Hi all, so I finally have crystal clear water after having algae. After about a week or so I noticed what looks like dirt/film around the interior of the pool at water level. I tried using a brush to clean it and didn't work. What can this be and how should I go about cleaning it? I will be testing. I'm currently letting the pool drop to a FC of 7, pool was at a FC OF 16 while shocking. I also know before shocking ph was over 8. Could that be a issue? I'm going to test TA and PH in a few minutes and will report back. Any help would be great.
Water spots around pool W/PICS
- Thread starter Gradywhite3535
- Start date
Lower your PH within normal range once FC is below 10. Regarding stains, they sometimes are difficult. Try vitamin C in a spot (gently rub) to see what happens. You can try a magic eraser, but again be gentle. Magic Jack's tile cleaner may work.
Below, in Italics is a comment from the company and a representative during an e-mail. My liner does not have the line, but the white steps have a scum line, especially after a rain storm. I use the magic eraser, as it works like a charm.
The Power Blue Water Line and Tile Cleaner is an effective product for
removing the scum line or "bathtub ring" that commonly occurs at the water
line. If being used on a vinyl liner do a small test area first as it may
remove the print on older or degraded liners. I have attached additional
information.
Thank you,
Rick Swartz
Technical Services
Jack's Magic Products
800-348-1656
https://www.poolgeek.com/products/jacks-magic-power-blue-water-line-tile-cleaner-1-qt
I do not have experience, but have seen positive reviews. Thanks!
- - - Updated - - -
Congratulations on your purchase. Even though you have an upgraded filter and pump, please make sure to brush your walls often, twice weekly to help with circulation. This will help.
Below, in Italics is a comment from the company and a representative during an e-mail. My liner does not have the line, but the white steps have a scum line, especially after a rain storm. I use the magic eraser, as it works like a charm.
The Power Blue Water Line and Tile Cleaner is an effective product for
removing the scum line or "bathtub ring" that commonly occurs at the water
line. If being used on a vinyl liner do a small test area first as it may
remove the print on older or degraded liners. I have attached additional
information.
Thank you,
Rick Swartz
Technical Services
Jack's Magic Products
800-348-1656
https://www.poolgeek.com/products/jacks-magic-power-blue-water-line-tile-cleaner-1-qt
I do not have experience, but have seen positive reviews. Thanks!
- - - Updated - - -
Congratulations on your purchase. Even though you have an upgraded filter and pump, please make sure to brush your walls often, twice weekly to help with circulation. This will help.
Thanks for the the responses,So here are my results
FC 8.5
CC .5 or under
PH 18 drops so not sure how high it is
TA 80
CH didn't test
CYA 40
My PH Must be extremely high for it to take 18 drops. How should I go about using pool math for my ph if I don't know the exact number?regarding the stains should I use a little muritic acid to lower ph and scrub it? I know that stuff is extremely strong from using in my boat with rust.it says in pool math that by changing your PH will change TA, does it lower or high TA? I hooked up a cheap skimmer from intex and wondering if that is causing the bad circulation. I have disconnected until I get the stains out. Thanks guys
FC 8.5
CC .5 or under
PH 18 drops so not sure how high it is
TA 80
CH didn't test
CYA 40
My PH Must be extremely high for it to take 18 drops. How should I go about using pool math for my ph if I don't know the exact number?regarding the stains should I use a little muritic acid to lower ph and scrub it? I know that stuff is extremely strong from using in my boat with rust.it says in pool math that by changing your PH will change TA, does it lower or high TA? I hooked up a cheap skimmer from intex and wondering if that is causing the bad circulation. I have disconnected until I get the stains out. Thanks guys
Grady:
I am not familiar with the K2006, but it appears from what I am reading and researching, that the 44 ml mark of water requires 5 drops, then shake and match the color, like the Taylor K-1000. The reagent may be a different one (neither here, nor there).
Where and how did you test and how many drops of what reagent did you add?
Once you get a reading, go to pool math and if your PH is high (muriatic acid) and PH is low, you can use Borax, Soda Ash or natural aeration.
Please advise! Video below on the K-2006 PH Test. Don't you love You Tube?
JimSwim.com Testing Water pH Levels with Taylor K-2006 Test Kit - YouTube
- - - Updated - - -
Unless there is a 2006 kit, without the K (not sure).
