V-Green pump with V-Link automation

[crabboy]

Hello All,
I currently have a Jandy SHPF 1 HP pump that is about 15 years old now and beginning to make a lot of noise. I'd like to replace it with a variable speed pump and like not to change the plumbing. This leaves my options to another Jandy pump or keep my existing wet end. I've been contemplating sticking a V-Green 1.65 pump on there and it looks to be an okay option for variable speed. My current setup is all manual with dual Intermatic timers and I'd be nice to have an app interface with it.

I see there is a V-Link available for the v-Green motor but it does not come highly reviewed. From the reviews I've read the flaws are that it must interface with an Internet server and the servers have questionable uptimes. The biggest issue of all for me is that when the V-Link is connected, the pump cannot be controlled manually from the motors panel.

Questions for the masses:
Is the V-Green a good motor for my Stealth SHPF 1.0 wet end?
Can anyone with a V-Link confirm the info in the reviews that I have read?
Anyone try sniffing the traffic between the v-link and the servers?
Anyone try reverse engineering the RS485 communication between the pump and V-Link?

Thanks
Gary

 

[RMcGirr83]

A member recently did something similar to this, let's ping him. @setsailsoon

 

[setsailsoon]

c,

Hi, I replaced the motor on my Jandy FHPM 1.-2 pump 3 months ago. Worked like a charm and was an exact fit so it was very easy to do. My pump was only 7 years old so the motor only approach was the best on my budget and I couldn't afford the best VS pump on the market (Pentair-my opinion and a couple experts here). With your 15 year old pump it's probably a closer call. If I had a 15 year old pump I'd probably still do it so long as the pump has no major flaws. You should replace the pump seal regardless as I did. Here are some things I learned from this project:

• The V-Green has a built in 24 hr timer so you can use the timer to control with no additional equipment. You can set up to 3 different speeds and the time for each one. Just wire the power to your current switch or timer.
• In my case I have automation and I used the digital inputs to vary speed. They are very versatile and will accept a 12-30 vac or dc signal.
• The digital inputs are a piece of cake to wire up. The way the pump controls work is they designate the speeds as different "steps". You set each step speed to whatever level you desire. Then you set each step for the desired number of hours. The total of each speed you select has to add up to 24 hrs. Digital inputs over-ride the timer settings. If Step 2 digital input is triggered the pump switches to Step 2 speed. When it's not triggered the pump goes back to whatever is set on the timer.
• There is a generic RS 485 that does not communicate with the protocol of any manufacturer unless you use an interface board that is sold separately. The Link system is a separate add on and I saw no benefit to it. I used the digital inputs and could easily do this with no extra $ so I didn't do either. If I had to I'd buy the RS 485 adapter.
• If you have no plans to add automation just use the internal timer. If you add automation in the future the motor is very easy to control with any brand automation using the digital inputs.
• I have a more complex control system with a solar panel array, gas heater, and spa. I needed to be able to trigger high speed any time the gas heater or solar panel was called for so I used signals from the controller that close the solar bypass and the signal internal to the heater that opens the gas valve to trigger high speed. Works like a charm! When a cloud obscures the sun the pump drops back to low speed. Similarly when the pool or spa has reached desired temp and the gas valve closes the pump drops back to default speed. So I set Step 1 to 1750 rpm for 24 hrs on the timer. Then I set step 2 and 3 for 2850 rpm for 0 hrs each. When either of these are triggered from the digital inputs the pump kicks up to high speed. When non are called for it just switches back to the "default" step 1 low speed.
• They make a V-Green to fit any pump. The only difference in the different models for each hp rating is the flange design Your supplier can verify the model number for you. I believe your stealth is the same face flange design as my pump but you should confirm when you order.
• The only weakness in the motor design itself is that the cover over the wiring compartment has a very tiny o-ring that seals the hold down screw. This is easily addressed with a blob of sealant. Just make sure everything works for a day or two first. The o-ring works fine but after many uses it can fail.
• Since the motor hp is much greater than your original pump you can increase the size of the impeller in the pump to match the motor's capacity. It's cheap and easy to do so I did it. But not necessary. You get 90% of the savings by just replacing the pump and using the VS capability. If you want more information on this option I can tell you how I sized mine.
• There's a fairly wide range on the price of the pump - around $400 or a little less from eBay suppliers to over $450 for the more expensive places. Inyopool had a great price and provides great phone customer service. Many of the eBay suppliers only offer email support. Not a bad thing for me since I figured out the installation myself very easily. But could be frustrating if you need the help.

I hope this helps and please feel free to ask any more questions.

Chris

 

[crabboy]

Thanks Chris, this is great info, I ordered the pump yesterday. I saw the current automation offerings and none really suited what I wanted to do.

I think I'll just stick with the pump for now and work with the on-board timer, I'll then decide weather to get the v-link and try to see if I can capture the RS485 communication between the two with an oscilloscope. Not much else to do suck in the house

 

[crabboy]

I just installed the v-green and it was fairly easy. I think the hardest part was removing the impeller (had to use a strap wrench) and the motor bolts didn't want to break loose.

All is together and running great. I have a few questions though.

It seems I have to continue using my dual timer to operate the pump for my Polaris booster and my chlorinator. This is a bit inconvenient if I want to run the pump outside of the scheduled time. Correct me if I am wrong, but I don't see a binary output on the pump to know if its running.

I think I either have use my manual timers and then fudge the override if I run it outside of the start time or rig up a more advanced automation that controls the chlorinator and booster pumps via relays and then the binary inputs on the v-green.

 

[mknauss]

Your VS pump should be direct wired to your CB or through the hot side of your time. You use its on board timer/scheduler for it and then use your other timer to schedule your SWCG and pressure side cleaner within the time your pump is to be on.

Integrated automation systems typically are of all one manufacturer, such as Pentair, Jandy, Hayward, etc. Automation. pump, and SWCG all from one manufacturer.