality.
That means that the pH was below 4.5.
Basically, the test titrates the sample with sulfuric acid until the pH is 4.5 where you can see that the percentage of bicarbonate (TA total alkalinity) is zero.
The indicator dye is red below a pH of 4.5 and green at a pH above 4.5.
Percent bicarbonate (Y-axis) vs. pH (X-axis).
The blue curve is bicarbonate and the purple curve is carbon dioxide.
X-axis is pH and Y-axis is percentage.
There is 50% by molarity of each at the pKa of 6.35.
X-axis is pH and Y-axis is percentage.
There is 50% by molarity of each at the pKa of 6.35.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,719
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
You have some other options- read down to no drain water exchange
Draining - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
I don[t know if that is as feasible since its near impossible to get a Bromide level to check on progress? It uses a lot more water so that might be the trade off....
OR.... drain down to 1' in shallow end and use the "No Drain Water Exchange" on the remaining water!! I think that would work great!
OR.... drain down to 1' in shallow end and use the "No Drain Water Exchange" on the remaining water!! I think that would work great!
I read the section on No Drain Water Exchange, but I don't see anything about Bromide level there. What are you referring to?
If you were doing the no drain water exchange you *might* wish you could test the water now and then to monitor the level of chemical still remaining in the pool. Do you own a bromide tester?? I saw one.... $80!
I say go for the outright drain as low as a foot (as you say) and then hop to it and get that baby filled up again! 