Update on DIY build in TN (More Pics/Questions)

[janthony]

Thank goodness for this website! I am getting closer to my backyard dream and hope some of you experts can help me to the finish line. If I can finish by May 1st it will have been an 8 month project. I am currently almost ready to start installing pavers. I first have to finish 20" tall planter walls at each deep end corner that will have 12" sheer falls into pool. These will also have propane fire bowls in them eventually. I am also ready to plumb my equipment and start moving some water, which is good since the liner has been in since last October/November. Here are my questions along with some pics of the project. Again thanks for any help and advice. I am a pool newbie so feel free to be brutally honest.

1. Do you see any changes I should make to my plumbing schematic? I have a (trichlor) puck chlorinator that I plan to plumb even though I plan to use it only when out of town or otherwise unable to control FC with bleach. If I ever add a salt system, will the cell plumb in where the puck chlorinator is?

2. Does anyone see any reason not to finish filling and start up the pump after I have everything plumbed? All equipment is inside, but we are still having below freezing nights in TN. I'd really like to test everything before installing 2000 sq. ft. of pavers if you know what I mean. I also worry about some 70 deg day temps causing algae soon as well.

3. To everyone that reads this and already has a pool-What is the one thing that you regret not doing when you built yours?

Now here's some progress pics. More when I plumb and lay pavers!

 

[swimcmp]

Traveling through Tennessee and spent the night in Clarksville. The only change I would recommend is make your suction manifold so each has a valve. Very nice build.

 

[head gamez]

I regret not doing the autofill!

 

[head gamez]

BTW.... I like that liner. We went with tan as well.

 

[janthony]

Traveling through Tennessee and spent the night in Clarksville. The only change I would recommend is make your suction manifold so each has a valve. Very nice build.

With the way that I have the (2) 3-way valves can't I isolate all three suction lines? What are the benefits to adding ball valves as well as the 3-ways?

 

[rhumbaclave]

I used the Home Depot/Lowes Ball Valves for my build last year. I completely regretted it. They leaked on the suction side and the one for the slide was very hard to turn(not kid friendly). Two handles broke.(mine were in the sun) Needless to say, I am replacing them all with pentair 2 way valves this spring. Others may have had good success but thought I would share my experience with you.

 

[jkurl]

I think k I would have added a 2nd skimmer and not went w/ the jandy pda system. That thing is slow to respond.

Oh by the way I am a big TTU fan & boo to the governors :lol:

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

 

[gordiec]

1. Consider adding a union in the waste line close to the multi-port valve. It will make it easier to remove the MPV when the time comes to service the filter.
2. Are the check valves necessary? Especially the one at the suction of the pump. I am not an expert, just asking...
3. I agree with rhumbaclave about the Home Depot/Lowes ball valves. My builder put in similar valves (before I knew better) and I ended up replacing them within a year or two.
4. Personally I would go with the salt system now. You do have to lay out a chunk of change up front, but it sure is convenient!

Looks like it is going to be an awesome setup!

 

[keithw]

Are you planning on an pressure side automatic pool cleaner like the Polaris 360? If so you would want a valve each of the returns so that you can reduce flow to each to push more through the cleaner.

 

[janthony]

1. Consider adding a union in the waste line close to the multi-port valve. It will make it easier to remove the MPV when the time comes to service the filter.
2. Are the check valves necessary? Especially the one at the suction of the pump. I am not an expert, just asking...
3. I agree with rhumbaclave about the Home Depot/Lowes ball valves. My builder put in similar valves (before I knew better) and I ended up replacing them within a year or two.
4. Personally I would go with the salt system now. You do have to lay out a chunk of change up front, but it sure is convenient!

Looks like it is going to be an awesome setup!

Thanks for the input. You are right on the check valves. After researching, I learned that it isn't necessary to keep pump from losing prime and would make winterizing harder. I will also move the other return check valve to replace the ball valve coming from the heater.
The salt system still scares me a little. All I hear from users are great reviews, but the so called "experts" warn me about terrible corrosion issues. Have you seen any rust or corrosion problems?

 

[janthony]

Are you planning on an pressure side automatic pool cleaner like the Polaris 360? If so you would want a valve each of the returns so that you can reduce flow to each to push more through the cleaner.

No pressure cleaner. I plan to get a robot when I can afford it. Until then it'll be a brush and manual vac. I seem to have blown my budget and running outta money fast. Now I am trying to prioritize necessities and worry about cleaners, covers, automation, when I can afford.

 

[msumoose]

Too late now, but is there a drain in the pump house floor? Might be useful when cleaning sand/draining for winter/etc.

The pool can be started now no problem. If you have a big cold snap you can put a 100 watt light in the room to keep it warm.

Ditto on the valves. Use the jandy style. Also, plumb in unions EVERYWHERE so you can get to maintenance easier. That is my #1 peton peeve when I work on a pool...you have to cut and recut and add slip fits

 

[janthony]

Too late now, but is there a drain in the pump house floor? Might be useful when cleaning sand/draining for winter/etc.

The pool can be started now no problem. If you have a big cold snap you can put a 100 watt light in the room to keep it warm.

Ditto on the valves. Use the jandy style. Also, plumb in unions EVERYWHERE so you can get to maintenance easier. That is my #1 peton peeve when I work on a pool...you have to cut and recut and add slip fits

Yes I did put a drain in the floor. I also tied my backwash line into it as well. Thanks for the help. Since you must see lots of pools, what's your opinion on salt setups being corrosive enough to cause problems?

 

[msumoose]

About the same as straight chlorine. I always suggest that a anode is added, and the bonding system is tied to it. The bonding system will be your biggest ally in preventing corrosion. Pool Tool is the best IMHO...but others will work.

 

[janthony]

About the same as straight chlorine. I always suggest that a anode is added, and the bonding system is tied to it. The bonding system will be your biggest ally in preventing corrosion. Pool Tool is the best IMHO...but others will work.

I looked these up and like the idea. Would you plumb it in or use the skimmer plates? The only way I can tie it to the bonding is to plumb it in permanantly. Unfortunately they don't sell direct so I'll have to find the closest distributor.

 

[msumoose]

http://www.pooltool.com/anodes.html

I would use one of the top 3 at a minimum. If you just drop a block of zinc in your skimmimer, that is only marginally better than nothing, because it is not directly attached to the voltage differential. The amount of voltage that we are talking could be lots (1-5 volts) or just millivolts. Either way, having one of the anodes attached to the bonding system is the best way to get directly to the source of the differential.

 

[gordiec]

The salt system still scares me a little. All I hear from users are great reviews, but the so called "experts" warn me about terrible corrosion issues. Have you seen any rust or corrosion problems?

Our pool and SWG are four years old and I have not had any rust or corrosion problems. We have a concrete pool deck, so I have no experience with how pavers hold up to the salt water that gets splashed out.

From what I've read here, it costs about the same in the long run whether you go with a manually chlorinated pool or a SWG. Obviously you do have to pay for the SWG up front, and if something happens to it that requires a major repair the number game changes in favor of the manually dosed pool. But it is very convenient and if you plan for it now (an extra breaker for power and a run of PVC for the cell and flow switch), you can always add it later should you decide to go that route.

I am very curious about the anode in the water. Does the zinc create water quality problems (like copper) after it is consumed?

 

[janthony]

So I went with the autopilot swg and a zinc anode that will plumb in and tie into bonding. Should be here tomorrow. Ill post some plumbing pics when done. Also got my four savi note lights in place. Can't wait to power those up. Hopefully I'll be pumping water by this weekend. I pray for no leaks!

 

[gordiec]

Congrats!

There is an article on SWG water balance in the pool school that has some good info in it. Be sure to turn the SWG off when you add the salt and while the salt and water are mixing (overnight I think).

 

[janthony]

Congrats!

There is an article on SWG water balance in the pool school that has some good info in it. Be sure to turn the SWG off when you add the salt and while the salt and water are mixing (overnight I think).

Thanks. Where and what kind of salt? I'm sure they sell "pool salt" and tell you it is special, but I say salt is salt right? Where can I find it bulk? Pool calc says I need 884 lbs! Do i just walk around pool adding slowly and brush to mix?