- Jul 20, 2022
- 1,053
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
I used the BBB method in my last pool and since we decided to get a new pool with a SWG on it it's time to update what I used to do. The general consensus with a vinyl liner pool was CYA, PH, TA and FC was what we needed to worry about, CH not at all. I think back then SLAM was called something else but the name SLAM works well!! I have learned so far that I will need to use muriatic acid vs PH down due to the SWG and Borates is a new concept for me and found on here where to get Boric Acid. And of course there's salt! 
I will need to get new chemicals for my test kit to get starting numbers so these are generic questions.
My questions so far now are ... Do I need to worry about CH due to the SWG? I understand I don't want high CH but what about low?
Muriatic Acid (never used it and sounds scary to use) - Can I buy less than a gallon at a time? Not sure how much I'm going to need/use but would rather not have it laying around in the garage; looking at HD and Lowes I'm only seeing the gallon size. Once I get comfortable with using it things may be different.
Boric Acid doesn't seem too scary but I may be unaware of the issues. I do know everything can be problematic. Based on my readings here it looks like I'll add enough for 50 PPM let it fall and then adjust up the following year unless it falls a lot (I read start at 50 and it will fall to about 30 by the Fall) - is this correct?
I think salt is almost self explanatory. Read keep salt for an Aquatrol system around 3000 PPM. It also looks like I would just need to replace the salt from splash out and refills.
Adjusting for in range readings - the acids will drop the PH and borax/soda ash will raise the PH - since there will be a SWG cell in the water should I alternate acids and borax to keep the water from going too low and too high? Maybe start high and let the acids bring the water low? I know not to rely on the SWG to get me to the FC range from 0 so I was thinking about keeping the SWG off and use bleach until everything is in range. Once everything is added and in range, baking soda to bring up TA to desired range like in the olden days!
I appreciate the help.
Thanks!
I will need to get new chemicals for my test kit to get starting numbers so these are generic questions.
My questions so far now are ... Do I need to worry about CH due to the SWG? I understand I don't want high CH but what about low?
Muriatic Acid (never used it and sounds scary to use) - Can I buy less than a gallon at a time? Not sure how much I'm going to need/use but would rather not have it laying around in the garage; looking at HD and Lowes I'm only seeing the gallon size. Once I get comfortable with using it things may be different.
Boric Acid doesn't seem too scary but I may be unaware of the issues. I do know everything can be problematic. Based on my readings here it looks like I'll add enough for 50 PPM let it fall and then adjust up the following year unless it falls a lot (I read start at 50 and it will fall to about 30 by the Fall) - is this correct?
I think salt is almost self explanatory. Read keep salt for an Aquatrol system around 3000 PPM. It also looks like I would just need to replace the salt from splash out and refills.
Adjusting for in range readings - the acids will drop the PH and borax/soda ash will raise the PH - since there will be a SWG cell in the water should I alternate acids and borax to keep the water from going too low and too high? Maybe start high and let the acids bring the water low? I know not to rely on the SWG to get me to the FC range from 0 so I was thinking about keeping the SWG off and use bleach until everything is in range. Once everything is added and in range, baking soda to bring up TA to desired range like in the olden days!
I appreciate the help.
Thanks!