Upgrade Of Pool Pump, System, Equipment

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I read the link you posted above there. If you find yourself getting readings of like 0-40 ohms like that guy got, double check your connection points. Tighten that screw on your mounting ring good and snug but be careful not to strip it or anything. Don't go gorilla on it but just reasonably snug should suffice. Also be sure there is no gunk around the connection point. A wire brush scrubbing might be warranted. If you can, get it nice an shiny that'll ensure a good connection. If you still get varied readings, make sure the battery or batteries in the meter are fresh. If you still are getting varied readings, 0-40 ohms is still reasonable for a bonding connection.
 
Swimquip Swimquip Light Niche Housing Replacement Part Schematic

Any idea what the term "current collector" refers to on the 120V housing pictured here ? This is on a SwimQuip.

housing05082.jpg


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The thing is, I called one of the places that had those J&J LED lights for sale and the guy on the phone brought up the issue that there's a different model for the SwimQuip, he says it has to do whether it would fit in the SQ niche. Well my niche isn't an SQ far as I can tell. My old light is 7"+ deep and the new LEDs are around 4" deep, so not sure I see the issue. He really wasn't sure as to the answer, but they don't take returns and I think it is a CYA issue for them.

I'm getting to the point of punting and just ordering the same copper case incandescent again.

Here's the J&J LED Pure White, not the the same model special for SwimQuip, which is supposed to be smaller I guess to fit the SQ niche:

pure_white_dimensions.jpg


143290_3_201335143255.jpg
 
OK just figured out the difference in the SQ and regular:


Dimensions Ordering InformationPilot Hole/Catch Tab

Pilot Hole/Catch TabStandard Fixture Version 9 1/2” Center-to-CenterSwimQuip Fixture Version* 8” Center-to-Center

*J&J’s faceplate diameter is larger than the standard SwimQuip faceplate.Ensure there is enough even surface for fixture faceplate to fit flat againstpool wall
Click to expand...

The one I pulled out of there, the face plate is ~10" and the center of the pilot hole is ~9/16" - 3/8" from the edge, so center to center catch tab to pilot hole should be ~9.25" - 9.375", that's pretty close to 9.5".

I get it, the SQ model is designed to fit into a smaller hole, though the faceplate is the same size. The niche I have is plenty big enough though. Too bad the customer service people on the phone can't really give anything but the stock answers and don't seem to have a real understanding of the issues.

Still curious about the "current collector" in the housing on the incandescent model.

Who knew this would be so complicated ? But if it were easy anyone could do it, right ? That's what they pay us the big bucks for ! ! !

:D
 
Diligence pays off! Looks like you've got it figured out! I would DEFINITELY do my best to get the LED lights if possible. My incandescent were quite deep (like 8") but the LEDs light were less than half that and certainly weighed a lot less, too.

I dunno about the 'current collector' metal right they call out there but it must be related to bonding, I'm sure. Maybe by code they have to label something like that similar to bonding lugs you'll find on your pumps.
 
Just ordered the J&J from a company nearby, ie. in Southern California who will ship it out today.

I finally decided on the Colorsplash model, as it was less than $100 more than the PureWhite 500W equivalent. The PureWhite can be put on a dimmer switch but the Colorsplash cannot. The Colorsplash "Arctic White" color is in the range of a 300 - 400W incandescent light. I learned these last two facts by calling J&J.

We'll consult Mike the electrician on the bonding issue, I think I've reached the limit of my ability to understand it. Of course we'll have a GFI in the circuit as well.

Feeling happy to have settled on a light, anyone mind if I share this music video ?

Billie Holiday - Back in your own back yard - YouTube

BTW the current collector, one of the guys at the place I ordered think it has to do with the light bulb fixture itself.

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From the vendor's website -- the Colorsplash:

all_colors_html.jpg


colorsplash_color_show.jpg
 
Funny thought I had posted a reply but must not have clicked it through.

Basically figured with the money saved from a semi DIY can afford to splurge on the light.

Chris, saw your threads about your pool remodel. The equipment schematic will prove useful, I was asking about that earlier. I didn't know about check valves. I didn't see there where your liquid chlorinator fits in. How is that working out by the way ? I think you mentioned an auto water level device but I haven't heard of those. Am I understanding that it will keep the water level in your pool at a constant ?

Lovely Pebble Finish ! I hope to do a plain patch on that delamination I posted. I am realizing the best way to handle it will be to just get the 90 degree corner out of it so dirt and algae can't collect, rather than try to match it perfectly to the pool bottom, which would probably be an exercise in futility.

Measuring progress in inches here but I feel it is forward nonetheless.

