Water Slowly Dripping from Scupper

DSMinAtlanta

Silver Supporter
Jun 27, 2023
192
Atlanta, GA
Hello,

We have a new pool that was completed a little over a month ago. We have a feature wall with three scuppers which are controlled via a diverter and IntelliValve. We recently noticed that when the diverter is in the closed position for the scuppers, there appears to be a small amount of water dripping out of the scupper closest to the house. This is days after the scuppers were last turned on. Is it possible that the diverter is still allowing a tiny bit of water through when the pump is running? Is there anything else I should check?

Here is a picture of the scuppers where you’ll see only one of them has water dripping from it:

IMG_5688.jpeg

Here is the IntelliValve (in the scuppers on position, it’s usually at the position 0 with the scuppers off):

IMG_5534.jpeg
 
DS,

I would assume that the Diverter valves is leaking.. Either a bad seal, or maybe a little glue got in the seal area when the plumbing was being glued together.

The IntelliValve is not the problem, it would be diverter valve that is being turned by the IntelliValve.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
DS,

I would assume that the Diverter valves is leaking.. Either a bad seal, or maybe a little glue got in the seal area when the plumbing was being glued together.

The IntelliValve is not the problem, it would be diverter valve that is being turned by the IntelliValve.

Thanks,

Jim R.
That's what I suspected. Can the diverter be replaced/repaired without re-gluing any of the pipes? We had issues with the equipment installer and I was trying to avoid having him come back. If this is something I can replace/repair then I'll ask the pool builder to drop off the replacement part(s).
 
If it's leaking, it will likely be the diverter assembly. That's the paddle looking thing in the diagram. You can see a seal around the outer border. That may be damaged.

As Jim mentioned, there may be some glue that is compromising a tight seal. You'll find that out when you take the valve part. Just check the sealing surfaces for any glue or other type of damage or deformities.
 
Make sure you get the right part number. I realized the screenshot diagram I posted is not for a Never Lube valve (note the round grease fitting in the diagram #8).

Sorry.
No worries. I appreciate the help! One other question. When I'm putting everything back together and reinstalling the IntelliValve, how do I ensure that the position of the Jandy valve is correct? Is it keyed a specific way so that you know that position 0 on the IntelliValve is truly lined up with the closed position of the Jandy valve?
 

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The cover on the Jandy valve has "inlet" embossed on the cover. Make a note of the position and reinstall the same way.

When you remove the cover, note the position of the diverter. When installing return to the same position. The diverter shaft is notched so the actuator should only go on one way.
 
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IMG_5700.jpeg

I opened up the Jandy diverter a few minutes ago. There was a tiny bit of pvc glue on the top seal where you can see more glue on the hard plastic part. I didn’t find much in the way of glue along the inside edges of the diverter where the seal would be touching. It’s not clear to me why water is getting past this but I’m going to replace this part to see if that fixes it as I imagine even a tiny bit of pvc glue can compromise the seal.

Thanks again for the help. It was easy to take apart and I was happy to see that the IntelliValve is keyed so you can’t really put it on the wrong way.
 
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Well it looks like I spoke too soon. I came home from work today and found the scupper dripping again. I'm going to order the repair kit next. I hate spending my own money on this but I don't trust the builder to do it correctly. The correct part number is 4720 since my 3-way diverter is model 4717. Are there any known reputable online retailers for pool parts? Here is just one of many listings I found: Jandy Neverlube Diverter Valve Replacement Kit

I see there are also lots of non-OEM options online but I'd rather stick to OEM.
 
YES...stick with Jandy/Zodiac. I got burned on Amazon with a fake "Jandy" check valve. I returned it and found the cheapest price at the place below. I contacted them first and they assured me it was a Jandy/Zodiac part. It was. Quick shipping and best price I could find.

Think about buying the whole valve for about $15 more. It good to have all the extra parts (cover, screws, body, handle etc) on hand.


 
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YES...stick with Jandy/Zodiac. I got burned on Amazon with a fake "Jandy" check valve. I returned it and found the cheapest price at the place below. I contacted them first and they assured me it was a Jandy/Zodiac part. It was. Quick shipping and best price I could find.

Think about buying the whole valve for about $15 more. It good to have all the extra parts (cover, screws, body, handle etc) on hand.


Thank you! I may buy the whole valve just to get the handle. I wish the builder had left the handles so I could adjust them manually should the IntelliValves ever fail.
 
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I applaud you for your efforts, but man... with a 1 month old pool the only work I would be doing with my hands is calling the builder.
 
I applaud you for your efforts, but man... with a 1 month old pool the only work I would be doing with my hands is calling the builder.
I hear you but if you search for my other thread on pool equipment you'll see why I don't want them coming back to touch anything unless it's something I can't do myself. Trust me I'm very very angry about the whole situation but trying to just fix whatever I can and move on. The last time the builder had their installer come out he told me he wanted to 'clean up some wires and zip tie a few things' and I came home to a non-functional heater bypass and a misconfigured heater. I now have a padlock on my IntelliCenter and a camera facing the equipment pad because I don't trust the guy at all. His work is just sloppy. This is just another example of his work. When you read the install instructions for these Jandy valves, the first thing it says is to remove the valve before gluing the PVC (which makes sense) but he clearly didn't do so.

My latest discovery this week while registering my Pentair equipment was that the builder installed the propane model MasterTemp heater even though we have natural gas. So now I will be taking it apart to see if they actually swapped the orifice so that it is properly 'converted' to natural gas. We are planning to email the builder but I don't expect much from them. They will likely get angry that I'm fixing things myself rather than offer to help. The last interaction I had with the owner of the company was him telling me he was going to have a Pentair rep meet with me "next week". That was weeks ago and he never called me back.
 
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I found the whole valve on Amazon for close to the same price with Prime shipping so it was already delivered and appears to be genuine OEM. I’ll swap out the internals this weekend.

Another question regarding these Jandy valves. I see in the install guide that you are supposed to position the cover with the ‘inlet’ imprint facing the inflow of water. While that is the case with this valve, it’s not with my heater bypass. See the picture below. The water flow comes in from the right side. Heater is on the left of the valve. The inlet is facing the SWG. Is this something else I need to fix?

Edit: Looking at the guide I see that the inlet is there because of the protruding stops that prevent the handle from being turned in the wrong position blocking the inflow. So maybe it's not as important when you have an IntelliValve installed?

IMG_5734.jpeg
 
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