Its not critical that the lines be pressurized like they were last night. In the morning, assuming things are warm enough, repressurize your system enough to get some sort of basepoint. Something getting damaged during the process would be very unlikely and very obvious.
Please make sure you meet the foreman that has the receiver for the laser and make him very aware of the depths you want and any other special features. He is the one that dictates what the rest of the crew does and the depths your pool will end up. Also have him ensure the bond beam forms are level and the skimmer is the correct height.
Place a small level on top of your skimmer while they shoot that area. Crooked skimmers make me crazy.
If you are actually getting gunite:
1.)Let the foreman and nozzleman know that you want the least amount of water added as possible for the driest mix
2.)Rebound is not accepted anywhere in the pool and you want to see a spoil pile of the rebound that was not used afterward (that they will haul away)
3.)If not already agreed, pay the cement company yourself and the contractor separate
4.)All rebar is spaced 3" from the dirt (min) and gets 3" of cover (min)
5.)All rebar ties are bent down and out of the way. No ties should protrude above the rebar
6.)The copper bond wires stubbed of from the rebar cage should be clearly marked and pulled as far as possible from the shell so they don't get lost in the gunite
7.)No water applied anywhere to the gunite until at least 4 -6 hours after it has set up
8.)Be certain there are no voids under the light niches, plumbing stubs and water features. Voids are very common in these areas
If you are getting shotcrete:
1.) No water should be added to the cement truck by the driver or the crew. If the mix needs water to flow through the pump, reject the load
2.) Same as #2 above but is much less of an occurrence with shotcrete, if at all
3.) Same as #3
4.) Same
5.) Same
6.) Same
7.) Same
8.) Same
Ask to have the forms removed at the end of the day or the following day. Leaving them in longer is unnecessary will make it VERY difficult to remove them.
Good luck!
Please make sure you meet the foreman that has the receiver for the laser and make him very aware of the depths you want and any other special features. He is the one that dictates what the rest of the crew does and the depths your pool will end up. Also have him ensure the bond beam forms are level and the skimmer is the correct height.
Place a small level on top of your skimmer while they shoot that area. Crooked skimmers make me crazy.
If you are actually getting gunite:
1.)Let the foreman and nozzleman know that you want the least amount of water added as possible for the driest mix
2.)Rebound is not accepted anywhere in the pool and you want to see a spoil pile of the rebound that was not used afterward (that they will haul away)
3.)If not already agreed, pay the cement company yourself and the contractor separate
4.)All rebar is spaced 3" from the dirt (min) and gets 3" of cover (min)
5.)All rebar ties are bent down and out of the way. No ties should protrude above the rebar
6.)The copper bond wires stubbed of from the rebar cage should be clearly marked and pulled as far as possible from the shell so they don't get lost in the gunite
7.)No water applied anywhere to the gunite until at least 4 -6 hours after it has set up
8.)Be certain there are no voids under the light niches, plumbing stubs and water features. Voids are very common in these areas
If you are getting shotcrete:
1.) No water should be added to the cement truck by the driver or the crew. If the mix needs water to flow through the pump, reject the load
2.) Same as #2 above but is much less of an occurrence with shotcrete, if at all
3.) Same as #3
4.) Same
5.) Same
6.) Same
7.) Same
8.) Same
Ask to have the forms removed at the end of the day or the following day. Leaving them in longer is unnecessary will make it VERY difficult to remove them.
Good luck!
