Two question thread

lsurefugee

Gold Supporter
Jun 21, 2023
42
Baton Rouge, LA
Pool Size
15000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
1. First question has to do with plaster. I have my own theory on this one, which is most likely my fault. Since using TFP, haven’t had an ounce of trouble maintaining sanitation levels. One part of my plaster (deep in) is a little smoother than other parts. I have no signs of algae and pass OCLT. That area is where I slowly pour MA to balance out pH over return jet. I haven’t brushed routinely after pouring MA until I’ve read your practice of brushing after. Could this be the reason ? Or just part of plaster cure process(almost 2 years now)

2. I added borates this year try and maintain pH creep from SWG and high fill TA. Also,
To help scale on SWG. As you all have stated, I’ve need more MA to maintain pH. I don’t plan on using borates again because of more MA use. I have borate strips and last level seemed less than 30. How long should I suspect this to hang around? I know there are many factors determining this.

Thanks.
 
If ma has pooled on the plaster it is possible that it caused damage.
I like to brush with one hand and pour with the other when dosing acid or liquid chlorine to ensure it gets dispersed quickly.

What is your TA?
Getting that as low as 50/60 is your best bet for controlling ph rise frequency.
We recommend that you get it lowered to 50/60 range if possible before adding borates for the reason you mentioned.
Along with reducing the run time of any water features that cause aeration.
Borates are just like salt, ch, & cya.
They are reduced through water exchange.
ie- If you want 50% less borates you would replace 50% of the water.
 
If ma has pooled on the plaster it is possible that it caused damage.
I like to brush with one hand and pour with the other when dosing acid or liquid chlorine to ensure it gets dispersed quickly.

What is your TA?
Getting that as low as 50/60 is your best bet for controlling ph rise frequency.
We recommend that you get it lowered to 50/60 range if possible before adding borates for the reason you mentioned.
Along with reducing the run time of any water features that cause aeration.
Borates are just like salt, ch, & cya.
They are reduced through water exchange.
ie- If you want 50% less borates you would replace 50% of the water.
I recently started brushing after pouring MA.
Pencil thin over return. I’ll make it a permanent part of my process.

Fill water TA - 120. South LA with lots of heat and evaporation. Love when it rains to provide water without needing to use source water with high TA but very sporadic. May rain heavy for a week then may go a week or two without much. Summer is unpredictable except for the heat.
 
Work on actively lowering your ta.
My fill water ta is 110 & once I get it lowered to 50/60 in the pool & hot tub it stays that way.
With newish plaster the ph is going to rise but it should eventually settle down some.

 
I have battled rising pH in my less than 1 year old plaster pool. I also run my spa spillover 24/7 so that clearly is a contributing factor. Following the advice here I first drove my TA down to 60 and my pH stayed in range for 3 maybe 4 days. Next I lowered TA to 50 and was surprised to see that pH stayed in range for 9 to 11 days! When I say “in range”, for me, I target a CSI from about -0.4 and let it rise to 0.00. I try not to let it go positive.
 
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I try to keep the TA as low as possible but when we have a stretch of 110+ days without rain, using the fill water with high TA pushes me back up quickly. I have an autofill I turned off for this reason. It feels as though I’m losing this battle constantly due to high temps and evaporation. I can get the best handle on TA when it rains because I’m not dependent on our city water to replace evaporation losses. I really don’t mind adding MA twice a week, as I’ve become accustomed to it. Borates definitely did not help at all IMO to help with pH creep
 
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