Trying to SLAM a salt water pool

[proavia]

Not 3-5... 5ppm per day until the test kit arrives.

Use PoolMath
Put in your pool volume - in gallons
Look at Effects of adding from the hamburger menu

 

[ryuken83]

I think we need to go a step back here. First thing you need is a proper test kit: Test Kits Compared. We generally recommend the TF-Pro.

Until your kit arrives keep adding 3ppm worth of liquid chlorine per day. Once you have your kit, run all the tests from the kit and post the results in the form
FC
CC
pH
CYA
TA
CH
Water temperature

Then we take it from there.

WIthout a known CYA you won't know the correct SLAM level . And without the FAS/DPD chlorine test that is in the recommended test kits you will not be able to accurately test FC at the required levels.

Have you ever used Trichlor or Dichlor to add chlorine? Those two increase CYA levels. Calcium Hypochlorite and liquid chlorine don't. But Cal Hypo increases calcium levels which can lead to scaling eventually. That's why we recommend to only chlorinate with liquid chlorine or a salt water chlorine generator. A SLAM should be done with liquid chlorine, SWG turned off.

CYA is best added on its own to a defined level.

FC-4
CC-1
TA-70
CYA-20
CH-375

 

[PoolStored]

Raise your CYA to 30, and start the slam as if your CYA is 30, no need to wait for it to disolve.

Test and replenish FC every couple of hours if you can.

Use a 10ml sample for your FC testing. Each drop is .5. This will save reagent.

Use pool math to tell you how much clorine to add to get from your test value back to slam value.

Scrub everything.

 

[Newdude]

Not 3-5... 5ppm per day until the test kit arrives

You said 5 and mgtfp said 3. So OP was asking about that.

It's a tricky situation in the early season as there isn't much UV loss yet, so the appropriate add should be lower, (3) but there's also algae that will chew through it so the 5 recommendation is likely also ok. We all have our way of seeing it and personally I'm always torn down the middle.


*providing a test kit comes soon. If it's weeks out, it could be an issue.

 

[ryuken83]

You said 5 and mgtfp said 3. So OP was asking about that.

It's a tricky situation in the early season as there isn't much UV loss yet, so the appropriate add should be lower, (3) but there's also algae that will chew through it so the 5 recommendation is likely also ok. We all have our way of seeing it and personally I'm always torn down the middle.


*providing a test kit comes soon. If it's weeks out, it could be an issue.

One last question. The video says the first thing to do is lower pH and THEN start the slam. From what everyone has said, it seems I can just worry about CYA first, and then get the FC back to normal. So just follow y’all’s advice? Or do the ph lowering and then start.

 

[PoolStored]

Lower your Ph to 7.2-7.5 and go. Print out the slam instructions and keep them with you.

Follow them.

 

[mgtfp]

Making sure that pH is in the low 7s before starting a SLAM is important. There are multiple reasons, but I don't want to distract from your main concern, which is clearing your pool.

Just one note: Keep in mind that the pH test starts to become unreliable above FC 10. Around 10, the pH indicator starts to turn slowly purplish-red just from the interaction with chlorine, but the further above 10 you are, the faster this happens until the test is entirely useless.

 

[ryuken83]

Question for the board. How exactly do you read this chlorine test cylinder? I’m looking at the color and to me it appears to be brighter than 3 but less than 5. The Br is bromine so that can be ignored. Or am I missing something here?

 

[Newdude]

How exactly do you read this chlorine test cylinder?

You don't.

If you did, the accuracy is terrible per Taylor's own say so. And they don't even list a tolerance above 5, claiming it's simply unreliable.

So we use it to occasionally test the presence of chlorine instead of a direct #. If it's good and taxi cab yellow, then it's probably 5+ and you're above minimum still.

Also, this is your fill line, before adding 5 drops.





Use the power FC test to get an actual # everyday. Once in a while if you just want a spot check that you have plenty of FC for today, go make sure the yellow is daaaaaaaark, or even orange. (10+)

 

[duraleigh]

Are you attempting to SLAM the pool? Do NOT use the comparator block for the chlorine test...........use the FAS/DPD chlorine test per the instructions.

 

[ryuken83]

Are you attempting to SLAM the pool? Do NOT use the comparator block for the chlorine test...........use the FAS/DPD chlorine test per the instructions.

Gotcha. Powder test only. Now from here on out the goal is to keep the chlorine high enough to pass the OCLT right?

 

[Mdragger88]

Gotcha. Powder test only. Now from here on out the goal is to keep the chlorine high enough to pass the OCLT right?

You want to keep the fc at slam level for your cya as often as possible until you pass ALL 3 end of slam criteria (one of which is the oclt).

Until your water is crystal clear with no algae dead or alive do not worry about the oclt.