Using more Liquid Chlorine than necessary to SLAM

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vegaspool112

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Jun 5, 2018
17
Las Vegas
After stabilizing TA to 90 and and a CYA of 60 --- I started to SLAM by pouring 2 Gallons of Liquid Chlorine 3x a day 6 hours apart.

I realized that my current Taylor kit was not able to show me the FC over 10 PPM. So I ordered TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-2006 TEST KIT COMP CHLORINE FAS-DPD


My Question is...Since I am assuming that I am using more Chlorine than necessary based on the CYA Chart Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart and based on the recommendations of https://www.poolcalculator.com --- ( My K-2006 is coming on Monday ) - Is there any harm in continuing to SLAM my pool with 2 Gallons of Liquid Chlorine 3x day until my new kit arrives ?

Currently with my existing Kit, I have not bothered to take any FC readings since it doesn't show over 5 ppm, and PH is supposed to be irradic ( so while SLAMing I am not measuring PH ). So essentialy I stopped testing until the new KIT get delivered. BUT I am still SLAMming the pool.

Any advice ?
 
According to Pool Math, adding 6 gallons of 6.75% bleach to a 7000 gallon pool will raise your FC by 73 ppm. Yeah, that's a little high. I'd shoot for 5 ppm.
 
jeffchap said:
According to Pool Math, adding 6 gallons of 6.75% bleach to a 7000 gallon pool will raise your FC by 73 ppm. Yeah, that's a little high. I'd shoot for 5 ppm.
Click to expand...

I'm not dumping 6 gallons in all at one time, I'm dumping it in at 6 hour intervals, so I am assuming that the Sun is burning some of it off. MY Liquid Chlorine is 10%

But YES, Hopefully I will get the new test kit by Monday and will have more accurate results.

As of right now, There is probably no reason to do any tests since my FC is SKY High, correct ?
 
First and foremost, WELCOME TO TFP!!

I see in a post above you mentioned the Pool Calculator. While some of the calculations behind the scenes are the same TFP does NOT support all of the math behind the scenes. Instead we use Pool Math as this is setup and maintained by TFP, and rest assure, you won’t see any Ads selling you some copper products on our calculator. ;)

For now you’re likely best just playing damage control. I personally would only add one gallon of 10% a day as you likely won’t make much progress attempting to dose “blind.” I doubt adding two per day would hurt anything but you likely won’t get far.
 
Thanks for all the replies...

Another question: Before I started SLAMing I had CYA @ 57-60 level ---- now after a few days its showing i have 80 CYA.

Could the true levels of my CYA reading be off because of all the chlorine I have been dumping in ?
 
Nope......a high FC level won't interfere with your CYA reading. Have you added any stabilized chlorine such as a bag of "shock" or pucks???
 

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leebo said:
nope......a high fc level won't interfere with your cya reading. Have you added any stabilized chlorine such as a bag of "shock" or pucks???
Click to expand...

no zero - shock or pucks outside of the liquid chlorine 10%.

- - - Updated - - -

Leebo said:
Nope......a high FC level won't interfere with your CYA reading. Have you added any stabilized chlorine such as a bag of "shock" or pucks???
Click to expand...

NO ZERO - SHOCK OR PUCKS OUTSIDE OF THE LIQUID CHLORINE 10%.

I will re-test again in a few hours. - maybe the test with filling up the little measuring tube and adding the mixed pool water with the Regent until you can't see the black dot is very subjective. ??
 
vegaspool112 said:
no zero - shock or pucks outside of the liquid chlorine 10%.

- - - Updated - - -
Got the new TEST KIT --- and here are the latest results..

Ph Over 8 -- 1) how would I measure the exact if the test kit only goes up to 8 ? --- 2) How would I know how much PH Down to add If I don't have exact measure of PH ?

FC = 5.5 ppm
CC - .5
TA = 130
CYA = 73

Water is cloudy green like its been for a long time, very very slight improvement from a week ago.

3) Do I add PH down to lower the PH or do I continue SLAMING and only when water is clear do I go back to lowering the PH ?

Thanks in advance ....
Click to expand...
 
