Trying to change to BBB


Jun 30, 2010
We want to change over to BBB, from EZ Pool. It is supposed to oxidize, Floc, Condition, manage balance, control algae and inhibit calcium scaling. The only ingredient listed, however, is 1.6% copper sulphate. So, to start off, I needed another source of Algae control - I was almost out of 3" pucks, so I got a bucket at Walmart that has copper sulphate already in it.

We shocked the pool as soon as it was done filling with water, and either take a test in to the pool store or "dip" test it and call the results in every week. We have never been instructed to shock the pool since that first time. Have had the pool almost 6 weeks. I did buy a couple bags of Calcium hypochlorite though in anticipation of changing to BBB and needing to use it every week or two. I was reading the back of the Calcium Hypochlorite bag (after I got it home) and it says not to use it with copper based algaecides. Does that mean - just not to shock the pool when you have a puck with copper sulphate in the skimmer, or you can't use Calcium Hypochlorite at all if you have copper sulphate in the pool water ?
I have no idea what the "shock" we were given to use when we first filled the pool contained, but at that time had not added the EZ pool yet and therefore would not have had any copper in the water.

Also, all my water tests show zero cyanuric acid, and the pool man always crosses
it off the list of things that need added on my water test report. Why do you suppose that is ? Do they think the Trichlor pucks will eventually add enough that we don't need to, or ?

With the EZ Pool, they want Calcium Hardness 350-500. (for vinyl pool). Mine is
at 340 now and have been istructed to add another 1 1/2 lbs Calcium Chloride.
Since I want to change to BBB as soon as I can (almost out of EZ Pool , and not wanting to spend $60.00 on another 5 lb bucket) I don't really need the Calcium Hardness that high with the BBB method, Do I?

I also bought several bottles of Clorox, (probably shouldn't have got the new pucks)
but will need a seperate algaecide with it. What do you suggest?

I did buy a Leslie's "Total Pool Care DPD Test Kit" last weekend. Free and Total Chlorine, PH, Acid and Base Demand, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, Cyanuric Acid. Kind of expensive, $47. but I figure the pool man will quit doing free water tests when I quit buying his EZ Pool. It is alot easier to get an accurate reading on ph, alkalinity and hardness, However, when you are adding dropwise and swirling and counting, Do you HAVE to do it One drop at a time ?
If you know it is going to be at least a certain level, couldn't you add several drops at a time and then go to one at a time as you get near the end? Does that make any sense, or will that mess it up somehow?

I have been reading the BBB section, but would appreciate any hints on how to switch over, and what problems to look out for in the process. Thanks a bunch !

16' AG, 17" Hayward Dream line High Rate Sand Filter
Hayward Power-Flo LX 1 HP


Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Apr 17, 2010
East Texas
Where to start, where to start........First off------fire the pool man! Hire us! Keep the bucket of pucks for times you are out of town to maintain. Vinyl liner pools need NO calcium hardness. Don't add anything for that. If you're confident with that test kit fine; if not, buy one recommended here. Get as TRUE a reading of your CYA level as possible! Add bleach to the target level for your cya from the chart in pool school. (Couple parts extra won't hurt). Figure out how much to add using the pool calculator and your known gallon capacity. Get the FC level right, don't let it drop below minimum, and------------why would you need an algaecide? Shocking every week is a joke. Unless you go green, see some growth, or can't fix a CC level below 1 ppm-------there is no need to shock. Only thing pool stores probably sell more than pucks is shock of some sort. I've seen folks carry out CASES! Keep a gallon of muriatic acid on hand to keep your PH level in check.
Have fun, and welcome.
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