I am not familiar with the K2006, but it appears from what I am reading and researching, that the 44 ml mark of water requires 5 drops, then shake and match the color, like the Taylor K-1000. The reagent may be a different one (neither here, nor there).
Where and how did you test and how many drops of what reagent did you add?
Once you get a reading, go to pool math and if your PH is high (muriatic acid) and PH is low, you can use Borax, Soda Ash or natural aeration.
Please advise! Video below on the K-2006 PH Test. Don't you love You Tube?
JimSwim.com Testing Water pH Levels with Taylor K-2006 Test Kit - YouTube
- - - Updated - - -
Unless there is a 2006 kit, without the K (not sure).
I haven't seen a pH test that requires more than 5 drops. Are you doing the acid demand test?
If your pH is 8.5 or higher I would add enough MA to get to 7.5 per pool math. It may take more than one addition of MA to get there. Retest TA once you get there and let us know.
If your pH is 8.5 or higher I would add enough MA to get to 7.5 per pool math. It may take more than one addition of MA to get there. Retest TA once you get there and let us know.
That is what I was thinking. Although my friend has a Taylor Kit and he used 5 drops of 2 different reagents. I do not remember if this was PH or FC. That would be a PIA for either in the basic daily testing. I have extra kit's as I am always giving them away to people I meet.
I own a K2006, it only requires 5 drops of Phenol red, then cap and invert to mix, and read the color match.
What requires 5 drops of 2 different reagents? Is it the FC or something else? Or maybe I am off on this one. Thank you.
Hmm, I think you may be thinking of a different kit. The FC is a FAS/DPD, and both TA & CH use three reagents.
Must be the Taylor 2005 kit. It was definitely a Taylor Kit as my friend was on face time with me when he was performing the CYA test. Thanks for your help. Hopefully, the member will respond to the post. Have a nice weekend!
Hey, I'm sorry I meant the acid demand test took 18 drops to reach the top color which is dark pink and 19-20 to reach 7.5 which is orange. My plan is to make my now ph in pool math to 8.2 and then target of 7.5 and add 2/3 of muriatic acid and re test a hour later and readjust as needed.
Grady:
I would not be too concerned about acid demand test. Just use pool math to figure out how much to lower. It is suggested you use 1/2 of what is needed, wait 4-6 hours and test again, and then adjust one more time. You do not want to lower the PH too much. More work, but safer.
I would not be too concerned about acid demand test. Just use pool math to figure out how much to lower. It is suggested you use 1/2 of what is needed, wait 4-6 hours and test again, and then adjust one more time. You do not want to lower the PH too much. More work, but safer.
When taking a ph test with a Taylor 2006, do you take the color sample right away right. Because I noticed if you wait 45-60 seconds it changes to a dark color. Thanks
I noticed this myself, especially with the kit. The PH usually gets lighter and chlorine darker. We have been informed through the years to match the color sample right away (within 10-15 seconds). This would be my best guess. The extended test confirms this.
Ok thank you for your response. I've noticed my filter is reading only 1 psi. When I first had it running it was 2.5 psi. I did have a algae filled pool. Would that mean it needs a deep cleaning? My worry is the stain on the water line. I'm wondering if it's the circulation or a chemical imbalance. I've tried scrubbing with a brush but to no avail.im thinking to fill the pool up with 2 inches of water to have it soak in with the chlorine and see if that helps.!
Please read my previous posts about the water line. Regarding your PSI, your pressure gauge is probably broken. The pressure goes up, not down. It is very possible that you need a deep cleaning, especially if the pressure is correct. How old is your sand in your filter? When was the last time it was cleaned?
I bought it this year, the Sand was bought about 2 months ago. I don't know how the gauge broke its brand new too lol... I may have a gauge around the house. Maybe I'll try replacing it. While scrubbing with some bathroom scrub and rag, whatever the stain is coming onto the rag black stuff. But I can't get it off completely. I will try getting the magic eraser and magic jacks(can you buy it at the supermarket)? It did rain here the last few days so I'm not too sure what is going on anymore. Pools are a Pita. Lol
Attachments
Magic Jack is not a supermarket item and I do not believe pool stores carry it, but you can try. Be extremely careful with the magic eraser (test a spot and not too hard).