Use muriatic acid to lower pH.
Use PoolMath to determine how much. Input your test results in Now. Use 8 for pH. Put 7.2 in Target. Add that much muriatic acid. Circulate pool for 30 minutes. Test pH, use that test value in Now, 7.2 in Target, repeat until you get pH of 7.2

Do this prior to raising your FC.


Your CYA is 80 (round up). That makes SLAM level FC at 31 ppm.

- - - Updated - - -

What type filter do you have? Can you add more detail to your signature?
 
mknauss said:
Use muriatic acid to lower pH.
Use PoolMath to determine how much. Input your test results in Now. Use 8 for pH. Put 7.2 in Target. Add that much muriatic acid. Circulate pool for 30 minutes. Test pH, use that test value in Now, 7.2 in Target, repeat until you get pH of 7.2

Do this prior to raising your FC.


Your CYA is 80 (round up). That makes SLAM level FC at 31 ppm.

- - - Updated - - -

What type filter do you have? Can you add more detail to your signature?
Click to expand...

I have filter cartridges just replaced a month ago.

PH went down to 7.8 now. I am continuing to apply PH Down until it gets to 7.2, Do I go back to SLAMing the pool then ?
 
Once you get pH to 7.2 resume the SLAM.

I encourage you to use muriatic acid to control your pH. The dry acid is sodium bisulfate. The sulfates will build up in your water and destroy metal, concrete, plaster, etc.

Take care.
 
I took my chemical readings this morning:

PH 7.8
CYA 80
TA 90
FC 10PPM

I dumped 1.5 gallons of 10% liquid Chlorine.

4 hours later....

my FC is 16 PPM ---- My SHOCK FC should have been 31 PPM based on Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

1) Is the reason that my FC reading is only 6pmm higher than my original reading ( 10ppm ) because I didn't give it enough time to diffuse in the pool before checking ?? ( I checked only 4 hours after I poured in the 10% liquid chlorine ).

2) According to Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain ------> [PH fluctauates when Slamming], So my question is: Is it important to measure PH when SLamming ? And if you are measuring PH, how do you know if you reading is accurate or not ?

3) My Taylor K-2006 ( Fas-DPD chlorine ) kit - tells me fill up the glass tube ONLY to 10 mL add 2 scoops of R-0870 ( water then becomes PINK )- then to keep adding drop wise R-0871 until the water becomes clear. And the to multiply amount of drops by .5ppm ---It seems that I am using alot of R-0871 --- to reach a Target Shock level of 31 ppm --- I would need to use 62 drops of R-0871. This seems excessive and I would probably need a refill soon.
Am I doing something wrong ?

Thanks in advance.
 
Your LC is mixed in less than 30 minutes.

You have organics consuming the chlorine. Test and dose every couple hours.

No need to test pH when SLAM. The pH test is invalid above 10 ppm FC

You have decided to SLAM with a very high CYA. With a non-SWCG pool you should lower your CYA to 50 or so.
You can use a 5 ml sample of water then each drop will be 1 ppm FC. But your error is fairly large. Do not use that for the OCLT or for daily maintenance.
 
" Do not use that for the OCLT or for daily maintenance.[/QUOTE]"

So what your saying is that for the OCLT test I need to use the 10mL sample rate and add the correct amount of R-0871 drops -- in order for it to be precise ?

Also, I am assuming that I will need to get extra R-0871 to last me ?
 
Right. I have always used the 10 ml sample test.

Yes on ordering more reagent. You have the small K2006. That is why we recommend the TF100 or K2006C. They have enough reagents for a typical year.
 
mknauss said:
Right. I have always used the 10 ml sample test.

Yes on ordering more reagent. You have the small K2006. That is why we recommend the TF100 or K2006C. They have enough reagents for a typical year.
Click to expand...


-After adding R-0871 FAS-DPD Reagent drop wise into the test tube, after water changes color form Pink to white.... a few minutes later the water start turning light pink again and then progressively redder/ pinker -- if i leave it in the test tube for a few hours it will eventually become totally red. Is this normal ?

Is my job just to record after how many drops it turns white ?- notwithstanding the fact that it will turn pink ...red if left inside the tube for a while ?
 

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