Two Speed Hayward pump making noise and not starting on high speed

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stephenson said:
OK - so, pulled end cover - here's photo of the cap in there.

Also pulled the top capacitor and tested with Ohm meter - from C to Fan get quick high reading, then to open, and from C to Herm get open only (no high at all). I believe this means the Fan side is good - and this is the 10 uF Low Speed portion of the cap - and, the open with no movement on the Herm side means the High Speed portion of the cap is bad?

Reconnected all and works as before - can get High Speed, but only after getting it running on Low Speed and quickly shifting.

I ordered the cap from above - will check back in when receive it.
Click to expand...
Here is a picture of my 2 speed Hayward if this helps. Note the relay...is yours similar?
 

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The blue dot is the relay.

The green dot is the centrifugal switch contacts.
The red dot is the wiring with wire nuts.

Check the centrifugal switch to make sure that the contacts are clean.

Maybe redo the wiring to clean it up some.

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Right … does the relay control both the low and high speed with same switching action? ie if low speed works, and high speed can be made to happen by starting low speed then switching to high speed with the control button, could the relay be at fault?

Contacts look good on the centrifugal switch - if the motor can be coaxed into high by starting in low, it would not seem like this switch could be the issue?
 
I believe the relay is used to rearrange the starter winding from 2 pole to a 4 pole configuration. Failure of the relay is consistent with starting on low speed but not high speed. So definitely that could be the source of the problem. You should be able to find one online if you want to try to replace it.

Theoretically, that motor should start without the start capacitor because it has run capacitors. The start capacitor just gives it more starting torque. I am not sure why they bothered with the start capacitor and didn't just design the motor to be a dual speed PSC motor.
 
Yes but also the starter windings need to change from 2 pole to 4 pole unless they have two separate starter windings which would be more expensive to produce. So it is more likely that there is a single 4 pole starter winding that is reconfigured for 2 poles when on high speed.
 

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I think they could have made it much simpler with less parts and higher reliability. Although these are now obsolete so it is probably moot.
 
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The relay has mounting screws under the end cap and would require removing motor housing through bolts . Through bolts freeze in place with age and i would leave them alone if they won't budge. I would leave the bad relay in place ,find a new location for the new relay and wire accordingly.
 
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