So I just did a dump-and-refill of my spa (used ahh-some to clean it out - love that stuff!) and now I'm rebalancing the water. I have followed the recommendations for a chlorine spa posted here, but I actually use the SWG system from Control-o-matic, SmarterSpa. Their recommendations are slightly different and I've always been torn over which to follow. For instance, my CH starts at 25 w/city water, here 150 is the recommended level, but control-o-matic says 200-400. Re/TA, my water starts at 30, here it suggests 50, but control-o-matic says 80-120. The differences don't seem that big so I'm inclined to go with theirs since I'm using their SWG, but if those actually are big differences I don't want to go the wrong way. Any thoughts are much appreciated!
Water balance ... recommended levels here vs. from SmarterSpa
- Thread starter joecooler
- Start date
Hootz
Bronze Supporter
- Feb 5, 2018
- 374
- Pool Size
- 24000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
CH is not near as important with fiberglass as it is with a plaster surface but there are some factors with fiberglass. I see the ideal TFP CH levels for fiberglass as 350-550 with a minimum of 250 so the manufacturer suggestion of 200-400 is a little low on the minimum. The TA levels are too high as recomended by the manufacturer. TFP ideal levels are 60-80....would suggest nothing above 80 to keep the PH from swinging.
Now I'm more confused ... the post that is pinned to the top of this section of the forum recommends CH of 150!
Looking at the recommendations for my spa, the booklet lists "dissolved solids" at 100-200ppm. I assume that is CH since all the other recommendations are identifiable as something else (FC, TA, etc). TA is recommended at 80-100.
I'm inclined to go w/200 CH since that fits in the range of both manufacturers (spa maker and SWG maker), and 80 TA for the same reason. Does that sound reasonable?
Looking at the recommendations for my spa, the booklet lists "dissolved solids" at 100-200ppm. I assume that is CH since all the other recommendations are identifiable as something else (FC, TA, etc). TA is recommended at 80-100.
I'm inclined to go w/200 CH since that fits in the range of both manufacturers (spa maker and SWG maker), and 80 TA for the same reason. Does that sound reasonable?
Last edited:
Hootz
Bronze Supporter
- Feb 5, 2018
- 374
- Pool Size
- 24000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
That sticky was posted in 2008....some suggested levels have changed since then. Go here: What Are My Ideal Pool Levels? - Trouble Free Pool and view levels for a fiberglass pool with swg...this is where I got the levels I posted. Not sure what "dissolved solids" refers to. The difference between 250 and 200 CH is not very significant with fiberglass....your call. The TA levels when kept above 80 will make it harder to maintain a constant PH level
I did notice the date and was wondering about that ... but I'm also wondering about the recommendations from TFP since they are for pools. I'm going to stick w/200 CH for now ... that's what I've been doing and it seems to be working. Maybe I'll go for a lower TA since I have a lot of trouble getting my pH to be stable below 8 ... it has been very stubborn at 8.2 for the last couple of fills.
Hmm. It really depends if the spa is fiberglass or just straight molded plastic. If plastic, then I'm pretty certain values for vinyl pools apply, which means a CH of 0 is fine (though I've heard below around 100 there may be foaming issues).
If I recall correctly the high CH levels for fiberglass is because there are some gel coatings that for whatever reason can be affected negatively with a negative CSI (which a low CH would cause). But wherever I read that was saying newer gel coatings no longer had issues like this and could be treated like vinyl pools where a negative CSI isn't an issue.
Now I need to go post in the Deep End to figure out the reason that some fiberglass gel coatings can get damaged by negative CSI...
If I recall correctly the high CH levels for fiberglass is because there are some gel coatings that for whatever reason can be affected negatively with a negative CSI (which a low CH would cause). But wherever I read that was saying newer gel coatings no longer had issues like this and could be treated like vinyl pools where a negative CSI isn't an issue.
Now I need to go post in the Deep End to figure out the reason that some fiberglass gel coatings can get damaged by negative CSI...
This is a Vita Spa. No idea what it's made of but I don't think it's fiberglass. How would I find out? Oh, wait, I see in the brochure it says acrylic ... so that would be plastic right?
Yeah. Clear acrylic is known more commonly by the trademark Plexiglass. Acrylic is a thermoplastic, which means you can heat it, it becomes soft, and hardens on cooling. This makes it convenient to heat mold sheets of plastic into various shapes, like a hot tub.
Anyway, that's besides the point. Key is that it's not fiberglass with a gel coating, so I'm pretty sure low CH levels aren't an issue for it.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,080
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Total dissolved solids are a measure of everything in your water like salt, cya, & bather waste left behind. If u change your water regularly they are not an issue. As they build most notice persistent cc’s which signals it’s time for a water change.
I don’t see this in the sticky but it’s possible it’s mentioned somewhere. I have no way to test tds myself but the pool stores regularly include it. Generally not a necessary test.
About alk- i keep mine @ 50 - I almost never need to add acid . I have a saltron mini though - not sure if that matters.
I think the important thing is keeping ph under control- the right alk (for your tub) does this as Nitro mentioned in the sticky
(couldn’t get the quote feature to work)
“Let me repeat the last sentence, because it's the single most important thing to keeping your water balanced. The key to having balanced water, without pH drift, is having the correct TA level. If you find your pH rises too high (>8.0) after using your tub, your TA is too high, and needs to be lowered. If you find your pH is too low and/or your water is continually acidic, your TA is too low and needs to be raised. By fine tuning your TA, you can get your pH perfectly balanced, that rarely needs adjustment.”
The exact # depends on your particular tub- if its 80 great
if it’s lower fine.
Since ch really isn’t an issue for your style tub u could take it or leave it. Some add a dab & some don’t. If u have foaming or scaling issues change it up.
I don’t see this in the sticky but it’s possible it’s mentioned somewhere. I have no way to test tds myself but the pool stores regularly include it. Generally not a necessary test.
About alk- i keep mine @ 50 - I almost never need to add acid . I have a saltron mini though - not sure if that matters.
I think the important thing is keeping ph under control- the right alk (for your tub) does this as Nitro mentioned in the sticky
(couldn’t get the quote feature to work)“Let me repeat the last sentence, because it's the single most important thing to keeping your water balanced. The key to having balanced water, without pH drift, is having the correct TA level. If you find your pH rises too high (>8.0) after using your tub, your TA is too high, and needs to be lowered. If you find your pH is too low and/or your water is continually acidic, your TA is too low and needs to be raised. By fine tuning your TA, you can get your pH perfectly balanced, that rarely needs adjustment.”
The exact # depends on your particular tub- if its 80 great
if it’s lower fine.Since ch really isn’t an issue for your style tub u could take it or leave it. Some add a dab & some don’t. If u have foaming or scaling issues change it up.