:)
 
albert436 said:
Chris, saw your threads about your pool remodel. The equipment schematic will prove useful, I was asking about that earlier. I didn't know about check valves. I didn't see there where your liquid chlorinator fits in. How is that working out by the way ? I think you mentioned an auto water level device but I haven't heard of those. Am I understanding that it will keep the water level in your pool at a constant ?

Lovely Pebble Finish ! I hope to do a plain patch on that delamination I posted. I am realizing the best way to handle it will be to just get the 90 degree corner out of it so dirt and algae can't collect, rather than try to match it perfectly to the pool bottom, which would probably be an exercise in futility.

Measuring progress in inches here but I feel it is forward nonetheless.

:)
Click to expand...

Good eye and catch...didn't think anyone paid attention to that stuff. ;) LOL My LQ has not made its way into the schematic but perhaps one day when it is slow at work I might put it in there during my lunch hour. But it goes between the pump inlet and the pump output. The IntelliFlo has a threaded fitting at the bottom of the pump basket so I attached one of the LQ lines there and then I drilled a hole into the pump output/filter input pipe for the other LQ line. I'm liking the LQ so far. It's a bit of a pain to fill up but I only need to do that once every 10 days or so. It has done fine keeping my pool around 5 ppm FC. I have, however, been delving into SWG as of late. Just thinking about it again.

Yes, I have an auto fill. It is a really simple, purely mechanical device and it sits in the deck next to the skimmer. From above, it looks just like a skimmer. If you ever looked in your toilet tank, it has a float that adjusts to the water level needed and then shuts the water off. My AF works exactly the same way. I haven't had to worry about keeping my pool's water at the same level for 6 weeks now. Quite nice. We'll see how it does over the long run and it doesn't have any sort of safety shut-off should it decide to NOT shut off so that is a bit of a concern. My bad on that as when I told the pool company I wanted an Auto-Fill, I didn't bother to worry about what they were going to put in. Oh well.

Thanks for the compliment on the finish. We like it, too! And the Sheen isn't so rough on the feet or hands. We felt the Tec was a bit too coarse. Good luck on your patching!
 

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Waiting for my light to arrive, shipping from Ontario California so should get here tomorrow.

Mom is out of town and only crazy sister is out there. I may run over there today just for a look as the water level is still dropped down to light level. I was running the pump and filter through the vacuum as the water is too low for the skimmer, but I am not sure my uncooperative sister understands the concept. She took away the on and off screws from the mechanical timers and every time I go over there I find she has turned off the breakers at both new subpanels, at the pool shed and around the back of the house. So kind of working against me, I don't suppose I mentioned this before.

Received my T100 test kit in the mail yesterday, just need to read up on it. Only thing is I can't rely on my dear sister to turn the pump off for me, etc etc, you get the picture. Nevertheless we will continue to work on this and I am confident we will have eventual success.

:D
 
Light installed today, a few questions if you would indulge me.


-We found the bonding wire, here itis with some black electric tape and a yellow cap on it, otherwise you can see it is a solid copper wire. This photo also shows our new PVC conduit where it attaches to the old red brass conduit with a hose clamp. You can see the copper water line to the pool crossing just under all of this.
-I bought an LED light with a 50' cord so we could take it all the way back to the new subpanel.
-We only had to dig down a few inches and it was easy to pull the cord through, so the metal pipe was left up to the level of a couple of inches below the water line.

IMG_20150904_155046.jpg

A. The bonding wire, should it be #8? Should it be solid or is stranded OK ?
B. Should it go all the way back to the subpanel also? (Ie. not "grounded" to anything else but same as the light.)
C. Metal to PVC was tight fit and had to split end of PVC to start it onto metal. Is there anything we could put or spray around it to make sure it stays sealed for ever and ever ? Epoxy putty for example ?

Next issue is the subpanel and boxes. I don't see a ground from the subpanel, although I know there is one on the main panel. There is a 110 GFI outlet coming from the subpanel. The light switch is taking power off of that GFI outlet. Here is a photo of the setup. (I don't see a ground wire from the GFI outlet either.)

IMG_20150904_155557.jpg

Does that fact that we came all the way back to the GFI outlet mean that we don't need a separate junction box apart from the switch box ? Or is the box that the switch is in actually the junction box ?
Does the subpanel need a ground wire ?
Does the outlet need a ground wire ?
Does the light switch box need a ground wire?

I realize these are simple questions but I don't like to take anything for granted when it comes to safety and I have no concerns at all about appearing ignorant (I freely admit it ! :D )

Thanks again everyone for your gracious help !
 
Bumping to see if anyone is willing to have a crack at this.

Heat wave here in San Diego.

I'm going to get some #8 copper wire for the bonding and take it back to the subpanel. Also ground the subpanel. New pump etc. will also be bonded back to subpanel. That's my plan anyway.

:D


 
About bonding (it is different from grounding):
Bond pump to pool structure. Bonding will connect all metal parts within and around the pool with a continuous
wire. Bonding reduces the risk of a current passing between bonded metal objects, which could potentially
cause electrical shock if grounded or shorted. Reference NEC codes for all wiring standards including, but not
limited to, grounding, bonding and general wiring procedures.

albert436 said:
I'm going to get some #8 copper wire for the bonding and take it back to the subpanel. Also ground the subpanel. New pump etc. will also be bonded back to subpanel. That's my plan anyway.
Click to expand...
 
albert436 said:
light installed today, a few questions if you would indulge me.

-we found the bonding wire, here itis with some black electric tape and a yellow cap on it, otherwise you can see it is a solid copper wire. This photo also shows our new pvc conduit where it attaches to the old red brass conduit with a hose clamp. You can see the copper water line to the pool crossing just under all of this.
-i bought an led light with a 50' cord so we could take it all the way back to the new subpanel.
-we only had to dig down a few inches and it was easy to pull the cord through, so the metal pipe was left up to the level of a couple of inches below the water line.

A. The bonding wire, should it be #8? Should it be solid or is stranded ok ? either is fine. #8 is good.
b. Should it go all the way back to the subpanel also? (ie. Not "grounded" to anything else but same as the light.) yes, connect it to your equipment ground in the sub-panel.
c. Metal to pvc was tight fit and had to split end of pvc to start it onto metal. Is there anything we could put or spray around it to make sure it stays sealed for ever and ever ? Epoxy putty for example ? you could have heated the pvc and then formed it around the metal for a tight fit. Otherwise, you might try some kind of rubberized spray or liquid tape (find it near the electrical tape).

Next issue is the subpanel and boxes. I don't see a ground from the subpanel, although i know there is one on the main panel. There is a 110 gfi outlet coming from the subpanel. The light switch is taking power off of that gfi outlet. Here is a photo of the setup. (i don't see a ground wire from the gfi outlet either.) your sub-panel must have an equipment ground (bare, green) wire. Pull the panel around the breakers and have a look...it should be there. Just know that the ground and white neutral are separated in a sub-panel. They tie together at the main panel to your home.

does that fact that we came all the way back to the gfi outlet mean that we don't need a separate junction box apart from the switch box ? Or is the box that the switch is in actually the junction box ? don't understand your questions here.
does the subpanel need a ground wire ? absolutely.
Does the outlet need a ground wire ? absolutely.
does the light switch box need a ground wire? absolutely.

i realize these are simple questions but i don't like to take anything for granted when it comes to safety and i have no concerns at all about appearing ignorant (i freely admit it ! :d ) there are no bad questions when it comes to dealing with electricity.

thanks again everyone for your gracious help!
Click to expand...

you're welcome. :)
 
Thanks everyone.

The subpanel is indeed grounded back to the main.

I will need to read more closely through these replies.

A99 of course the GFI and switch boxes are grounded back to the subpanel, what I mean was whether they each needed a metal wire of their own going straight into the earth.

OK back to studying this, and thanks again !

Been busy at work, massive heat wave here, too hot to do much running around !
 
albert436 said:
Thanks everyone.

The subpanel is indeed grounded back to the main. Excellent.

I will need to read more closely through these replies.

A99 of course the GFI and switch boxes are grounded back to the subpanel, what I mean was whether they each needed a metal wire of their own going straight into the earth. No.

OK back to studying this, and thanks again !

Been busy at work, massive heat wave here, too hot to do much running around !
Click to expand...

I know something about heat, too. ;)
 
I have a SWG (salt) pool and can tell you that, once you get it dialed in, it couldn't be much easier to maintain. If you get there once a week, and spend 15-20 min on the pool, you can do everything that a "pool service" would do. With a SWG, even if you miss a week it's really no problem. You just empty the debris from skimmers, check chlorine and pH, and if needed adjust the dial on the control panel and/or add a little acid. About once a month you will do a full battery of tests on the water which takes and additional 10 min or so.

Some of the features that you mentioned, I have some experiance with. I'm using a Pentair VS 011018 pump, which has a fully programable onboard controller as well the ability to be controlled externally. I also have a solar heating system with panels equal to about 80% of the pool surface area. A fairly simple Pentair SolarTouch controller, allows me to just set a desired temp, when heat is available it opens the valve and speeds up the pump to heat the pool. All my pump, SWG and solar controls are pretty simple and preset, no complex automation system. My pump allows for tremendous flexibility as well as energy efficiency.

For cleaning the pool the simplest and most troublefree approach might be a suction side cleaner with a leaf canister. The PoolCleaner gets really high reviews. But to make it easy to just leave in place you will need a cleaner suction port, otherwise it needs to be connected through a skimmer.
 

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