Trying to get a handle on chemistry costs

[HermanTX]

So you completely ignore the FC level of 1 to 3ppm, as is promulgated just about everywhere on the Planet Earth except here.....? Instead of trying to keep it "exactly right," you deliberately get it up high, then after it declines to 1 or 2, you raise it back up again....

TFP has a different methodology than what the pool store teaches you.
Also, we do not put FC at 11ppm and let it drop to 1ppm. There are minimum levels of FC based on the CYA level of the water.

You mentioned in the original post you are trying to determine the cost to maintain your new pool. If you follow the pool store philosophy I can assure you they will convince you to use algaecides and other potions that will cost much more in the long run.

TFP provides an effective and proven way to maintain your pool at the lowest cost.

 

[sande005]

Just to restate, a little differently - using the chart here (or the PoolMath app), start with whatever your CYA level is. If we say, for example, it is 50, then you build up the FC to the 8 level. The minimum at that amount is 4. So you add enough again later to get back to 8, and never dip to as low as 4. That may take a day, or even a little less, for you in peak season.
The minimum is just that - but running that for any amount of time where you might dip lower does run the risk of algae. Many like to "run hot" as they say, and go above 8 (for that CYA), to either get through two days, or at least make sure they never get close to the minimum. With the CYA level, in this instance safe swimming can be done all the way up to 20 (SLAM level).

So yes, much higher than the old industry bromides. But backed up by chemistry, and not just rules of thumb.

If you download and use the PoolMath app, it has a section for "the effects of adding". Make an assumption about your current daily FC need (or use the 4-5 suggested above). You can then see how much of the different Cl chems you would need for that use. Then easy to do the math for daily cost, based on your local prices. Harder to guess what you need in the winter, or other non-peak times, but it will be less than that daily number. Sometimes a lot less.

Tabs are easy, and don't need the daily addition (once you figure out how much and when they do need to be replenished), but they continuously add CYA - so your target keeps moving up, until it is unsustainable. The pool goes green, and then you have to change the water. They run more expensive than liquid.

Calcium Chloride doesn't have CYA - but your CA levels will soar. It is finicky to add, and there are some risks in storage. And not any cheaper. And you'll have to get new water when the CA levels get too high.

There is buying magic pool store things (mineralizers, Baquacil, etc.) that will set you back a small fortune, and still are much less effective than liquid. Or even not effective at all.

So, one is left with lugging daily jugs of liquid. Cheapest by far, but the care and feeding of the pool can get to be a drag.

Not the news you may like to hear, but the solution IS the salt generator. The cash reserved for paying for building the pool may be all committed, but if there is any way to get it now or later, you would be strongly advised to try to get it done. THAT will solve your monthly cash flow and work load issues.

 

[sande005]

And, the next morning - a twinge because I was perhaps getting too zealous in the last post. My pool is bigger, and it came with the house. My season is April to Oct. But I spent multiple decades buying at the pool store and other places, trying to keep costs down (discount tabs, phUp at the discount store, real baking soda, etc.). Tablet feeders, "shock", algaecide, clarifiers, and all. This site helped me with some issues after I joined in 2018. I remained very skeptical, since it was so radically different. The pool was green on opening, green again on Memorial Day, green again on the 4th....etc. year after year.
Advice about a broken filter replacement AND lots of study about the SWCG got me to switch a year and a half ago, and go with the methods here completely. Haven't seen algae in that time, at all. Pool care went from many hours per week to about 45 min. a week. Old cost of $700+ per year in chems. Now looks to be about $100. Would be less if I didn't have to dump water due to winterization. And for a couple only, also on fixed income, all of that was a game changer. The talk of selling, or filling in the pool, has disappeared. So yes, I can get a little overboard about it all...

 

[Lilredrubi]

Have you tried to help guide your neighbors or do they disregard your help?

They absolutely refuse my help, ‘how can you, who has an above ground pool know how to care for an inground pool’ I have pointed them to this site over and over again. Last year when they did let me test their CYA it was 170 and I thought they were going to buy their own kit, but their pool guy talked them out of it. Oh well, I’m over here swimming everyday and they have another swamp

 

[Orion7319]

And, the next morning - a twinge because I was perhaps getting too zealous in the last post. My pool is bigger, and it came with the house. My season is April to Oct. But I spent multiple decades buying at the pool store and other places, trying to keep costs down (discount tabs, phUp at the discount store, real baking soda, etc.). Tablet feeders, "shock", algaecide, clarifiers, and all. This site helped me with some issues after I joined in 2018. I remained very skeptical, since it was so radically different. The pool was green on opening, green again on Memorial Day, green again on the 4th....etc. year after year.
Advice about a broken filter replacement AND lots of study about the SWCG got me to switch a year and a half ago, and go with the methods here completely. Haven't seen algae in that time, at all. Pool care went from many hours per week to about 45 min. a week. Old cost of $700+ per year in chems. Now looks to be about $100. Would be less if I didn't have to dump water due to winterization. And for a couple only, also on fixed income, all of that was a game changer. The talk of selling, or filling in the pool, has disappeared. So yes, I can get a little overboard about it all...

Yeah it saves a ton. I knew that these guys here knew about appropriate water chemistry from having kept all kinds of different aquariums for over 20 years or so. The pool store advise particularly on their recommended targets for TA and PH I always knew were unobtainable long term. It was apparent there was no knowledge of basic chemistry, just try and hit this target. I get the OPs skepticism about the high chlorine we run though. I mean the CDC barely acknowledges the relationship between CYA and chlorine levels at all. Except curiously in their guidelines for clearing up a fecal incident. In these incidents they want the CYA lower than 15ppm. This is the only case they seem to offer any CYA recommendations at all and they acknowledge here that the CYA has to be below 15ppm and the FC above 20ppm. I don’t know why they don’t have any other recommendations other than this. Also there are no turbidity testers that can even test CYA below 30. Apparently you have to use a very expensive meter to even check CYA this low.