Water Nice And Clear But..........

Jump to latest Follow Reply
T

taylormade

0
May 11, 2017
29
Hamilton, Ontario
I know it's a busy time but hoping someone has advice. My pool has been perfect all year, lately we had a lot of rain and I had a big party. During the party I noticed several specks of what looks like mustard algae starting on the corners of the stairs and in my swim up spa area. The only way I could get rid of them was with a pot scrubber (steel wool), regular pool brush couldn't do it. They came back so I went to my local pool shop they told me my Alkalinity level was low and this caused my chlorine to not work as my chlorine level was fine and they suggested I shock the pool and put in 20 cups of Alkalinity Increaser. I put in the increaser and 20 gallons of chlorine yesterday and brushed the entire pool. This morning I brushed the pool again and after work today I noticed the specks still there so I just scrubbed them off again, they are probably all over the pool but they are hard to see on the liner.

My pool is salt water 85,000 liters with a liner, temp 84 degrees, sand filter, I filter 12 hours on weekends and 6 hours on week days, my readings before I shocked were

Free Chlorine 2.26
Total Chlorine 2.42
Combined 0.16
pH 7.7
Hardness 53 ppm
Alkalinity (w/stabilizer correction) 50 ppm
Cyanuric Acid (just says over 16 ppm)
Copper 0.1
Iron 0.1
Phosphate 2308ppb
Salt...they said it was fine

I just have the strips to check but it still shows lots of chlorine from the shock, I called the pool shop back and they said to put an algicide puck in the skimmer and wait. I already had a puck in the skimmer so this is where I am now. I have a bad feeling that things will get worse

John
 
Sadly, we prefer to not provide chemistry guidance based on pool store tests.

As you are in Canada, it is somewhat more difficult to get a proper test kit.

Consider obtaining a Taylor K2006C.

Take care.
 
Wait ... I thought the pool store line was that chlorine did not work at high pH .... now it also does not work at low TA ... :roll: :laughblue:

Afraid I agree with the above that you really need a reliable test kit to take control of your pool.

Algae results for the FC being too low for your CYA according to the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].
TA was not your problem.

Also have no idea what an "algaecide" puck is. But, if you just put a trichlor puck in your skimmer, that is also something we do not recommend.
 
I can and will get a good kit, thanks for the quick replies, Is it possible that it is a hard to scrub off mustard algae and can that occur while my chlorine level is good? Ouch the k2006C is 240.00

- - - Updated - - -

taylormade said:
I can and will get a good kit, thanks, Is it possible that it is mustard algae though as it is so hard to scrub off and can that occur while my chlorine level is good?
Click to expand...

\Sorry couldn't find how to delete this post
 
Costly. I thought the same thing when I hesitated buying a test kit. But I promise you the kit will pay for itself when you're able to get your pool under control by knowing your precise chemical levels and how to control them.

It will save you money that the pool store would've gladly collected with a smile while handing out bad advice. It will save you time and headache.

These folks give great advice, and the suggestion of buying a quality test kit is some of that great advice.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Gene Clean said:
Normally a higher CYA is recommended for SWCG pools TA is a bit low, and you have a higher pH as well. Get your CYA up to around 75 and SLAM.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this

- - - Updated - - -

Flying Tivo said:
You can have it drop shipped to the border at a pobox and pick it up. That is what i do.

Felipe
Click to expand...

Thanks Felipe, but I just ordered and paid the 50 bucks for delivery.

- - - Updated - - -

jblizzle said:
Mustard algae is typically not just small spots. And I thought it brushed off easily. And typically grew in the shade.

Post up a picture of your spots.
Click to expand...

You have to look hard to see it
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1884.jpg
    IMG_1884.jpg
    18 KB · Views: 177
Don't raise your CYA above about 30ppm until after the SLAM Process process if required.

I am not sure I see anything :D

Do the spots feel slimy or rough?
Can you get anything under your fingernail and smear on a piece of paper?

If not slimy, perhaps set a vitamin C tablet on one and see if it goes away in a minute or so.
 
Yes the 75 CYA I recommended would be AFTER, my bad John. Reason for that is a CYA level of 30 ppm will take far less LC to raise to shock level, making it much easier to maintain during the process, as well as saving money. As the photo goes, Im in the same boat, with not seeing much of anything.
 
K2005 does not have the DPD test required for the SLAM process. K2006 or the K2006C are whats required for proper pool care. The reason for this is due to the dye used in the K2005 version. It will fail to give you the accuracy you require for SLAM. The K2006C eliminates the use color matching, and uses a drop test method instead, which gives you specific numbers. The T-100 is also more preferred, but that too may have shipping problems.
 
Gene Clean said:
K2005 does not have the DPD test required for the SLAM process. K2006 or the K2006C are whats required for proper pool care. The reason for this is due to the dye used in the K2005 version. It will fail to give you the accuracy you require for SLAM. The K2006C eliminates the use color matching, and uses a drop test method instead, which gives you specific numbers. The T-100 is also more preferred, but that too may have shipping problems.
Click to expand...

Thanks, appreciate your time, both of you.
 
Ok I hope you have heard some stupid things around here but this might take the cake. Last night I scrubbed off what I thought was algae on my fiberglass swim up spa with steel wool. Today the alleged algae was much worse but just in the spa area, my fiberglass stairs were fine. I believe what I am actually seeing is rust from the tiny particles of steel that detached from the steel wool. I gave it one heck of a scrub last night and some of the marks are no longer little dots but some are like little strands of "rust marks". I apologize for taking everyone's time.....at least I have a nice test kit in the mail :) Now I have to figure out how to get the rust marks off of the fiberglass, may have to wait until I drain the pool in the fall as scrubbing them with a non-steel wool pot scrubber with comet isn't working.
 
Get a handful of cheap Vitamin C tabs and put them in an old sock. Crush them up a bit and hold the sock on the rust stains. They will disappear ----

But it is still very good you now have a proper test kit!!
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply