Unusual heater behavior - do bombs make you uneasy?

bradgray

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In The Industry
Jun 16, 2021
610
St. George, UT
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16000
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Plaster
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Liquid Chlorine
We had a diagnostic on Monday that ended up falling outside the norm. Heater failures tend to be common and usually consistent, but sometimes they'll make us work for a diagnoses.

Client had a 3.5 yr old MasterTemp 400. Has been running fine for years. No repairs needed. Recently reported it was not holding temp. We sent a tech to diagnose and the report was that the heater would initiate and fire as expected, but after roughly 60 seconds, would begin to 'sputter'. A better description would be the flame would audibly put out, only to reignite 0.5-1 second later, and repeat rapidly. After doing this 5-7 times, the heater would then exhibit signs of boiling in the manifold.

Couple quick points of clarity: the flame was unquestionably being extinguished, and then reigniting rapidly. It was not any more violent than when the heater ignites normally. Though as you'd expect, it was more violent in general because it was doing this in rapid succession. And second, the ruckus in the manifold always followed the combustion issue. Never before.

To start, we softly ruled out an issue with all items within manifold since it was always secondary. Ignitor was fine. Blower orifices clear. ICM looked good. No water in combustion chamber. Wiring intact.
Began to suspect either the gas supply was tainted with water or air, or we had a hole in the flame holder. Weren't looking forward to removing the blower to check and last time we found a hole in the flame holder, we had what you'd expect - a much more violent ignition of the escaped fuel. That heater scared us silly - natural gas bombs are rude.

But that was not the behavior this time.

Had the tech shut it down until we could reconvene.

Fast forward to yesterday and I went out myself to dig deeper. Fired heater up to monitor the behavior, figuring I may take note of queues he missed. Heater initiated and ran for about 30 seconds and threw a classic E05. I was immediately annoyed and figured it was a result of the seizures from the day before and reset it with the same result. Monitored the sensor readout and instant 40. Annoyance grew, but chalked it up to coincidence and replaced to get back on track for what I came to do - the diagnostic.

New SFS: heater fired and ran as expected. I stood waiting for it to stumble after the first few minutes. Except it didn't.
I was highly skeptical the issue was resolved so I stayed and watched - for over 30 minutes. No issue returned.

At this point, I'm still skeptical the issue has been solved. When an SFS reads a temp the PCB doesn't like, the heater enters shut down and throws a code. It should not extinguish flame and then immediately reignite in rapid sequence. I'm not convinced the SFS could have been the issue. But I'm open to the possibility under extenuating circumstances. I've done this enough to know as soon as you think you're an expert, the universe will prove you're not.

All that said, I'm more of the opinion it may have been a gas supply issue now resolved, or an issue that will reappear again when circumstances are right. Perhaps after extended duty.
As of now - 16 hours later, a recurrence has not been reported. So we assume it's still running.

I'm open to any spaghetti you'd like to throw on the wall. At this point I have a few globs of my own waiting to fall.
 
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Monitor the Stack Flue Temperature to see if it goes to a steady and consistent level in the good range.

Verify the gas pressure at inlet static and dynamic.

You can do a manifold gas pressure, but this is rarely worthwhile.

Check the Flame Current.

Watch the LED indicators for any sign of error.

Watch the water temp reading to make sure that it is not jumping around.

Check the gas usage at the meter to verify proper gas usage.


The following are the LEDs:

  1. .....PS (Pressure Switch)
  2. .....HLS (High Limit Switch)
  3. .....SFS (Stack Flue Sensor)
  4. .....AFS (Air Flow Switch)
  5. .....AGS (Automatic Gas Shutoff).
  6. .....Service System
  7. .....Thermistor
  8. .....Heating
  9. .....Pool On
  10. ...Spa On
  11. ...Service Heater.

Exhaust Gas Temperature.​

While running, press and hold the On button to display the exhaust temperature (Older Models).

The new models use the Menu to get the SFS.

Here is what the normal exhaust temperature should be:

  • Below 250 degrees...very low
  • 250 to 290 ..................low
  • 290 to 350.................acceptable
  • 350 to 480 ..................high
  • Above 480...................error/shutdown.
Testing the Flame Sense Circuit.

The Fenwal has two test points for flame current FC+ and FC-. Flame current is the current that passes through the flame from sensor to ground.

The best way to measure the flame sense current is with a true RMS meter. Measure the current with a good true rms meter that can measure dc current in the microamp range.

To measure flame current, connect a True RMS or analog DC micro-ammeter to the FC+ and FC- terminals. Readings should be 1.0 µA DC or higher.

If the meter reads negative or below "0" on scale, meter leads are reversed. Reconnect leads with proper polarity.

If you don't have a RMS meter you can just test for voltage between FC+ and FC- terminals to confirm if you have flame sense.

Each micro-amp of flame current produces 1.0 VDC. For example, 2.6 VDC equates to 2.6 µA.

Voltage is an indirect indication but easier to do with typical DIY equipment.

But it's still very difficult to measure unless you make up some pin wires to clip your voltmeter to.

Or you can order some insulated micro clips for the test.

The reading should be 3-8 volts and this corresponds to the millionth's of an amp signal your flame sense signal should reading.

If you try to check this be very careful since you can easily short the 24 vac circuit which can blow the transformer before the 2 amp fuse blows.

When not operating, the flame current should read 0 volts dc and 0 microamps dc. DC amps and voltage should be zero when there is no flame.

When there is a flame, there are ions in the flame that can carry current from the flame sensor to the burner and then through the ground back to the Fenwal.

This electro-chemical principle is used for flame detection in most newer gas heaters because it has proven reliable and safe since it detects an actual flame rather than the technique of measuring temperature to infer a flame used in older heaters.

The current mostly goes in one direction, so it's "rectified" from ac to dc.

This is called "flame rectification" and it's how the Fenwal verifies that the burners actually light when the gas valve opens.

If the Fenwal detects current when the gas valve is closed, the Fenwal determines that there is an error and refuses to operate.
 
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Check the thermal Regulator and the internal bypass.

Is there an external bypass?

What is the flow rate?

Can you check the temperature differential from inlet to outlet?
 
I'm more of the opinion it may have been a gas supply issue now resolved
A gas supply issue does not just resolve of its own accord.

Maybe the meter is too small and there is other equipment running and causing intermittent pressure drops?

What is the total house gas demand?

What is the meter size?

Is the pressure 2 psi or low pressure (7" w.c)?

What is the line diameter and length?

Is there a regulator near the heater?
 
Hi James. As per usual, I appreciate your thorough suggestions.
As you know we are very familiar with diagnostic processes. I was merely musing at the magic of a SFS thus far in this case.

We will return and do additional diagnostics if the behavior returns. And will report if we have additional findings.

When I referenced a gas supply issue, I was referring to water in the gas line. The home is a rental and there was an issue with the kitchen burners last weekend. Could have been user error, as it commonly is, but we suspect there may have been work done on the lines somewhere in the neighborhood. There is active construction in the area.
 
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Based on the reported behavior, I would not be comfortable with not identifying the exact cause of the problem.

Problems like this are caused by some sort of defect somewhere and the defect will not just clear up on its own in most cases.

Maybe it was a temporary gas pressure or gas line contamination, but I think that I would want to be more sure.
 
Followed up with the client this evening. Heater still running without recurrence. Over 7 hours logged runtime in that span.

I've rarely had an unsolved issue stay aloof for that long.

Still bemused at the possibility of a stack flue being the source of prior behavior.
 
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