Doing some DIY pool renovation. The old waterline tile was beveled on the bottom edge - so - there was not a recessed bed that the tile was set into. New tile is just under 1/4" thick and is not finished/beveled on the bottom. Any suggestions as to a product to use to bevel from the front of the tile down to the pool wall? I used Henry Feather Finish in the past for some gouges in the plaster/gunite (with epoxy paint over it) and it worked great. But, this is a large area as the pool is 20x40. The brown under the tile in the photos is hydraulic cement which didn't work. We will grind that out and start again. Also, we will be epoxy painting as soon as we figure this out. Thanks for all your help, folks.
Waterline Tile Conundrum...
- Thread starter coloexposures
- Start date
Toxophilite
Silver Supporter
Normally, from what I have seen, the pool wall plaster is equivalent to, or tapered to, tile bottom which is squared. Is that what you are trying to fill back to and then repaint?
Yes - the bottom of the tile is completely exposed. I want to fill in from the front of the tile back to the pool wall surface - so that there isn't a 1/4" drop-off from the front of the tile to the pool surface.
There have been three sets of waterline tile on this pool since it was built in 1959. The first was beveled on the bottom back to the pool wall, the second was beveled back to the pool wall with grout that failed miserably.
There have been three sets of waterline tile on this pool since it was built in 1959. The first was beveled on the bottom back to the pool wall, the second was beveled back to the pool wall with grout that failed miserably.
Toxophilite
Silver Supporter
OK, the pics were a bit misleading and viewed as the opposite scenario and assume the tile was added later than original plaster. Seems to grind a bevel is going to leave a white line, which would mimic a grout line, which I guess what was was done last to cover a bad bevel job, which I would imagine is near impossible to achieve once installed. If the tiles were on the ground, I could envision it being done on table with guides to give a more uniform line.
A re-plaster would probably bring both back into being on plane with each other, but outside of that, if mine and needed something to look decent, I would feather the missing plaster out to tile. Though, you will probably have lack of longevity issue as with the grout.
A re-plaster would probably bring both back into being on plane with each other, but outside of that, if mine and needed something to look decent, I would feather the missing plaster out to tile. Though, you will probably have lack of longevity issue as with the grout.
Correct. I'm just asking what type of product to use to do exactly what you are saying -- feather from below the tile to the bottom of the tile and to the face of the tile. Any product suggestions?
Toxophilite
Silver Supporter
Thanks. We already tried hydraulic cement -- as stated in the original post. Perhaps someone else has some ideas. Thanks for your replies Toxophilite!
*BUMP PLEASE*
HI - curious how you resolved this (if you resolved it).
I'm in a similar situation, but have not yet installed the tile.
I watched a video today of somebody just using extra thinset (Laticrete 254 Platinum) to feather it out, but I don't think that would last very long.
My issue was caused by the topline of the plaster being ripped away when the tiles fell out and were mechanically removed. I am going to attempt to fill the difference with plaster repair when I mix for the rest of the repair jobs... unless of course, you found a better solution!
HI - curious how you resolved this (if you resolved it).
I'm in a similar situation, but have not yet installed the tile.
I watched a video today of somebody just using extra thinset (Laticrete 254 Platinum) to feather it out, but I don't think that would last very long.
My issue was caused by the topline of the plaster being ripped away when the tiles fell out and were mechanically removed. I am going to attempt to fill the difference with plaster repair when I mix for the rest of the repair jobs... unless of course, you found a better solution!
We used Kerapoxy grout from Floor and Decor. Expensive, but, easy to apply and hard as stone.
