Venting indoor Raypak Heater with D2

[Indoor Pool]

I have a Raypak 266 BTU pool heater inside my home. I just installed a D2 power vent replacing an old Tjerlund fan venting to the side of my house. I need to replace the vent pipe. Do I need double wall vent pipe? Can I use B pipe or do I need to use Category III pipe? Do I need a drain line in the pipe? Which companies product do you recommend and where is the best place to get? Thank you in advance for your help.

 

[swamprat69]

This appears to be the latest " INSTALLATION & OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS " for the D2. https://cdn.globalimageserver.com/FetchDocument.aspx?ID=FE47F77A-94AD-4024-AEE9-A67D4BC8C21C It is categorized as a Class III venting system ! All venting materials would need to conform to Class III venting regulations. Would also need to see the outdoor termination for the vent. Is the window to the right of the heater above grade or in a window well? If you look at page 10, it appears the you do not conform to minimum clearance "G" Clearance to inside corner and possibly minimum clearance "B" Clearance to window or door that may be opened. At the outdoor vent termination you may also run into a problem with clearance above any expected snow level. The transition through the wall may also need to conform to Class III venting regulations and since you live in a cold climate, you may also need to be pitched with a condensation trap added, page 9 " For appliances installed in extremely cold climates, it is recommended that: a) The vent be installed with a slight upward slope of not more than 1/4” per foot of horizontal run to the vent terminal. In this case, an approved condensation trap must be installed per applicable codes. b) The vent be insulated through the length of the horizontal run". What other gas appliances are in what I assume is the basement? This is why the manual states " Installation and service must be performed by a qualified installer, service agency or the gas supplier. "

 

[Indoor Pool]

It is not a well. The window is about 6’ off the ground and the vent is about 8’ off the ground on an outside corner. It is a walkout basement. The manual is referring to an inside corner at the termination outside of the building, not inside. I used to have a mechanical contractors license. I have never used category III venting. I now have and the project is done. Thank you for taking the time to quote the instructions from the installation manual that I already read. The local boiler installer and the engineer from the category III manufacture I chose said I didn’t need a drain based on the temperature of the flue gases and the short run. I replaced a Tjerlund power vent that was installed 28 years ago using B pipe and snap lock with lots of caulking.

 

[proavia]

It may be best to contact your local building authority and see what they require. Codes can vary quite a bit between municipalities.

 

[PoolJW]

I have almost the same project that you just finished; installed new Raypak heaters and taking the power venters out of the flue pipe and using the D2 hood. Inexperienced me thought i would just go to home depot and buy the pipe and slap it together. Now that I’m well into the project i’m finding it’s a lot more difficult. i haven’t even found the pipe locally after spending much of today running around. The best hope i had was an HVAC supply store but was “Trades Only” and didn’t even want to talk to me. they referred me to a stoves, pools, and spas retail store but that guy took me info and said he had to look for it in the computer. waiting for more info from them.
what brand did you select and is it single or double walled? did you redo your connection through the wall with the new 4” pipe or did you connect to the existing 6” (or 6.5” ??) pipe that your photo shows? my plan was to leave that piece and the outside vent hood and use an upsize adapter.