weak jets! what do i do?

[strwaterway]

Our Poly Storm Gunite jet internals are all fixed 10GPM @ 15 PSI (34.65 FoH).
We also make nozzle reducers for 7 GPM & a Volume Directional Jet @ 25 GPM for flow adjustment needs.

These jets should not feel like your are being drilled in the back. The "plume" of water/air from the face of the jet will be about 18 - 24".

With spa jets, it is difficult to run them off of the filter pump after a filter, heater, chlorinator/ generator because most of the water flow is reduced by the head pressure from the all of the equipment besides the plumbing.

The nozzle on spa jets ADDS almost 35 FoH (Feet of Head) to the plumbing system... over and above the equipment. An average 'shared' system can have as much a 90 FoH. At that point it is almost impossible to find a pump that can still push any quantity of water at those Head levels. Therefore the most ideal way to operate jets is w/ a separate jet pump dedicated to the jet need and a separate circ pump for filtration/heating.

That being said, in this situation it may be possible to solve the flow issue by installing a "bypass valve and line" after the pump but before the filter. This is a line T'd from between the pump and filter going to the spa jet return line. Right after the T install a "bypass valve" (servicable check valve PN 600-7010). This will open up when the pump is turned on High Speed to allow most of the flow to "bypass" the filter, heater, chlorinatior/ generator and go to the jets optimizing most of the water flow to the jets.

Thanks
God Bless

Scott T. Roodbergen
Regional Sales Mgr.
Waterway Pool Products

574-288-3290 Ofc/ Mbl
574-288-3295 Fax
www.waterwayplastics.com

 

[Guest]

My air line is 100' from the spa, so I don't think that was your problem. We typically put them at the equipment. If the air line is open at the equipment (it looks like it has a cap on it in the picture) you should be fine.

Wait at least 30 days on adding the salt (and 60 if you can hold off that long). You plaster will just be "completing" its cure out at 30 days, so 60 is just a little added insurance!

 

[JeffJeff]

I had a similar issue with the waterway rotating jets. My brand new spa was an extreme disappointment. So bad that we had no desire to get in and were wishing we saved the money and went spa-less. I was expecting much more with a 3HP pump, 3" spa return line and 2.5 inch return lines.

My pool was plumbed with a suction line (venturi) for air to the equipment pad, and the blower was hooked up to a separate line which injected air below the bench. So all the blower did was make it bubbly and did not increase the pressure of the jets.

I had the PB plumb the blower to the air suction line with a valve to direct the air to either the jets or partially to the jets and bubblers. This helped some. I pulled off one of the waterway jets and the stream was very powerful so I knew there was a lot more potential. The type of waterway jets seemed to be restricting the flow significantly. PB then replaced the jets with a different style jet - single jet that looks like an eyeball which can be adjusted. Much better. The combination of the new jets with the blower hooked directly to the air suction line made a huge difference and the spa is now enjoyable.

 

[n8huntsman]

That's an old picture from when I was still pressure testing. Since then I have cut the cap completely off. Is there a special start-up procedure that is used to evacuate the water from the air line after pressure testing? I had my air compressor set up to blow the water out but the jets seemed to be working so I didn't follow through with it. Maybe there is still water in that line causing the jets to be weak? Opening the line near the spa by-passes the water in the line?

 

[Guest]

That's an old picture from when I was still pressure testing. Since then I have cut the cap completely off. Is there a special start-up procedure that is used to evacuate the water from the air line after pressure testing? I had my air compressor set up to blow the water out but the jets seemed to be working so I didn't follow through with it. Maybe there is still water in that line causing the jets to be weak? Opening the line near the spa by-passes the water in the line?

It should clear on its own. You mentioned that you had someone partially cover the air pipe. Try this; completely cover the air pipe (it will cause the jets to "flood" as no air will be drawn in). Then release and see how the jets perform once the air is allowed to be reintroduced into the system. Try it a couple of times if you have tom you won't hurt anything. You might just have some junk in there and that may be enough to clean it.

 

[geekgranny]

It may just be these jets and your expectations that aren't in line. The jet strength won't be like those found in a portable hot tub.

Scott

I have about 30 or more jets in my portable spa, 550 gallon. Half of the jets (different sizes and types) are powered by a 5 hp pump; the other half 5 hp pump. 1.5" flex pipes have very short runs. That's a lot of water flow and sometimes I even want more so I'll restrict one jet some at a seat. Venturi, with small tubing, also makes it seem more powerful by introducing a lot of turbulence to the jets. They work without any forced air via a pump and are just inches from the jets.

Only the low flow circulation pump runs through electric heater and filter. Each 5 hp pump is fed via two 4" "drains" on vertical wall near floor as they need a lot of water going to them.

That's why I'm glad our pool, that was here when we moved in, didn't have an attached spa. It cost almost nothing to keep the spa heated 24/7 year round and is always ready.

I don't know if it is possible but maybe you could do some local-to-the spa re-plumbing, by adding a bigger pump, with valves, for option to use local pump and/or pool pump. For instance get the heated water from main heater on one jet (or set) and use local, big pump for the rest of the jets.

Just a thought.

gg=alice

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

A big thanks to Scott R of Waterway and a warm welcome to you. This kind of straight to the point and honest approach is refreshing and nice to see from a manufacturer. Too often, a marketing person gets involved who doesn't understand these types of forums frown on the marketing. You and Sean A. seem to get it. Many others don't.

I don't see the part number for the restrictor in the 2010 Buyers guide. Would you be so kind?

Are there any additional GPM numbers available for increased/decreased pressure in the water feed loop?

Scott