Updated/finished - Now it's my turn...help me pick out a new pump motor

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Re: Now it's my turn...help me pick out a new pump motor

Charlie, no issues with structural integrity when you bend it like that? For electrical applications, it kinda doesn't matter, but I wasn't sure how much it's affected by water pressure. I mean, we're never gonna see pressures higher than 25 or 30 psi, but still....
 
Re: Now it's my turn...help me pick out a new pump motor

Also, is there any fundamental difference between pool valves/Jandy valves, vs. just using PVC Ts and some PVC ball valves? (Other than product quality?) I'm looking at all of the materials needed to do this job, and two high quality pool valves will be 50% of the cost of the entire job.
 
Re: Now it's my turn...help me pick out a new pump motor

No problem with structural integrity as long as you let it cool on it's own. Don't rush the cooling. Schedule 40, 80, and code 200 PVC all have the same outside dimensions, so Jandy and other pool rated valves will fit. You don't want hardware store/big box valves unless they are specifically labeled for pool use. Sch 40 PVC would be what you want for this.

There is one other difference that shouldn't matter in this use: positive seal or not, and will be labeled as such. In this case, I don't think you would need the slightly higher cost of positive seal. All that means is that in the off position, there might be a small amount of seepage past the valve.

A pair of pool rated ball valves and a pressure T might be a little less costly that a 3-way on each end. I haven't compared the cost yet.
 
Re: Now it's my turn...help me pick out a new pump motor

As far as I can tell, if I'm smart about the disassembly, I can reuse all the ball valves I have in my system now. In which case, I'm only buying the Tees to make it work (plus the couplers and the 10' pipes themselves). So far the boss is ok with the idea of extra pipe, but I think I'm a little leery of attaching it to the uprights, so I'll probably go with your first idea of just running the pipes along the ground. Most of it will be covered by our deck, so I can live with the rest on the rocks in sight.

This is going to be a 75% teardown of the existing setup, so I'm planning on getting started on Monday.
 
Re: Now it's my turn...help me pick out a new pump motor

After doing a little research, I'm rethinking my plan.

I had shot down the idea of a replacement motor because I didn't want to buy a new single speed, and I thought I couldn't find a 2 speed that would run on 115v. Is there any reason I couldn't buy and use this one? If I dumped a pump and replumbed the whole pool, it would cost a little over $100 and a ton of my time. I would gladly spend an extra $75 or $80 to both save my time and get a lower speed option.
 
Re: Now it's my turn...help me pick out a new pump motor

You can't beat that deal with a stick (of pipe!). Since that would be the least expensive way for you to go, and it fits your dead pump, go for it.

You might even want to check if that deal is still there later, and get a spare for your other pump.
 
Re: Now it's my turn...help me pick out a new pump motor

Thanks for looking. I almost thought it was too good to be true, but it looks like it will work.

Found this as well. Looks like the same pump but cheaper.

I guess, since I've never looked for a replacement motor, what do I need to do to make sure it'll match. Frame, total HP (I have 3/4 and 1 hp impellers, so a 1hp pump should be fine), voltage....am I missing anything? I'm just paranoid that I'll buy something and because of a foolish oversight, it won't match.
 
Re: Now it's my turn...help me pick out a new pump motor

Check the current diameter of the motor. 56j comes in two sizes and not all pump motor supports work with both sizes. Plus this replacement has it's own motor support so you might need to remove the current motor support.
 
Re: Now it's my turn...help me pick out a new pump motor

48Y comes in two diameters as well although the smaller diameter has a square flange. While motor looks like yours?

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Re: Now it's my turn...help me pick out a new pump motor

Bottom one, and the motor I've got has a base welded to the bottom.

If I search for replacement motors for Hayward Power Flo Matrix, I'm getting two reference numbers. One starts with "SPX1510....", and the other one is SKU# BN37V1.

As far as I can tell, the BN37V1 motor is the one that I want, but I can't actually get to the pump and measure it for a couple of days.
 
Re: Now it's my turn...help me pick out a new pump motor

SPX1510 is the OEM part number. BN37V1 is the replacement.
 
Re: Now it's my turn...help me pick out a new pump motor

As for the switch, some do, some don't. You should be able to contact them and ask.
 
Re: Now it's my turn...help me pick out a new pump motor

Just finished everything up.

The BN37V1 was the correct motor. It fit perfectly, and the based that was welded to the body was a perfect match. None of the companies that were selling them included a power cord or switch, so I used the power cord from the old pump and found a SPDT switch that fit the old cover from Grainger (seriously, those guys have everything).

On high, I'm getting ~14 psi, and on low I'm running around 3psi. I wish I had an AC ammeter so I could see what the power consumption is, because that thing is running nearly silent.

Just to finish off the pump theory discussion...I understand why slow, "weak" flow is better for filtration. My question is, why is slow weak flow bad with high PSI but good with low PSI? Is it simply because when the filter is clogged, there is very low flow due to blockage, vs when you have low flow and low PSI, you're getting low flow but good filtration because of the water speed through the media? And then I assume that from a power consumption standpoint, the running pump/low flow/high psi/clogged filter situation is extraordinarily energy inefficient?
 
Low flow rate caused by high head loss is energy inefficient. Low flow rate cause by low RPM, is energy efficient. In order for full speed to have the same flow rate as low speed, the head loss would need to be over 6x higher on a typical pump. But the energy consumption would still be close to 4x low speed. So yes, very inefficient.
 
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